Insane performance boost in cutting ability!

There are some very nice regrinds in here. My most carried knives are Krein regrinds, and my Caly Jr in ZDP 189 with a high hollow grind with a .004" thick top of the edge bevel is what I use the most for EDC cutting. The cutting ability is so much higher with an edge only .005"-.010" thick at the top of the bevel that it's hard to use a typical .025" thick edge after that. I have an S110V Para 2 and my Bradley 1 on their way back to me from Tom Krein with sub .010" edges, and I'm anxious to put them to use. Since Tom only did those 2 as a 1 time favor for me for all of my past business I may have to start sending some knives into Josh when I want a regrind, as the pictures in this thread look like great work.
 
gunmike1 said:
There are some very nice regrinds in here. My most carried knives are Krein regrinds, and my Caly Jr in ZDP 189 with a high hollow grind with a .004" thick top of the edge bevel is what I use the most for EDC cutting. The cutting ability is so much higher with an edge only .005"-.010" thick at the top of the bevel that it's hard to use a typical .025" thick edge after that. I have an S110V Para 2 and my Bradley 1 on their way back to me from Tom Krein with sub .010" edges, and I'm anxious to put them to use. Since Tom only did those 2 as a 1 time favor for me for all of my past business I may have to start sending some knives into Josh when I want a regrind, as the pictures in this thread look like great work.
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Love to see some pics! You are a lucky man to get Tom to do some for you!
 
razor-edge-knives said:
Love to see some pics! You are a lucky man to get Tom to do some for you!
Click to expand...

I'll have to figure out posting pictures since I haven't done that here in probably 5 years. I should get my regrinds back on Tuesday, so I'll try to figure it out. The website I used to post my pictures from now charges to do it and I'm too cheap to pay them. I think I've heard that imgur would work, but whatever I use I want to be able to post from my iPhone directly if possible.

As Sodak mentioned earlier in this thread starting back around 2007 up until Tom Krein stopped doing regrinds around 2010 I had a lot of knives reground. I find that most factory edges are way too thick for my liking, and getting them reground makes a huge difference. For things like cardboard and rope you really don't need a thick edge for durability. If you start carving some hardwood a little thicker edge can't hurt, but even then a .025" is just excessively thick and it badly hurts both cutting ability and ease of sharpening. I like thin knives with pretty acute angles, and moderate angle microbevels (usually 7-10 degrees per side, with a 15-20 degree per side microbevel is what my blades are running). I run as acute an angle as possible until I notice microchipping, then I thicken up or go wider with the microbevel until the chipping stops. Basic things to maximize cutting ability.
 
gunmike1 said:
I'll have to figure out posting pictures since I haven't done that here in probably 5 years. I should get my regrinds back on Tuesday, so I'll try to figure it out. The website I used to post my pictures from now charges to do it and I'm too cheap to pay them. I think I've heard that imgur would work, but whatever I use I want to be able to post from my iPhone directly if possible.

As Sodak mentioned earlier in this thread starting back around 2007 up until Tom Krein stopped doing regrinds around 2010 I had a lot of knives reground. I find that most factory edges are way too thick for my liking, and getting them reground makes a huge difference. For things like cardboard and rope you really don't need a thick edge for durability. If you start carving some hardwood a little thicker edge can't hurt, but even then a .025" is just excessively thick and it badly hurts both cutting ability and ease of sharpening. I like thin knives with pretty acute angles, and moderate angle microbevels (usually 7-10 degrees per side, with a 15-20 degree per side microbevel is what my blades are running). I run as acute an angle as possible until I notice microchipping, then I thicken up or go wider with the microbevel until the chipping stops. Basic things to maximize cutting ability.
Click to expand...
I use imgur exclusively and only go on the forum on a computer rarely, usually to leave feedback.
 
Gunmike1,

Welcome back, where you been? :D Looking forward to more of these discussions with you!
 
This weekend project
Caly3 superblue regrind from 0.045" to around 0.010"
60 grit sand paper over a flat piece of wood followed by 80 and 120 grit. Took about an hour.
As the title says insane boost in performance
Before and after
9DAD33E0-FED9-4923-B4BC-C96F2CF19F96_zps8w9vgwp3.jpg

8603C58B-82D8-4C0B-B812-D07273281803_zpsbmckbytl.jpg

D1D169B8-D66D-4A7C-8EA5-8F6AADFAD9DF_zps8yxfaujz.jpg

I also did a thorough cleaning of the G10 with an old tooth brush and dishwasher soap
Mateo
 
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ALLHSS said:
I use imgur exclusively and only go on the forum on a computer rarely, usually to leave feedback.
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I just got an account w/ smugmug and it's amazing... you can have full size images (no reduction) and unlimited storage, no ads. It's around $45/year but per month that's not much! Loving it so far!

lutejones said:
This weekend project
Caly3 superblue regrind from 0.045" to around 0.010"
60 grit sand paper over a flat piece of wood followed by 80 and 120 grit. Took about an hour.
As the title says insane boost in performance
Before and after
I also did a thorough cleaning of the G10 with an old tooth brush and dishwasher soap
Mateo
Click to expand...

Nice job! Now as time goes on and the edge thickens up just slightly you can refine the finish a little at a time! :thumbup:

Here's a strider SMF tanto I finished up recently

16%2B-%2B2

16%2B-%2B1
 
Nice regrinds Razor Edge, almost all blades perform so much better when reground if you actually use knife for cutting.I regrind almost all of mine and they cut way better.For people that pry and use knives for non knife tasks I guess standard obtuse grinds work better!
 
This discussion reminds me that I need to upgrade my membership!
Moving from a razors apex of about 0.35 to 0.45 µ-microns (350 to 450 nm-nanometers or 3500 to 4500 Å-angstroms), to an obsidian apex which yields a 0.003 µ, or 3.0 nm (30 Å), reminded me that thin is sharp as long as the material can hold up to the work. This thread has touched on the practical applications of thin blades, and after approaching it three times I am very thankful for the discussion. Now I know why all my kitchen knives look the way they look, plus the discussions context has given me access to a bunch of forum members ideas and work. Of necessity, I am a one rifle kinda guy for most of my tools, a philosophy that has become a strong strength of sanity as I filter everything through the capacity of each tool. The Bible as the original instruction manual, the 30-06 good enough for a freeman out to 1000 yards, a BM275 or 710 for most cutting chores outside the kitchen. Thanks everyone!
scottc3
 
Originally posted by razor-edge-knives

Here's a few more...

Microbeveled the main edge, zero ground the tip:
15%2B-%2B1
15%2B-%2B2


Josh,
Curious what the thought was behind zero grind on Tanto tip of this Mini CQC?

Typically, I would think the tip of a Tanto is where you want piercing strength along edge of that section. Wondering about the application purpose of the zero ground tip area, combined with secondary bevel on main section of blade. Maybe simple as "what the customer ordered ..."? Curiously wondering ...?

Nice grinds, BTW !!
 
Spey said:
Josh,
Curious what the thought was behind zero grind on Tanto tip of this Mini CQC?

Typically, I would think the tip of a Tanto is where you want piercing strength along edge of that section. Wondering about the application purpose of the zero ground tip area, combined with secondary bevel on main section of blade. Maybe simple as "what the customer ordered ..."? Curiously wondering ...?

Nice grinds, BTW !!
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Thanks! I don't remember why I did it that way... I think he left it up to me and I did that because the tanto tip portion typically has a slightly steeper grind on it than the main edge which means it will have more strength. There should be zero issues w/ prying w/ that tip because it's such a short grind height compared to the stock thickness. Most people (including myself) use the front 1/3rd portion of the blade the most, which means it will get sharpened the most. If I started this w/ a secondary bevel it would get that much wider that much quicker... this just gives it a 'head start' so to speak :)
 
Shouldn't a paring knife be able to hold an edge a lot longer than it does ? my Victorinox 4" paring knives hold an okay edge but the blade is right at 1mm thick you would think that at that thickness (I know the steel is not the greatest)but it shouldn't dull as fast as they do,any thoughts?the wife uses it for general cutting tasks fruits/veggies, poultry etc. she does use it a bit but definitely not excessivel.
 
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BITEME said:
Shouldn't a paring knife be able to hold an edge a lot longer than it does ? my Victorinox 4" paring knives hold an okay edge but the blade is right at 1mm thick you would think that at that thickness (I know the steel is not the greatest)but it shouldn't dull as fast as they do,any thoughts?the wife uses it for general cutting tasks fruits/veggies, poultry etc. she does use it a bit but definitely not excessivel.
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There are several factors that could be contributing to an edge that's prematurely failing... the method and technique used for sharpening, and the user (how the knife is actually handled can make a big difference). You must make sure that there is no remainder of a wire edge or a burr which will fail rather quickly. If you have eliminated this then next I would check with your wife to make sure she isn't scraping it across the cutting board, knocking the edge into bone, cutting on anything other than plastic or wood, etc. Lastly, I would suggest you get either a ceramic honing rod (like Messermeister) or the spyderco sharpmaker. You need to use this after EACH use to "steel" the edge which will keep it in sharp working order =) Hope this helps!
 
sodak said:
Gunmike1,

Welcome back, where you been? :D Looking forward to more of these discussions with you!
Click to expand...

I got out of the knife hobby for a few years when I got divorced as alimony wasn't conductive to buying more blades. I'm getting back in a little bit now with buying a couple new knives to play with. I certainly look forward to having some more discussions with you as well. It's good to see that you are still here.
 
RE: CQC-7 - Was wondering ... looks like that tip was once broken off previously, with a stubby-grind repair?

Cool, I just learned (I think) that I am not part of the "most people" group ;-)
I would say that I am typically using the other 2/3rds, from belly to heal.
Wow, that's an interesting comparative to think about.

Good thread,
Appreciate your replies,
 
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chiral.grolim said:
A man can be honorable in every other way and still have a poor grasp of English. That's OK, just don't perpetuate it.
The "primary edge" is the edge, i.e. where bevels meet to form one. There is NO "secondary edge" behind this edge or in front of it, it doesn't exist. That's nonsense. Furthermore a "hypothetical edge" does NOT describe a "bevel", and even if you tried to explain it that way, such an edge would be "primary" as it leads and is made before a relief/secondary bevel is ground. I described adding another bevel behind the edge as "back" but it could be given another term, so long as you don't call it an "edge" ;) and I refer to it as the "back" bevel because it is ground after the edge-bevel and it certainly isn't "primary" as it wasn't ground first, has almost no impact on the geometry of the blade, and doesn't lead (least important). To call the actual primary-grind a "back bevel" implies that it isn't as important when it is actually MOST important to the overall geometry of the tool. The geometry of the edge can be changed easily and does change naturally as it gets dull and needs to be resharpened, but to alter the overall cutting geometry of the blade, you must alter the "primary grind" as the OP indicates. It's not a "back bevel". As you noted, on older knives you couldn't even SEE the edge-bevel and Scandi-blades try to avoid them altogether. To call it a "back bevel" would imply that Scandi-blades have ONLY a "back bevel" (since we all know that the very act of cutting rubs/grinds down the very edge).
There ARE actual Japanese terms for the anatomy of a knife blade and none of them refer to "hypothetical edge" or "secondary edge", those are a misuse of terminology. If you're going to use Japanese terms, use "Ha" for the cutting edge, use "Hira" or "Kiriba" for the bevel (not sure which is accurate), or better yet use the actual Japanese script, don't misuse English to try to explain...


I know, I need to relax.
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Good point. I think you have stumbled upon a bigger problem. What we need is a universal agreed upon anatomy of a knife.

I think in Mr. Carter's case he is using the term "Secondary Edge" as a variable or as a place holder for the name of that particular part of the knife's edge. One could surmise he chose that particular term as a descriptor of where you are at on the edge. Though an edge is where two planes meet, how does one determine exactly where they meet? Is it visually where they stop? Or is it on a microscopic scale? Or is it on a planck scale?

We could also call that part of the knife "laladededa"if we wanted to. As long as the people in a given conversation understand what is being referenced to, debating the term itself is a matter of nomenclature.

We call automobiles "cars" because the first automobiles resembled rail road cars. Should we stop calling them cars?

I think Mr. Carter simply got stuck using nomenclature that was ok until something better came along.
 
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Spey said:
RE: CQC-7 - Was wondering ... looks like that tip was once broken off previously, with a stubby-grind repair?

Cool, I just learned (I think) that I am not part of the "most people" group ;-)
I would say that I am typically using the other 2/3rds, from belly to heal.
Wow, that's an interesting comparative to think about.

Good thread,
Appreciate your replies,
Click to expand...

Thanks man. No that tip didn't have any stubby grind.... It may have been broken previously I have no way of knowing but it wasn't very much shorter if at all.
 
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pathwinder14 said:
I think in Mr. Carter's case he is using the term "Secondary Edge" as a variable or as a place holder for the name of that particular part of the knife's edge. One could surmise he chose that particular term as a descriptor of where you are at on the edge. Though an edge is where two planes meet, how does one determine exactly where they meet? Is it visually where they stop? Or is it on a microscopic scale? Or is it on a planck scale?


I think Mr. Carter simply got stuck using nomenclature that was ok until something better came along.
Click to expand...

In my opinion both approaches are correct.
If you are talking about grinds or bevels is logical to name them primary bevel because it is ground first from the blade blank, and then secondary bevel which you grind afterwards
However if you are talking about edges, it makes sense to talk about primary edge, because it actually does the cutting and because that's called primary the one behind is called secondary.
Anyway maybe because English is not my native language I find it less weird.

Mateo
 
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