Inlay Sebenza warping falling out!!

Blue Puma said:
I guess those scratches on the blade are just bad photography.

And I must be in the minority of people who don't use a fine blade to punch through metal.

I use all my knives. I also don't take advice or instructions from my employees about using my expensive knives as hole punches.
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I can’t believe people get so butt hurt over someone using a expensive knife. Guess I should never shoot my Colt SAA, whoops, too late already have 200 round though it or my S&W model 29
 
There probably are certain woods that would hold up better under these conditions than others, but if you wanted to stay with an inlay and play it safe the micarta should not be a problem. There should be no warping or cracking and IMO that is what is effecting the tape, so you should be good to go. I have never had any problems with my micarta inlays.
 
Honda137 said:
I can’t believe people get so butt hurt over someone using a expensive knife. Guess I should never shoot my Colt SAA, whoops, too late already have 200 round though it or my S&W model 29
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It is your knife and your choice, but it doesn't seem to be working out well in this situation, so some form of adjustment may be needed. Even if CRK will fix them under warranty the time and expense of sending them in makes that a poor long term solution IMO. If its a one time problem-no big deal, but sounds like it already is a 2 time problem.
 
Honda137 said:
You can see moisture between the handles and the inlay closest to the blade is swelling near the pivot it’s not much just barely noticeable
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I carry mine in a pocket slip, the whole slip gets wet with sweat, pull the knife out and it's covered dew where it's not contacting the slip. I've never had any issues with rust forming. On the plain slabs, the dew will reside on the blade. That's the reason I don't carry a wood inlay this time of year, besides, micarta might be my favorite inlay.

It's obvious that not all wood will stabilize in the same manner and be suitable for any environment. Over the years of doing stupid things, which I didn't know was stupid until after the fact, I've learned to use my tools for their intended use. It's either cost me money or injury. I use to think using a flat headed screw driver for a chisel was no big deal, until it broke and a piece embedded in my forearm. I had to dig that sucker out.
Now, I tend to err to the safe side and use the correct tools. It just pains me to see someone use a tool for a job and it not be the right one, I have flash backs of my own ignorance and know what could happen. And occasionally when it does, saying "I told you so" really doesn't bring a smile to my face anymore.
 
Honda, I doubted you until you showed the pics and said that it was spalted beech...

CRK didn't do their homework on the spalted beech... I just cut and split up a log of beech for firewood and i can tell you that wood is not very sound

I ordered a mnandi and the scales are bog oak.... I know that I don't have to be concerned about the durability of bog oak
 
I dig the scratches on the blade!

The moisture appears to be a separate issue altogether.
 
Blue Puma said:
Your photos literally made me laugh out loud.

Next use the blade as a pry bar and tell us how it went.
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Not to disrespect your posts, but this smells really stong of a fanboy thinking CRK can do no wrong. Please consider they get materials from suppliers that may have subs and sub-suppliers to them providing raw materials. It’s totally possible for some * natural * materials to have flaws not readily visible at the time of adhering them to the knife. CRK can do their best but some flaws may get through when working with natural products and especially Spalted Beech. Ever heard of continuous quality improvement?

And anybody can use any tool however they want. The result is what they get- it’s not yours.

Curious-are you a fan of spine whacks to test lock strength?
 
Honda137 said:
Used not abused!
When it’s passed down to my son do you think he will want something he seen me use and carry my entire life
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^^^^this x 1000!! Thanks for posting and the update. I gotta say I was starting to think it was a troll post myself. Bravo to you for putting these knives to work. Too bad you found the weak link in the line-up. I hope you have more success with your other CRKs.

Keep us updated!
 
JBoone said:
I dig the scratches on the blade!

The moisture appears to be a separate issue altogether.
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Exactly, the scratches on the blade signify it's being used which is why the legend Mr. Reeve made these knives. I don't believe he would have a single issue with how he used his knife. Maybe would've told him to get a pair of snips for the future, ha.

The moisture has zero to do with how he uses the knife and everything to do with the inlay material failing. Could have happened to anyone in a humid climate.
 
I found this post by CRK(June 2000) when they 1st released the inlays
"Joe:

Just a few additional points. If the wood on the inlay becomes scratched or marred, it can be fixed depending on how deep and where the damage is. This is a "we would need to see it first" scenario!
Here is part of a post that we responed to a while back that discusses the wood inlay....

"Stabilizing is a process that replaces the air and moisture in the wood with polyester resin, resulting in increased strength and durability. This process allows previously unworkable wood to be machined and used as inlays. Please note, however, that even though the wood has gone through this stabilizing process, there still remains a large percentage of natural material and proper care should be taken. For example, do not leave your Wood Inlay Sebenza in direct sunlight or use it in conditions of extreme moisture, i.e., deep sea diving or gutting trout down at the river. These environmental factors may cause the wood to expand beyond its normal capacity.
The bottom line is, no matter how much we dress up the Sebenza, it is, first and foremost, functional and the Wood Inlay Sebenza is no exception. However, common sense dictates that this is an exceptional folder and it should be treated as such."

Hope this helps,
Mark"
 
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How could a piece of wood with double-sided tape possibly be expected to stand up to extreme high moisture situations? Even if you soak the wood in epoxy and use the best double-sided tape in the world.

I would bet if you let an inlay (of any material, even micarta) sit in salt water for a few weeks, the double sided tape will eventually fail. Sweat is salt water.

For those of you with inlay sebenzas that have gone deep sea diving with them, I applaud your fanboyism. I love CRK but the laws of physics as applied to adhesive materials don't change just because I like a knife company.
 
bvo85 said:
How could a piece of wood with double-sided tape possibly be expected to stand up to extreme high moisture situations? Even if you soak the wood in epoxy and use the best double-sided tape in the world.

I would bet if you let an inlay (of any material, even micarta) sit in salt water for a few weeks, the double sided tape will eventually fail. Sweat is salt water.

For those of you with inlay sebenzas that have gone deep sea diving with them, I applaud your fanboyism. I love CRK but the laws of physics as applied to adhesive materials don't change just because I like a knife company.
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Laws of physics bow down to tolerance ;)
 
bvo85 said:
How could a piece of wood with double-sided tape possibly be expected to stand up to extreme high moisture situations? Even if you soak the wood in epoxy and use the best double-sided tape in the world.

I would bet if you let an inlay (of any material, even micarta) sit in salt water for a few weeks, the double sided tape will eventually fail. Sweat is salt water.

For those of you with inlay sebenzas that have gone deep sea diving with them, I applaud your fanboyism. I love CRK but the laws of physics as applied to adhesive materials don't change just because I like a knife company.
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To be fair, a review of 3M VHB helps to understand their testing and recommended uses in extreme conditions. For example, under the Solvent and Moisture topic they state, "Although laboratory tests have shown no degradation after 10 years submersion in salt water, VHB Tapes are not recommended for applications involving continuous submersion." So that tells me the VHB is hardly affected by salt water. There is also a table listing temperatures and shear strength and it only begins to weaken at about 150 degrees F.

They also claim under the The Benefits of Using VHB Tape topic, "Resists solvents and salt water. Seals and bonds even in extreme environments." Another plus for inlays in sweaty pockets.

I do not know how CRK prepares the inlays for VHB, but 3M lists the surface preparation for wood as, "Seal surface with paint, varnish or thin coat of neoprene contact adhesive." I assume the stabilized (AKA: resin impregnated) inlays have a reasonable seal on them.

So it's likely not the adhesive that is failing but rather the natural inlay material changing it's properties.

You can read more by googling 3M VHB Tapes Product Info and Selection Guide.
 
Very interesting. Thanks for the pictures.
I wonder how Micarta would react under the same circumstances.
It is hard for me to believe that you can squeeze a solid stabilized piece of wood so that it releases moisture.
Could be the piece of wood is not saturated with resin or there is some moisture between the scales and the titanium.
Properties of wood can be pretty different from piece to piece so it seems.

Spalted beech sure looks nice and when you look it up (Wiki) it should be obvious it is more for the looks.

Did you contact CRK about the Bog Oak?
 
red mag said:
Very interesting. Thanks for the pictures.
I wonder how Micarta would react under the same circumstances.
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Micarta should be fine. One of the characteristics people buy the micarta inlay for is a bit of grip when wet. Mine has been in many a wet condition and the only effect I have ever noticed is darkening.
People balk at the micarta being the same price as those beautiful woods, but it really is the best user/user inlay Sebenza IMO :)
 
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