-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Inner Tube Extravaganza
- Thread starter DerekH
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2014
- Messages
- 1,184
THAT....is a great prize! Congrats, Cody!
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2014
- Messages
- 5,802
That is AMAZING!!!!
Congratulations, Cody! Can't wait for pics. Will the saber 16 be admired or beat upon? Personally I'd have a hard time punishing something that is no longer in production and in a way irreplaceable, but then again, it is a well designed tool!
Mr. Becker, great contest, excellent prize and glad you're remaining healthy!
Congratulations, Cody! Can't wait for pics. Will the saber 16 be admired or beat upon? Personally I'd have a hard time punishing something that is no longer in production and in a way irreplaceable, but then again, it is a well designed tool!
Mr. Becker, great contest, excellent prize and glad you're remaining healthy!
I've been debating that question quite a bit - on one hand it's a great knife that was designed to take the abuse, but at the same time that is a very high ranking knife for the collection. At this point I think I'm leaning towards some light usage, and continuing to search for a second one to beat on a little haha
ITS HERE!!!
the bk15 that I've been working on was closest at hand so it seemed like a fitting knife to use to open it
the contents of the envelope - very cool bonus!
the part that you've we've all been waiting to see...
This was hands down one of the coolest prizes that could have been chosen. Ethan, I cannot thank you enough for this awesome knife! Not only is it a sabre ground bk16, but a smooth coating, roll stamp model, without the first production run writing!
the bk15 that I've been working on was closest at hand so it seemed like a fitting knife to use to open it
the contents of the envelope - very cool bonus!
the part that you've we've all been waiting to see...
This was hands down one of the coolest prizes that could have been chosen. Ethan, I cannot thank you enough for this awesome knife! Not only is it a sabre ground bk16, but a smooth coating, roll stamp model, without the first production run writing!
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2014
- Messages
- 5,802
Definitely the best (Becker themed) prize I could have imagined. Gorgeous.
A common modification of the original sheath on the BK2 is to remove the floppy/overlarge nylon-webbing belt loop that is riveted to the small removable Glass Filled Nylon (GFN) bracket that itself is secured with four tiny Chicago screws (also called screw-posts) to the available holes in the Glass Filled Nylon (GFN) sheath itself. (The aforementioned rivets in the bracket are also torn-out and tossed.) A large Tek-Lok is then mounted vertically onto the aforementioned bracket ... which has to be temporarily popped-off the sheath for the procedure.
It's a simple, clean and inexpensive tweak, and the result is a high-riding beefy knife whose sheath is solidly clamped (like a limpet) to (optimally) a basic beefy big black nylon belt. I use the thick double-layer Uncle Mike's gunbelt. The solidly clamped-in knife sits in a solidly clamped-on (as in zero "play") sheath, but can be removed with just a firm tug using one hand. It's great.
But those hard-to-find Chicago screws loosen up with the flexing of the system, and can quietly fall out (don't ask me how I know) unless they're secured with Loc-Tite or fingernail polish or whatever. The worse culprits (actually, the only ones, so far for me) are them three Tek-Lok screw-posts that secure the Tek-Lok to the bracket on the sheath, because they cannot be accessed to tighten them regularly. The bracket has to be removed for the procedure, and then replaced afterwards. It's a real PITA hassle ... with the four tiny screw-posts being removed and then being put back in two minutes later ... all the while trying not to have one of the eight tiny parts roll off the table and down into the heating ducts.
After it happened to me a second time, I went through the whole routine but added a nice coat of fingernail polish to the the relevant threads before reassembling the unit. It looked secure, but I still didn't trust it. And then I had a swell Aha!! moment. There was a nice fat unobtrusive "Ranger Band" already on the sheath ... because I thought it might come in handy someday and it looked hard-core-cool in the meantime.
I slipped it off and stretched it out a bit (making it thinner ... just amazing) and was able to just barely slide it down from above into the assembled system ... in such a way that it was wrapped around the head and base-post of the three vulnerable Tek-Lok screw-posts ... covering both the screw-head on one end and the internally-threaded post base on the other end. Snugging top and bottom together under rubbery tension ...
Am I a genius, or what?
It's a simple, clean and inexpensive tweak, and the result is a high-riding beefy knife whose sheath is solidly clamped (like a limpet) to (optimally) a basic beefy big black nylon belt. I use the thick double-layer Uncle Mike's gunbelt. The solidly clamped-in knife sits in a solidly clamped-on (as in zero "play") sheath, but can be removed with just a firm tug using one hand. It's great.
But those hard-to-find Chicago screws loosen up with the flexing of the system, and can quietly fall out (don't ask me how I know) unless they're secured with Loc-Tite or fingernail polish or whatever. The worse culprits (actually, the only ones, so far for me) are them three Tek-Lok screw-posts that secure the Tek-Lok to the bracket on the sheath, because they cannot be accessed to tighten them regularly. The bracket has to be removed for the procedure, and then replaced afterwards. It's a real PITA hassle ... with the four tiny screw-posts being removed and then being put back in two minutes later ... all the while trying not to have one of the eight tiny parts roll off the table and down into the heating ducts.
After it happened to me a second time, I went through the whole routine but added a nice coat of fingernail polish to the the relevant threads before reassembling the unit. It looked secure, but I still didn't trust it. And then I had a swell Aha!! moment. There was a nice fat unobtrusive "Ranger Band" already on the sheath ... because I thought it might come in handy someday and it looked hard-core-cool in the meantime.
I slipped it off and stretched it out a bit (making it thinner ... just amazing) and was able to just barely slide it down from above into the assembled system ... in such a way that it was wrapped around the head and base-post of the three vulnerable Tek-Lok screw-posts ... covering both the screw-head on one end and the internally-threaded post base on the other end. Snugging top and bottom together under rubbery tension ...
Am I a genius, or what?
Greetings to The Land o' Duke! (I still remember sitting in a lecture-hall in the autumn of of 1967 when our most extraordinary prof ... Hank Natunewicz, an ex-USN pilot with a shaved head who had flown in the Pacific Theatre for three years in WW2 ... was telling us about Dr. J.B. Rhine's Institute of Parapsychology in your fair city.)
A picture? Sorry, but I never quite mastered that technology of posting online other than on FB and emails ... but I can describe it accurately. I now have the set-up in my hand ... it is off the belt ... it is set-up for RH carry so the Tek-Lok and the Ka-Bar mounting-bracket are on the backside/beltside of the sheath.
- from the outside as someone standing on my right side would see it on my belt - nothing is visible
- from the front as someone who is facing me would see it - there is the front leading-edge of the sheath with no sign of rubber anywhere on it - and then there is the bracket with its bottom/lower dog-leg portion screwed to the inner/ side of the sheath - with the open at 90-degree Tek-Lok attached to the short upper portion of the dogleg-shaped bracket. At this point you can see the front leading edge of the rubber band where it has been barely slipped down into the narrow curving slot from above to surround that upper connecting point where the sheath-side portion of the Tek-Lok (on the middle horizontal row of three holes) is screwed to the three holes on the short upper dogleg of the bracket.
- turn the whole unit another 90-degrees and you are looking straight at the open Tek-Lok and can see the full two-inch stretch of rubber across the Tek-Lok ... with three empty horizontal holes above and three empty horizontal holes below.
-turn the whole unit one last 90-degrees and you are now viewing it from the rear-edge ... as if standing behind me. The edge of the rubber is visible as it wraps around the Tek-Lok/bracket connection and disappears into the 3/8" wide curving slot between short upper part of the bracket and the sheath itself.
You're damned lucky I don't charge by the word! Someday I gotta master that picture-posting routine.
(This thing took five corrective edits to get it clear.)
I hope.
A picture? Sorry, but I never quite mastered that technology of posting online other than on FB and emails ... but I can describe it accurately. I now have the set-up in my hand ... it is off the belt ... it is set-up for RH carry so the Tek-Lok and the Ka-Bar mounting-bracket are on the backside/beltside of the sheath.
- from the outside as someone standing on my right side would see it on my belt - nothing is visible
- from the front as someone who is facing me would see it - there is the front leading-edge of the sheath with no sign of rubber anywhere on it - and then there is the bracket with its bottom/lower dog-leg portion screwed to the inner/ side of the sheath - with the open at 90-degree Tek-Lok attached to the short upper portion of the dogleg-shaped bracket. At this point you can see the front leading edge of the rubber band where it has been barely slipped down into the narrow curving slot from above to surround that upper connecting point where the sheath-side portion of the Tek-Lok (on the middle horizontal row of three holes) is screwed to the three holes on the short upper dogleg of the bracket.
- turn the whole unit another 90-degrees and you are looking straight at the open Tek-Lok and can see the full two-inch stretch of rubber across the Tek-Lok ... with three empty horizontal holes above and three empty horizontal holes below.
-turn the whole unit one last 90-degrees and you are now viewing it from the rear-edge ... as if standing behind me. The edge of the rubber is visible as it wraps around the Tek-Lok/bracket connection and disappears into the 3/8" wide curving slot between short upper part of the bracket and the sheath itself.
You're damned lucky I don't charge by the word! Someday I gotta master that picture-posting routine.
(This thing took five corrective edits to get it clear.)
I hope.
Last edited:
post a picture on FB, copy the web address, paste the address into your post and wrap it in image tags
Thanks for the help, but it doesn't seem to work. Would to please tell me very specifically how to find and copy the web address. I have a nice picture of Steve freshly posted on my FB page.