Insane performance boost in cutting ability!

Here's a Manix s110v that was around .030" thick before the regrind, after it was ~.005" as requested. Gonna be a drastic improvement that's for sure!

IMG_20150511_180343.jpg

IMG_20150511_180512.jpg


It's also important when regrinding FFG not to allow the grind to thin down the spine much if at all:

IMG_20150509_134646.jpg
 
Josh, have you done a regrind on an 810 Contego? If so, do you have any pics?

I'm struggling to see how it would be done, but regrind, although I've done a number of them, are not my forte. I'd love to have my edc thinned, but not at the expense of completely changing the blade (barring geometry of course).

What about a very thin, but large hollow grind? Possible?
 
razor-edge-knives said:
Here's a Manix s110v that was around .030" thick before the regrind, after it was ~.005" as requested. Gonna be a drastic improvement that's for sure!

IMG_20150511_180343.jpg

IMG_20150511_180512.jpg


It's also important when regrinding FFG not to allow the grind to thin down the spine much if at all:

IMG_20150509_134646.jpg
[/QUOTE

Josh -

My feelings are that the EST KN 100 Sharpness Edge Tester will give "snap shots" when the before and after EST test are performed with the BESS test media.

There are several post in this thread that would have benefited if the "Sharpness Edge Tester" from Edge On Up had been at hand.

Thanks
Rupert
Click to expand...
 
Omega Leather Works said:
Josh, have you done a regrind on an 810 Contego? If so, do you have any pics?

I'm struggling to see how it would be done, but regrind, although I've done a number of them, are not my forte. I'd love to have my edc thinned, but not at the expense of completely changing the blade (barring geometry of course).

What about a very thin, but large hollow grind? Possible?
Click to expand...

No I don't think I have done one on that one specifically, but steel works the same doesn't matter on knife specifics (unless a complicated grind, that is different of course =)). But I have done a Hinderer XM-18 skinner pictured below, which has a similar blade shape :)

IMG_20150428_134932.jpg

IMG_20150428_135058.jpg


In regards to the wide hollow grind, yes it is possible if you do it on a large wheel (highest I have is 14") but on hollows you don't want to go too thin unless you are using it strictly for slicing soft/medium materials. I would suggest .010", esp. on m4 as I have had no issues on my gayle bradley going that thin, even chopping through small tree limbs finger width size.

rlucius said:
Josh -

My feelings are that the EST KN 100 Sharpness Edge Tester will give "snap shots" when the before and after EST test are performed with the BESS test media.

There are several post in this thread that would have benefited if the "Sharpness Edge Tester" from Edge On Up had been at hand.

Thanks
Rupert
Click to expand...

Yeah I am really interested in looking into that when it gets here, Rupert, specifically I want to see if blade geometry has any effect on the sharpness. In other words, if I took an axe finished at 15 dps and then took a commercial razor blade finished at 15 dps, both finished with the same grit stone in the same manner, would one test above the other? But this is a topic for a different thread =) So we can take it there if you like!
 
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Best and most educational thread in a long time. I have actually started thinning out my Condor Windfang neck knife. This thread has given me the information I need, to at least, apply a certain technique. I don't have access to power tools, so its all manual. Also, I picked this one because its tiny and so thick for its blade width as to make it almost totally useless. Keeping it steady as I grind away is difficult though.

Thank you gentlemen.

EDIT: Could someone confirm or correct my understanding of distal taper and its importance to blade grinding? It strikes me that any FFG knife will necessarily have distal taper as long as there is some curve/belly to the edge. FFG wharncliffs would have distal taper closer to the tip/point depending on the final shape. A Santoku (a kind of wharncliff in my mind), tapers only after the "drop" near the tip. A FFG straight razor (if they exist) would have no real point/tip and hence no distal taper. I have seen this on some competition choppers too.

After the Windfang, I plan to "graduate" to my much used BK14, which is also pretty damn thick especially after many sharpenings. It, however, does not seem to be a proper full flat grind as the spine maintains full thickness near 2/3rds of the way to the tip. I.e it tapers distally (I hope I am using these terms correctly) quite close to the tip. Could I have some advice on technique to change it to a proper FFG when I regrind it?.

Thanks again.
 
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Indianbladenoob said:
EDIT: Could someone confirm or correct my understanding of distal taper and its importance to blade grinding? It strikes me that any FFG knife will necessarily have distal taper as long as there is some curve/belly to the edge. FFG wharncliffs would have distal taper closer to the tip/point depending on the final shape. A Santoku (a kind of wharncliff in my mind), tapers only after the "drop" near the tip. A FFG straight razor (if they exist) would have no real point/tip and hence no distal taper. I have seen this on some competition choppers too.

After the Windfang, I plan to "graduate" to my much used BK14, which is also pretty damn thick especially after many sharpenings. It, however, does not seem to be a proper full flat grind as the spine maintains full thickness near 2/3rds of the way to the tip. I.e it tapers distally (I hope I am using these terms correctly) quite close to the tip. Could I have some advice on technique to change it to a proper FFG when I regrind it?.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...

Well I don't have any specific help to offer when it comes to regrinding by hand on a stone since I do mine on belts. But basically the way I see it is that if you want a perfect height flat grind then you need to keep the edge perpendicular at all times to the grind direction. The way the flat grinding gets thicker towards the tip in some cases is because:

1. They alter the grind angle or
2. They keep the spine perpendicular to the grind direction, instead of the edge.
 
This is one I just finished up... interesting blade - made of full titanium (special grade) heat treated to about 47 hrc apparently. you can tell when grinding. The corrosion resistance is insane though, apparently they left it in salt water for 4 years and it showed no sign of corrosion! Anyway... customer was not impressed w/ the factory sharpening job and though it could not get sharp at all, so he was going to serrate the whole thing, fortunately he did not go that route and now has a combo edge (same as before but much thinner and will cut now). I also modified the tip into a reverse tanto/chisel type edge, kind of interesting! Talk about a night and day difference performance wise... will now shave arm hair at all sharpened edges, even serrations!

15%2B-%2B1

15%2B-%2B2

15%2B-%2B3
 
Just finished this one up... Emerson ETAK, logo delete and zero ground.

15%2B-%2B1

15%2B-%2B3
15%2B-%2B5
 
That's some really impressive work. What you did to the blade before this one (the titanium one) is essentially knife making. Very nice job.

Brian.
 
Great thread! I work mostly with kitchen knives. Often buthers like to "hot rod" old knives. Make an old chefs knife into a specific knife to cut around neck bones that requires a completely new blade design, tons of thinning, and of course broken tips.
Today I was given a Shun that a "professional sharpener" worked on. Shuns have a distinct left/right hand specific handle. This particular Shun was single bevel. Only the bevel was in the wrong side!
Best answer was to create a asymetrical bevel.
 
bgentry said:
That's some really impressive work. What you did to the blade before this one (the titanium one) is essentially knife making. Very nice job.

Brian.
Click to expand...

Thanks Brian!

Bazzle said:
Great thread! I work mostly with kitchen knives. Often buthers like to "hot rod" old knives. Make an old chefs knife into a specific knife to cut around neck bones that requires a completely new blade design, tons of thinning, and of course broken tips.
Today I was given a Shun that a "professional sharpener" worked on. Shuns have a distinct left/right hand specific handle. This particular Shun was single bevel. Only the bevel was in the wrong side!
Best answer was to create a asymetrical bevel.
Click to expand...

Very true, thinning is so helpful in the kitchen! Would love to see pics of the shun =) thanks!
 
Sorry Josh, no pics.
I'm really bad about taking photos of my work. As we all know, it's something that can't be rushed.
I have a mobile sharpening service and always find myself behind schedule. I often take before pictures and by the time I'm done I just want to return everything so I can make up some time.
The Shun I repaired was probably 70/30. I typically use the angle cube in situations like this and mark it on a board in front of my work bench so when I sharpen it again there's no guess work.
In this case, (as all), I wanted to remove the least amount of metal as possible and regain the biast more friendly for the right hand.
 
Bazzle said:
Sorry Josh, no pics.
I'm really bad about taking photos of my work. As we all know, it's something that can't be rushed.
I have a mobile sharpening service and always find myself behind schedule. I often take before pictures and by the time I'm done I just want to return everything so I can make up some time.
The Shun I repaired was probably 70/30. I typically use the angle cube in situations like this and mark it on a board in front of my work bench so when I sharpen it again there's no guess work.
In this case, (as all), I wanted to remove the least amount of metal as possible and regain the biast more friendly for the right hand.
Click to expand...

No worries buddy, I know the feeling well! lol
 
Thank you! Those are sweet as well. :thumbup:

Here's the only blade grinding I've done LOL, chipped it chopping on frozen maple:

21490331760_0f2f788d63_h.jpg



It then sat for almost a year (which hurts as it's a $200.00 custom LOL) Finally took the bull by the horns and did a convex recurve to fix the damage section:

20221708184_94fee1c8e8_h.jpg


Now it's a mini falcata... ;):thumbup: Still very thin behind the edge because of the lean FFG grind. :thumbup: 52100 steel btw...
 
Czechmate said:
Thank you! Those are sweet as well. :thumbup:

Here's the only blade grinding I've done LOL, chipped it chopping on frozen maple:

21490331760_0f2f788d63_h.jpg



It then sat for almost a year (which hurts as it's a $200.00 custom LOL) Finally took the bull by the horns and did a convex recurve to fix the damage section:

20221708184_94fee1c8e8_h.jpg


Now it's a mini falcata... ;):thumbup: Still very thin behind the edge because of the lean FFG grind. :thumbup: 52100 steel btw...
Click to expand...

Nice job man! Great fix! That blow out into the primary grind is exactly why each regrind must be individual and each knife ground custom to the uses that will be demanded of it. Turned out beautifully!
 
Man, I didn't realize my Woodsman Pro looked so bad before the regrind. It certainly made a night and day difference in the cutting. Absolutely thrilled with my regrind.
 
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