Inside a new 110

[KeithAM]

Thanks for a very informative thread Chickentrax. And thanks for all of the pics. I'd like to ask for one more. Court you post a pic of all of the 110 parts from the disassembled knife, if it's not too much trouble?

 

[yam]

Chickentrax,

Very informative, thanks a bunch. What's amazing to me is how much strength and overall durability can be obtained through a fairly simple design using fairly basic materials. I think about how many 110's are out in the world and how much abuse is heaped on them by their owners. Shows you that Buck really does know a thing or two about knife design, material choice and manufacturing.

 

[chickentrax]

Court you post a pic of all of the 110 parts from the disassembled knife, if it's not too much trouble?

...Court I???...

Yes, I court...


I didn't separate the bushing from the blade. Don't need to, for what I'm doing.

The new 112 came today. Probably won't get to strip the blade out until the weekend. Still need to strip the other 110 for the rockerbar and spacer. Then cut a middle liner out of .060" brass. Ugh. Wish I knew what the 110/112 Transition knife had for a middle liner; how it is shaped, that is.

 

[jim n]

Tell me how to post pictures and I'll try to get you some close up pics.

 

[pjsjr]

Jim...Try this tutorial...http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219367 It is done by Daniel Koster...if this link doesn't work do a search on his name and I think you'll find it. Preston

 

[KeithAM]

...Court I???...

Yes, I court...

Dang! I work for a Court, and every other sentence I write at work is the Court this or the Court that. It's stuck in my brain!

Anyway, the photo is exactly what I wanted to see. Thanks! Court!

 

[chickentrax]

Dang! I work for a Court, and every other sentence I write at work is the Court this or the Court that...

I know; I'm a smartass... But I couldn't resist...

jim n -

The photo-linking is pretty easy; if your ISP allots you web space, you can post the pic to your space and link it with the

tags...

Ex. -

Or use PhotoBucket, which is what I did with mine.

 

[chickentrax]

BTW...In that pic, you can see scuff marks on the bolsters...That's where I should have put tape...One ton of pressure on a pin puts considerable strain on the surrounding parts; the bolsters got a bit scrootched...

I probably should polish where the bolsters lie...cut down on the rough surface...or just put a pad [or tape] between the knife and jig...well, the bolster has to be polished after pinning anyway...

 

[Hair]

The black goop you see around the pivot area is compressed abrasive polishing compound, possibly mixed with some lubricant. This 110 was a trifle stiff to open. Leaving this stuff in there would most likely contribute to premature wear from the abrasive compound.

As suggested by others, in this Forum and elsewhere, it is always a good idea to clean out the knife before using it. I spray mine with WD-40 and work it to get out all this here type goop...I do it several times, until it feels smooth (not gritty), and then apply a good lubricant...TufGlide, MilTech, Rem Oil, or BreakClean...or pretty much any gun oil if I'm lazy...(LSI is great!)...

So...Why are you still sitting there??? Get up, you lazy bums, and clean your new Bucks!!!

I admit that I am probably one of the least knowledgable knife knuts here, but I don't think the black goop is anything to worry about unless the action of the knife is actually gritty.

All of my folding Buck's have some black goop around the pivot (slipjoints included), as do any of my knives that I have lubricated with Buck's White Lightening lube. It is a "dry" lube, and it just looks that way after it has dried.

Many 110s have been used for decades without being cleaned and still work fine, so I think the wear from this goop isn't something to be concerned about.

But I agree that if the action on the knife is gritty, that something should be done to make it smooth. I also don't think cleaning a knife is ever a bad idea.

And, as always, I could just be totally wrong.

Either way, thanks for the cool pics.

 

[chickentrax]

And, as always, I could just be totally wrong...

The same applies here also! Being wrong is my second hobby!

I based my conclusion on the fact that it actually feels gritty; like dried Simichrome Polish, or Rubbing Compound after it has dried...you can actually feel the pumice...and you can see the scratches on the blade & liner...

I doubt if Buck intentionally applies this goop...I think it is a mixture of their polishing compound that has mixed with the blade pivot lubricant...

Edit: BTW, I fully expect that when I put this booger back together and buff the edges smooth, I'll have more goop than ever in the blade cavity(s)...

 

[chickentrax]

... I like Q and D. Good luck and keep those post and pics coming. Preston

So...You like Q&D???

I gots 'em...



Temp pins holding it together...I keep thinking it's going to go "sproing!!!"...

It's not pretty...and it is a cast-iron beetch to close just one blade...and I need to make the middle liner less "fat"...

And it ain't practical...and it's a model of redundancy...But it shore is different...

 

[Scott Hartman]

chickentrax, keep up the good work I think your doing great. I 'd like to order one of the 531/ 532 combo's, when you get to that project or the drop point/clip point combo 110 when you get that developed:thumbup: Enjoy the Holiday and Thanks!

 

[Daniel Koster]

absolutely awesome! That's one mean sonofagun...I wonder if I could do the same with my auto conversion 110........

 

[chickentrax]

...I 'd like to order one of the 531/ 532 combo's, when you get to that project or the drop point/clip point combo 110 ...

I don't know what a 531/532 is, but the dual drop-clip 110 is a real possibility...or maybe a dual-drop-point 110/112... (426/422?)...

And it is expensive...you need two 110's and a 112...plus a piece of brass sheet and some brass & steel rod...and there's lots left over...(I could have milled the bolsters off one liner, but that's work, too)...



But I don't do this for $$$...Only for kicks...*however*, there is a gent here on the Forum who does do this kind of thing for a living...Leroy Remer!...

Leroy is a former Buck employee and I'll bet he has loads of Buck parts! Plus he knows what he is doing [unlike me] so he is unlikely to make mistakes or waste a lot of time [like I do!]

 

[pjsjr]

Trax,

I think what your doing is great and thanks for posting...which I know adds to the time involved...but your getting rave reviews:thumbup:. I love seeing the internal parts exposed Never thought it was like that, the insides...pretty simple...very durable, I've beat on, knock around, generally abused my 110s at times and know that others have also. Not many parts to go wrong.

I think that I read some where that putting one back together is tricky??? I believe that the pressure on the pivot from the bolster pin is the touchy part...something that you have to just develop a feel for. The ones that I've gotten back from Leroy are really smooth(better than the new ones off the shelf)

Best with your projects and keep those pictures coming...I really like your wit
and reponses to others and there posts as well. Enjoy the Holidays. Preston

 

[chickentrax]

I think that I read some where that putting one back together is tricky???

It shore is, podner!!!



Here's the list of my hunnydo's for the next one:

- Learn how to peen
- Learn how to buff
- Buy some real tools instead of Sears garbage
- Eat some food before starting day-long project
- Don'r be afraid to break out the welding torch

OK. Here's the things that didn't work out too well:

- Made some dents peening the brass pins
- Still have some scratches here and there
- Entire perimeter should have been power-sanded
- Should have sanded wood before assembling
- Don't know how to finish rockerbar pin [sand?]
- 112 blade had notch bigger than rockerbar cog

Here's what went well:

- Using arbor press to crush brass pins in place
- Steel rockerbar pin peened OK
- Milling pins flush works really well
- Brass buffs fairly easily

I peened the 110 rockerbar cog to fit the 112 blade notch; it works OK but it looks odd [it's actually thinner at the end now]. I should have gone ahead and welded a small amount of steel on the end and filed to size.

And as I expected, the blade cavity(s) are full of buffing goop!!!

 

[chickentrax]

I believe that the pressure on the pivot from the bolster pin is the touchy part...

It is my belief that the rockerbar pin should be fully floating...so the rockerbar won't jam...I may be wrong, but that's how I'm treating it...

Edit: And for the people stumbling onto this and wondering what this is, it's an attempt to replicate the 110/112 transition knife...without ever actually seeing one...

 

[DarrylS]

:thumbup: ...LOL...Whatta character...Yer doin' great Trax...keep it up my friend, we're learning as you do all the work. Somehow seems unfair to me. Thanks bud...:thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[rdg]

Very cool! Really enjoyed your project!
Bob

 

[Mike Kerins]

And as I expected, the blade cavity(s) are full of buffing goop!!!

Does this mean that you're going to go a little easier on the Buck folks when you get a new 110 with loads of buffing goop inside?