INFI Kukri - attainable?

[PeterPHWS]

Thanks for the reply. Have you seen any KZ's with a flat grind? Seems to be so much more convenient

Edit: Out of curiosity, what would it cost to set up a belt sander for a novice learning to use one? I have zero to no experience of power tools Something along the lines of what's used in this vid: [youtube]eREokC4MPM0[/youtube]

They did at least one ... a Nuclear TTKZ which was done with a flat grind and double cut finish. The flat grind was necessary for the double cut finish to work ... a fully convex edge needs a satin finish if it is to be sharpened in a fully convex way ...

This flat ground model works as well as my TTKZ and my KZII ... so you are right ... this type of design does work well.

I did a re-profile job on my TTKZ modelling the shape from a NMFBM CG which is a thinner knife than the LE and which after stripping it and cleaning it up on a belt sander to a fully convex edge ... was at the time my very best chopper.

When you change the convex geometry to an appleseed shape as opposed to a tear drop shape the thinner lower section enables much greater penetration ...

If you look at the way the light catches the changes on the blade you can see the work done in this photo ...

To ensure you are removing metal where you want to it helps to coat the blade in marker lines and see where they erode and where they remain ...

You only want to remove the thickness behind the edge and leave the upper part unaffected so that when the blade sinks into the wood the upper section serves to open up the cut and allows the edge to bite deeper ... to do this on a belt sander I glued a strip of leather hide to the platten so that I could pressthe lower section of the knife into the platten without any "chatter" you can get of metal on metal ... and the smooth back of the belt fradually removes or shapes the leather to a curved shape whilst the grittier frontal belt removed metal from the knife ... the cost of these 1 x 30 belt sanders is relatively cheap ... check out a Harbour Freight ...

Once you have reprofiled the edge the TTKZ can compare in chopping performance and speed to a Forrest Axe ...

It can cut a deeper shallower cut into the tree and you are half way through the tree at the same time as you are swining an axe ...

The KZII took on board the edge profile comments from the release of the TTKZ but also other comments on handle design. The TTKZ handle is the best handle Busse has ever done for a chopping knife ... why they changed it on the KZII is such a shame ... this handle as Tim says can catch your wrist and allows your hand to slide when chopping ... it is just simply too big on the design side for most peoples hands and mine are pretty big ... for this reason I would advise getting the TTKZ handle and altering the grind rather than the KZII grind and altering the grip.

It can be done but you still have a grip design that can slide a bit ... I re-did the grip on mine and stripped it and took the edge down to where I had took the TTKZ to.

You don't have to do much removal on the KZII profile to get it able to sink right to the spine

The geometry on this one is more performance oriented but from the above pic you can see how much wider the handle is compared to the TTKZ grip

My KZII really needs some modified grips doing for it which bring in the locked in aspect of the grip to the dimensions of the TTKZ ... that is the next task in hand but it does chop well as is ...

Ultimately though the best Zilla I have is the Nuclear Zilla ... it is a fair bit lighter and still has the same power ... again I had to rework the edge ... but only because it came from the shop without taking the edge right to a pinnacle ... but this model is a lot more versatile and as you indicated in your question ... a lot more "ready to go" as a flat grind straight from the shop.

It can sink in to the spine no problem ...

and is versatile in that the Nuclear spine enables it to be used in a lot of different ways ... you can anchor the knife like a two headed axe and baton the log instead of the knife ...

But if I were to rank them in performance on just power alone ... the TTKZ does have the heaviest and most effective swing ... well worth doing the reprofile work on one

 

[FTR-14c]

An entry level 1x30 belt sander from Harbor Freight is under $50.00. Buy the belts on line and some cheap knives to practice with.
For me, once I got the hang of it there is no other way to sharpen or maintain an edge.

 

[pialia]

*awesome post*

Wow. Thank you for taking the time to make that post. I wouldn't dare reprofile a knife like the TTKZ on my own, though. I can't even remember the last time I operated a power tool I'm sure the folks at the custom shop could manage something should I pick up a TTKZ.

By the way, could you explain what the term "Nuclear" means in the context of Busse knives? I can make out the altered spine but that's about it. I've come across the term NMF a few times.

1x30/42 belt sanders seem to be pretty non-existant in Sweden... I dread to think what shipping of such an item would cost I'm planning on digging deeper into the subject and seeing what's available. I'm kind of intrigued by the idea of sitting in my basement working with a belt sander

It sounds like it will be worth the effort of customizing the TTKZ to make it pure excellence in the chopping department. I'm psyked

 

[PeterPHWS]

"Nuclear" as a term on knives from the custom shop indicates a serrated spine ... not to be confused with "Nuclear Meltdown" which as a term means the rounding of the spine and choil edges so that they are more comfortable in a choked up grip ...

I got my belt sander/grinder from B&Q which is a "DIY" hyper market store for tools over here in the UK ... I would expect that these type of shops also exist in Sweden somewhere ... where do you buy cordless drills and lawn mowers from ? Those sort of large shops are likely to do these in the wood work department ... they are more often used for wood than sharpening knives ...

Given that you are in Sweden it would make a lot of sense my selling you something as I have already paid the E.U. VAT Tax on importing mine ... we can take this to PM's perhaps ... I only really need one Zilla and my NTTKZ fits the bill here ... LOL ... it is about time I started to thin the herd ...

 

[pialia]

"Nuclear" as a term on knives from the custom shop indicates a serrated spine ... not to be confused with "Nuclear Meltdown" which as a term means the rounding of the spine and choil edges so that they are more comfortable in a choked up grip ...

I got my belt sander/grinder from B&Q which is a "DIY" hyper market store for tools over here in the UK ... I would expect that these type of shops also exist in Sweden somewhere ... where do you buy cordless drills and lawn mowers from ? Those sort of large shops are likely to do these in the wood work department ... they are more often used for wood than sharpening knives ...

Given that you are in Sweden it would make a lot of sense my selling you something as I have already paid the E.U. VAT Tax on importing mine ... we can take this to PM's perhaps ... I only really need one Zilla and my NTTKZ fits the bill here ... LOL ... it is about time I started to thin the herd ...

Again, thanks for clearing that up I plan on visiting a few shops tomorrow with hopes of finding a good DIY sander, if I can't find one perhaps the staff could recommend where I should be looking. This is one market where I am completely lost

This thinning of the herd is intriguing...

 

[Mrs. Major Kong]

Shannon, the other guys got it right, it's a War Boar which is the Busse Combat version (hence the nuclear top) of a karambit. This design Jerry did is very good for defensive concealed carry as it gives you a pretty devastating yet useful blade in a short overall length. Although the first reaction many American's would have at seeing it is that the design is useless, the inner edge is actually great for cutting down weeds/crops, peeling bark like a draw knife, gutting your next meal etc. as that is what they are mainly used for in the part of the world that the design originates from. The outer edge near the tip works decent for skinning if you hold it like this and work backwards.

Thanks, Tim. A picture is worth a thousand words because I could not visualize how you would use that knife. I can certainly see the uses now. Very cool!
Shannon

 

[resinguy]

An entry level 1x30 belt sander from Harbor Freight is under $50.00. Buy the belts on line and some cheap knives to practice with.
For me, once I got the hang of it there is no other way to sharpen or maintain an edge.

Agreed!

 

[dingy]

hi, peterPHWS, I like your mod , i have a Q , how do you feel when you did a full power Slashing Strike ? can the knife lock in your hand securly?

 

[David Brown]

The KZ TT looks so big in their tiny hands

 

[Bigfattyt]

I figured I might as well post the question in this thread - for those of you that lack belt sanders, how do you maintain the edge on your KZ/KZII? Do sharpening systems like edge pro and wicked edge do the trick or are the blades simply too big with too aggressive recurves? If you are using a system like the aforementioned, is it a problem sharpening the convex edge with them?

I use a narrow raised strop (home made strop bat). You can put sandpaper folded over it if you damage the edge in the re-curve portion.

That said, I also have a 1x30 belt sander, which I used to set the shoulder bevel when I re-profiled it.

I have the KZII.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Thanks for the reply. Have you seen any KZ's with a flat grind? Seems to be so much more convenient

Edit: Out of curiosity, what would it cost to set up a belt sander for a novice learning to use one? I have zero to no experience of power tools Something along the lines of what's used in this vid: [youtube]eREokC4MPM0[/youtube]

About 50 bucks. I got my 1/30 grinder combo 5 inch disk sander for $39 if I remember (though it might have even been $29). Makes convex sharpening so much easier. Though, I only really use it to re-profile, or if I get a bunch of rock rash, or dings in the blades. I have not had to use the belt sander yet on my infi, once the profile is set. But I have done some edge reworking on my Khukri machete, and tomahawks when they get all dinged up.

The KZ TT looks so big in their tiny hands

None of my pics of INFI are that cool DB. Your my kind of man.

 

[pialia]

About 50 bucks. I got my 1/30 grinder combo 5 inch disk sander for $39 if I remember (though it might have even been $29). Makes convex sharpening so much easier. Though, I only really use it to re-profile, or if I get a bunch of rock rash, or dings in the blades. I have not had to use the belt sander yet on my infi, once the profile is set. But I have done some edge reworking on my Khukri machete, and tomahawks when they get all dinged up.

Is stropping enough to get the edge back in shape even after dismantling a fair share of wood? Or do you use some other method to touch up even when there are no visible chips etc? I'm planning on paying my local hardware stores a visit, but after browsing through their webshops I'm not entirely hopeful. All of the belt sanders I could find are either hand held or built in such a way that sharpening knives on them, especially bigger, would be impossible. I have yet to find any stationary belt sander where the belt is actually free from a frame or something. It would seem that this is a requirement to sharpen a decent convex edge, I doubt there would be much convexing to speak of if I were to sharpen my knives on a sander with a wall behind the belt.

 

[Bigfattyt]

Is stropping enough to get the edge back in shape even after dismantling a fair share of wood? Or do you use some other method to touch up even when there are no visible chips etc? I'm planning on paying my local hardware stores a visit, but after browsing through their webshops I'm not entirely hopeful. All of the belt sanders I could find are either hand held or built in such a way that sharpening knives on them, especially bigger, would be impossible. I have yet to find any stationary belt sander where the belt is actually free from a frame or something. It would seem that this is a requirement to sharpen a decent convex edge, I doubt there would be much convexing to speak of if I were to sharpen my knives on a sander with a wall behind the belt.

Yes, stropping is enough. As long as your wood is pretty clean. I use a loaded strop with chromium oxide, so it is a bit more abrasive than a naked strop.

I have to say, though, hand stropping my big knives does take some elbow grease. You have to hold the whole weight of the knife.

If it is really dirty, pebbly, or sandy, you might need to go back to high grit sand paper.

 

[pialia]

Yes, stropping is enough. As long as your wood is pretty clean. I use a loaded strop with chromium oxide, so it is a bit more abrasive than a naked strop.

I have to say, though, hand stropping my big knives does take some elbow grease. You have to hold the whole weight of the knife.

If it is really dirty, pebbly, or sandy, you might need to go back to high grit sand paper.

I did some stropping on my HI khuk, it was as you say a bit different from stropping a Spyderco I figure once I get it dinged up a bit from use I'll probably just use my axe stone to get in back into shape. Funny thing about the belt sander... I actually went around to nearly 10 different businesses in town and inquired about one, people who have been in the business for 30+ years mind you, had never encountered a belt sander like so:

Everything that exists in Sweden is either hand held or:

Seems I'm going to have to ask my boss to stuff one in his shipping container the next time he's bringing stuff from the states if I want to get one. Seems incredibly odd.

 

[OldPhysics]

Some reviews with lots of pictures of the two major lines. I would go with the TTKZ, as long as your okay with a heavier khukuri. It's equivelant to a 20" ang khola, which is a bit bigger than most find comfortable. The KZII is a good knife, but the pommel swell can hit the wrist, it has a lot of sharp corners, and it's long straight handle doesn't give a completely solid grip in any one position.

With the KZII your probably looking at between 600-700$ usd, and for the TTKZ if you can find one for sale will go for between 650-900$, averaving around 825$.


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/756267-mwuahahaha
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/811689-KZ2-back-from-the-shop
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/855530-Custom-Shopped-TTKZ
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/869200-Camping-with-the-TTKZ
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...S-TTKZ-quick-comparison-(with-pics-and-video)

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/847972-KZ-TTKZ-or-KZII

This is the man to pay attention to.

Not that the others aren't good guys ... they are. But LVC is a serious enthusiast and a bit of an engineer.

Just saw Peter's post! That was a fun read!:thumbup:

 

[PeterPHWS]

hi, peterPHWS, I like your mod , i have a Q , how do you feel when you did a full power Slashing Strike ? can the knife lock in your hand securly?

Yes the knife can be secure ... but that is down to your grip .... the amount of use you go for in one session would'nt be as long and comfortable as with a TTKZ unless you added a lanyard for your wrist perhaps ... just to give that bit more security ... as I said in my post I hope to change the grips and do some which resemble the TTKZ's ... this will be a fun project ... first time I have done anything like this

 

[FTR-14c]

This thread has had me picking apart the handle on my KZII. The palm swell did feel a little blocky so I knocked the corners off a little at a time as I tried it
until my grip just melted into the handle. Then I blended it together. Now it feels wonderful. Also, I have never had a problem with the pommel hitting my wrist
as I use the first tube fastener for a lanyard hole rather than the one provided. Again, this keeps me in the sweet spot and from sliding around or back.
Thanks to this thread, for me, my KZII is now all it can be which is more than acceptable.

Rick

 

[pialia]

This thread has had me picking apart the handle on my KZII. The palm swell did feel a little blocky so I knocked the corners off a little at a time as I tried it
until my grip just melted into the handle. Then I blended it together. Now it feels wonderful. Also, I have never had a problem with the pommel hitting my wrist
as I use the first tube fastener for a lanyard hole rather than the one provided. Again, this keeps me in the sweet spot and from sliding around or back.
Thanks to this thread, for me, my KZII is now all it can be which is more than acceptable.

Rick

As always, I'm glad my lack of knowledge could be of service to others It sure does feel like we have some excellent information in this thread and I had a great time picking all of your brains!

Huge

to all you HOGS willing to help me out.

I'm off to Italy for the week, but when I get back it shan't be long before I have a TTKZ in my hands All thanks to this thread! Minus the Italy part.

Pia.

 

[Jroden5446]

Hope you don't mind if I add this video here, didn't really want to start a whole new thread yet, this thread inspired me to finally go and thin down the primary grind ( although I don't think these newer TT versions are as bad as the originals) just a quick test run

[video=youtube_share;z_sUgzHieHQ]http://youtu.be/z_sUgzHieHQ[/video]

 

[PeterPHWS]

Whatever you did ... it worked :thumbup: Some serious depth on those chops ... you waltzed through that 4x2 ...