INFI current vs Old

number41 said:
I measure my edges electronically and they are exact.

I finish my edges on a 2000 grid ceramic stone. I have sharpened this knife 6.. 7 times and my other HR2 twice. Its how the steel performs. Currently ots at 21dps which is high. Any steel performs at this angle.

My question to Jerry Busse Jerry Busse is have they changed the steel or heat treat. Why so many reports of Busse chipping when the website says they have never chipped a edge ever.
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What exactly does your sharpening process look like? What stones are you using and how are you maintaining them. Are you burr sharpening or plateau sharpening? Does your edge shave in both directions?
 
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
What exactly does your sharpening process look like? What stones are you using and how are you maintaining them. Are you burr sharpening or plateau sharpening? Does your edge shave in both directions?
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Sharpen to a burr then slightly increase the angle to get rid of the burr. Then I end off by stropping.... if I still feel something on the Apex I pull the apex across a piece of wood and keep stropping till its crisp. Hairs jump off my arm in both directions.
 
number41 said:
Sharpen to a burr then slightly increase the angle to get rid of the burr. Then I end off by stropping.... if I still feel something on the Apex I pull the apex across a piece of wood and keep stropping till its crisp. Hairs jump off my arm in both directions.
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I'd advise against the strop, it tends to get clogged with metal and then you end up burnishing the apex which induces metal fatigue. Better solution would be to clean the surface of the Shapton once you reach a burr and then allow it to dry on the surface a bit and finish with edge leading strokes at a higher angle to microbevel after doing a few light passes at 2-3x the sharpening angle. I find Infi difficult to remove the burr on unless you do the high angle passes to minimize the burr.
 
In my experience with INFI, the only edge damage I've seen was with a trough raider after cutting an aluminum pole in half on concrete. The other time was a F-16 and let me explain....

See when I leave the house to split firewood, Theres a hug stump in my yard that you usually see in a lot of my pictures. When I carry a Busse out back, It gets thrown into the stump. Sometimes they stick, Other times they fly and stick into the earth. Its about a 20-25 yard throw so they hit HARD. The only knife to sustain edge damage was the F-16 after getting lodged in soil and whatever else was on the ground.

My Battle Saw on the other hand has been thrown countless times, Bounced, crashed, banged, flown tens of feet and landed blade first in soil, no damage.

tempImagepFYNjB.png
https://imgur.com/a/4Vz73UU

*Edit fixed the sound*
 
Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
I'd advise against the strop, it tends to get clogged with metal and then you end up burnishing the apex which induces metal fatigue. Better solution would be to clean the surface of the Shapton once you reach a burr and then allow it to dry on the surface a bit and finish with edge leading strokes at a higher angle to microbevel after doing a few light passes at 2-3x the sharpening angle. I find Infi difficult to remove the burr on unless you do the high angle passes to minimize the burr.
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Ok thanks fornthe advice, appreciate it. I will definitely test this.
 
Jack of All Blades said:
In my experience with INFI, the only edge damage I've seen was with a trough raider after cutting an aluminum pole in half on concrete. The other time was a F-16 and let me explain....

See when I leave the house to split firewood, Theres a hug stump in my yard that you usually see in a lot of my pictures. When I carry a Busse out back, It gets thrown into the stump. Sometimes they stick, Other times they fly and stick into the earth. Its about a 20-25 yard throw so they hit HARD. The only knife to sustain edge damage was the F-16 after getting lodged in soil and whatever else was on the ground.

My Battle Saw on the other hand has been thrown countless times, Bounced, crashed, banged, flown tens of feet and landed blade first in soil, no damage.

View attachment 2001893
https://imgur.com/a/4Vz73UU

*Edit fixed the sound*
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Aluminum is soft
 
number41 said:
Aluminum is soft
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Oh i know, Wasn't going to take it to a Steel pole and mash the edge on my new knife like another "Joe" we know lol. Just wanted to see what it could do with what I had laying around. Im also pretty certain the edge damage was from it cutting through to the concrete below. And by edge damage, I mean I could feel one spot with my finger nail where it dented the very edge.

FBD3CD11-DDAA-4B5C-B860-CAF4866B12E2-1.jpeg
 
One thing I have wondered about was the composition of my MOASK.

They were released in 2006(new gen) , but legend has it the blanks were cut out 10 years prior. The MOASK does preform a little differently that my other INFI choppers and is less prone to discoloration/rust, which does fall in line with reports of old gen infi.
 
I've seen Jerry Busse Jerry Busse dispute the A8Mod statement as well. Plus, if you start with A8, but start MODifying the composition, at what point is it no longer A8Mod, but something else entirely? (A purely philosophical and rhetorical question.)
The only thing that I've heard directly from Jerry, IIRC, was that INFI used to have cobalt in it, but doesn't now.
I don't have any old INFI. All new formula. But I've never had a problem with corrosion on it, except if it was CG that was stripped, and I didn't get all the carburization (?) off it. i've had that happen on two, a SAR 5 and my DS6. The SAR 5 eventually had to have the carb bead-blasted off it. I'm still struggling with the DS6.
 
number41 said:
Ok thanks fornthe advice, appreciate it. I will definitely test this.
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Cliff Stamp often argued that stropping yielded an edge which was heavily damaged (at the apex) and about on par with the lowest quality steel you could have a knife made from performance wise. The ironic part is stropping is so heavily argued for as maintaining or sharpening one expensive knives yet nobody ever seems to mention that it works in much the same way as a butchers steel on cheap, soft stainless to smear the edge to shape rather than cut it cleanly as an abrasive.
 
Old vs new INFI, I would say I prefer the older models. I like the original HR vs the HR2. Also like the ASH-1 vs ASH-2. With that being said, I wish they would just find the most popular knives (maybe like the top ten) and just make them permanent options to buy from the company. Unfortunately, the one knife they have seemed to have the longest run is the TGLB, and that’s the one knife I’m not really into. Now the anorexic FBM, I think could be a better option than the original. Won’t have an official opinion until mine finally gets her.

Lastly, no matter who the manufacturer is, I always put my own edge on the my knives. I did the same thing with the HR2 and it’s become my user knife around the property (it’s built like a beast), but the 2008 HR SE is my SHTF knife. Special note: I haven’t field tested it yet, but I think the Flak Jack could also be a great light weight camp knife.
 

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POINTMANDDT said:
Old vs new INFI, I would say I prefer the older models. I like the original HR vs the HR2. Also like the ASH-1 vs ASH-2. With that being said, I wish they would just find the most popular knives (maybe like the top ten) and just make them permanent options to buy from the company. Unfortunately, the one knife they have seemed to have the longest run is the TGLB, and that’s the one knife I’m not really into. Now the anorexic FBM, I think could be a better option than the original. Won’t have an official opinion until mine finally gets her.

Lastly, no matter who the manufacturer is, I always put my own edge on the my knives. I did the same thing with the HR2 and it’s become my user knife around the property (it’s built like a beast), but the 2008 HR SE is my SHTF knife. Special note: I haven’t field tested it yet, but I think the Flak Jack could also be a great light weight camp knife.
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Nice edge. What did you use?
 
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