Inside a new 110

chickentrax

chickentrax

Joined
Aug 5, 2005
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I had bought this "Commemorative" Buck 110 w/Idaho tang stamp [the one in the tin, from Wal-Mart] for a special project [read: I'm going to hack it up], and while taking it apart I thought you might be interested/amused at what it looks like...

This has only been opened 4 times [by me] before disassembly...



The black goop you see around the pivot area is compressed abrasive polishing compound, possibly mixed with some lubricant. This 110 was a trifle stiff to open. Leaving this stuff in there would most likely contribute to premature wear from the abrasive compound.

As suggested by others, in this Forum and elsewhere, it is always a good idea to clean out the knife before using it. I spray mine with WD-40 and work it to get out all this here type goop...I do it several times, until it feels smooth (not gritty), and then apply a good lubricant...TufGlide, MilTech, Rem Oil, or BreakClean...or pretty much any gun oil if I'm lazy...(LSA is great!)...

So...Why are you still sitting there??? Get up, you lazy bums, and clean your new Bucks!!! :D

Edit: As long as I'm lecturing...You can see here how Buck rivets their scales on...It seems to be 1/16" diameter brass rivets with a 1/8" domed head pushed in from the outside and the liner is countersunk for the rivet. The rivet is hollow for part of its length, and the assembler only has to squeeze the rivet in a press to anchor it. Very clever. No peening necessary (at least not here). ;)
 
:eek: :eek: ...humph...I feel stupider than an egg in a nog factory. I assumed the rear bolster pins went clear through. Now I appear to be looking at 4 rivets...Guess it's not too wise to assume anything huh Trax?...:eek: :eek:
 
Trax,

I'm guessing here, when you take that 110 apart you use a punch to drive the bolster pins out...then file/grind the rocker pin on one side then drive it out the other side??? Can you reuse those pins? What about the bolster pin replacement? Is there tension on the spring?

Can you get it back together and working again? Me, I've not had any trouble getting things apart;)...it is the get back together and then working that's been my nemesis:mad:.

Is this part of your cutting board scales project???

I'm real interested in how your going about this...post alot of pics and post often. I'm thinking your on a roll, a 110 tutorial!!! Thanks and good luck. Best of the Season. Preston
 
Ok Trax..... tell us about your special project. What's it going to be when it goes back together? Can you keep us in the loop as you work on the project and post more pictures.
 
DarrylS said:
..I feel stupider than an egg in a nog factory...Now I appear to be looking at 4 rivets...
Click to expand...

You're still in the upper IQ bracket... :D

No, the bolsters rivets are removed; that's just the holes you see...it looks like a big scale rivet because Buck countersinks *everything*...bolster pin holes, blade pivot holes, scale holes... :rolleyes:
 
pjsjr said:
I'm guessing here, when you take that 110 apart you use a punch to drive the bolster pins out...then file/grind the rocker pin on one side then drive it out the other side??? Can you reuse those pins? What about the bolster pin replacement? Is there tension on the spring?
Click to expand...

First I mill one end off the rockerbar rivet and drive it out - I got an arbor press from Harbor Freight. Then I made a jig to hold the knife in the right position; the jig has three rivet holes that a pin pushes through to push the brass rivets out, using the arbor press...No, the old pins are trash; I'm using 1/8" brass rod for the bolsters plus a .060" brass sheet to make a center divider liner for the 2nd blade...It'll be a homemade 110/112 Knife...The rockerbar pin is a 1/8" steel rod...

That's the theory...We'll see how well it works out...(the eBay 112 is on the way)...I'll need another 110 rockerbar and spacer...

I need more 110's... :rolleyes:

My camera sucks, but if it works out, I'll scan it and post it...after I clean it, of course... ;)
 
:) :rolleyes: :) ...Oh boy...I feel sooo much gooder now. I guess now that I know my EYES are SHOT :cool: and I couldn't tell I was lookin' at holes I oughta give some thought to gettin' a new pair of glasses. LMAO...Keep us posted as to the progress you make Trax...It's interesting as all get out.:cool: :eek: ;)
 
Trax, Thanks...arbor press???? WT? is that? When you post your pictures please include that...maybe in operation, as-per the jig used in pin removal and placement. Inquiring minds and all that, you know. Preston
 
:rolleyes: :) :eek: ...hmmm...I have an arbor press in my garage that I press bearings out with. Making a jig to match the 110 or 112 wouldn't be that bad to do what with Lexan and all the other synthetics available...I know I have some small punches and dies down to .032 or so...See what ya done now Trax...I have enough to do around this house without thinkin' about rebuilding knives and making jigs and fixtures to do modifications to 'em to boot....Sheeesh...Who said Bucks can be addictive anyway??...LMAO...: :o :eek:
 
DarrylS said:
...Making a jig to match the 110 or 112 wouldn't be that bad to do what with Lexan and all the other synthetics available...
Click to expand...

I only made the jig because I didn't think I could hold a pin straight enough to punch out the rivets...plus I had an older 110 apart and could use that as a pattern for the rivet locations...they are hard to see when they're polished... :)

I have several 110's apart now...but finding the time to work on them is difficult...Real Life keeps interfering... :grumpy:
 
pjsjr said:
Trax, Thanks...arbor press???? WT? is that? When you post your pictures please include that...
Click to expand...

Let's see what I can do here...

03551.gif
 
That looks like about a 1 or 3 ton job. Nice little press. I broke one just like it on some front bearings on a Blazer. Should work well on the pins of a 110.
 
Thanks Trax, I'm assuming that the press has no way to hold the "pin"(like a chuck in a drill press) hence the need for a jig...still would like to see pic of it in operation. I'm a visual learner, if any type of learner:rolleyes:.

DarrylS...Bucks addictive??????Nah. No one would say that:D. Preston
 
pjsjr said:
...the press has no way to hold the "pin"(like a chuck in a drill press) hence the need for a jig...still would like to see pic of it in operation...
Click to expand...

That's like listening to a ball game on the radio... :jerkit: You can't see anything...Here's what I mean...

here's a q&d pic -



Just a 5/16" steel plate with 3 locating pins; one hole [rockerbar] to locate the knife; and three holes for the brass pins to drop through...and another 5/16" plate on top for the push-pin...with three holes...



Here's the knife in it...with top off...the aluminum channel on each side locates the knife sideways; the long pin slides in the rockerbar pin hole to positively locate the knife in the jig...

I'll add more holes and a spacer for locating 112's as well...soon as I get one... :D
 
Thanks Trax...you're a very clever, handy fellow to have around. I like Q and D. Good luck and keep those post and pics coming. Preston
 
pjsjr said:
...you're a very clever, handy fellow to have around...
Click to expand...

I'm also cautious...one of those pins has a concentric needle point...I gently prick the knife with it to see if there really is a pin under that hole... :D

I will also slap a piece of masking tape on the bottom of the knife from now on...<sigh>... :rolleyes:
 
Trax, we all live and learn...the school of hard knocks is most difficult...not Q but often D...but satisfying. I applaud you!! Preston
 
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