Introducing Tiger Claw Sharpening

A little shop talk for those of you interested in strops. We are using Bark River Knives black compound and Veritas/Lee Valley Green compound.

Black is courser and has a particle size that averages 7 microns/micrometers. This is roughly equivalent to a 1000 grit Edge Pro stone or a 3k - 5k grit traditional waterstone. Black compound is great for maintaining a toothy edge suitable for fieldwork.

Green compound is chromium and aluminum oxide with an average particle size of 0.5 micron/micrometers. This is about 3X higher than the Edge Pro 7k tape and roughly equivalent to 60k grit. This green compound will restore a shaving sharp edge on a knife that is properly aligned, and is excellent for creating a mirror-like polish on a blade. It does very little cutting but will polish quickly.

In the future, we will also offer bare premium leather strops with no compound that would be appropriate for a straight razor.
 
Last edited:
TripleT said:
A little shop talk for those of you interested in strops. We are using Bark River Knives black compound and Veritas/Lee Valley Green compound.

Black is courser and has a particle size that averages 7 microns/micrometers. This is roughly equivalent to a 400 grit Edge Pro stone or a 3k - 5k grit traditional waterstone. Black compound is great for maintaining a toothy edge suitable for fieldwork.

Green compound is chromium and aluminum oxide with an average particle size of 0.5 micron/micrometers. This is about 3X higher than the Edge Pro 7k tape and roughly equivalent to 60k grit. This green compound will restore a shaving sharp edge on a knife that is properly aligned, and is excellent for creating a mirror-like polish on a blade. It does very little cutting but will polish quickly.

In the future, we will also offer bare premium leather strops with no compound that would be appropriate for a straight razor.
Click to expand...

Just curious but are there any benefits of the Veritas/Lee Valley Green over the Bark River Green and how do they differ? Maybe you just already had that particular green on-hand.

Thanks
 
Warrior108 said:
Just curious but are there any benefits of the Veritas/Lee Valley Green over the Bark River Green and how do they differ? Maybe you just already had that particular green on-hand.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Bark River green is advertised at 6000 grit, which is equivalent to an average particle size of 4 microns or between the 600/1k Edge Pro stones.

The Bark River green compound will cut more than the Veritas compound, but it is less useful for polishing/mirror finishing due to differences in average particle size (4 vs. 0.5).

I do have Bark River green on hand as well if you were interested in a piece using that particular compound.
 
That's interesting that you use a Edge Pro for sharpening convex blades. I didn't think it was appropriate to use a consistent angle sharpener for convex edges since it can change the blade profile. But I guess like you said it's taking it from a true convex to a compound double bevel at the edge.

It would be cool to see a video of you sharpening a convex blade but maybe that would give away your trade secrets Lol! I like to sharpen my own knives but I've never been good with freehand sharpening v grinds on a stone or touching up convex edges on sand paper. The consistent angle sharpeners for me are so much easier to get a razors edge. It would be cool to see how you do a convex knife. I've only ever done V-grinds.

Good luck with your business venture!
 
There are lots of great discussions here on Bladeforums about this topic:


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...V-Sharpening-Convex-Edges?highlight=convex+vs

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Cons-Convex-vs-Concave-vs-Flat-vs-Multi-Bevel

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1180540-The-Convex-Grind-Edge-Myth

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1147531-Convex-Grind-vs-Hollow-and-Flat-Grinds


twindog said:
...Draw any convex edge or blade grind you want. The edge or the blade will be bounded by three points: the apex and the two shoulders. If you connect those three points with two convex arcs, you'll have a convex edge/blade. If you connect those same three points with two straight lines, you'll have a V edge/FFG and all the metal within the FFG will be inside the arcs of the convex sides. That's what convex means.

...If the arcs that define the convex edge are acute, there can be a very large difference between the performance of a V edge and a convex edge, with the V edge cutting much better and the convex edge being more durable. If the arcs that define the convex edge are slight -- think the arc of a circle the size of the earth, there will be virtually no difference between the two edges because the convex edge will be almost exactly a V edge to anyone without an electron microscope.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
I had the opportunity to work on one of my own this morning, an Al Warren piece in CPM S30V. This one is set to 18 degrees per side and was stropped with the Veritas green compound.

FbSr9vr.jpg
 
Last edited:
Awesome! Congrats on your new venture! I love sharpening my knives to its a great way to feel "pure" for a little while. Good luck!
 
I am not a sharpening guru by any stretch, and don't want to derail this thread. I also don't want to get too far into a convex vs flat edge bevel debate, but feel compelled to add my $.02.

If TripleT knows what he is doing (and based on what I have heard, he definitely does), then the flat edge that he puts on knives will be both sharp and durable. I have put flat 18 dps edges on a bunch of my Fiddlebacks with my KME, and they work great. There are a TON of great conversations all over bladeforums.com about convex vs flat edges. There is NO consensus regarding which is "best." Also, a lot of convex edges that are not done with a grinder are a lot flatter than most people want to admit.

I wish TripleT all the best with his new business. Although I do most of my own sharpening, I will keep him in mind if I need any help. I am sure that he will do a great job!!
 
My knives are designed to be able to be sharpened with convex methods, or with flat edge methods. There is no harm using stones, rods, or any other HAND method. I designed this into my process at the very beginning because I've seen a lot of folks struggle with convex sharpening.
 
Can you explain what your lovely wife is doing with that angle grinder though. I tilted my head at the pic like a dog trying to figure something out, but it didn't help.
 
Andy received an example of TripleT's work.

It's very nice and sharp too!!:thumbup:
 
Andy received an example of TripleT's work.

It's very nice and sharp too!! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thank you, sir. Thank you very much. Feel free to use/abuse/throw it at the wall/make dinner/have fun with it.
 
Last edited:
The HB you sent me cleans hair off my arm very efficiently. Great job.
 
I sent my well used EDC II down to TripleT....let the fun begin!!!


Chris D.:D
 
Fiddleback said:
The HB you sent me cleans hair off my arm very efficiently. Great job.
Click to expand...

Awesome. I am still testing a bunch of different steels and hope that folks here will let me know if the edges hold up in field use.

I have to be careful shaving or arms will soon be bare. Plus, sometimes I miss, at which point edge testing becomes self-injurious behavior :eek: :ghost:

CAD said:
I sent my well used EDC II down to TripleT....let the fun begin!!!


Chris D.
Click to expand...

I thought this was a gift... I guess I'll have to buy my own EDC II now...
 
Last edited:
Sweet edges TripleT! Best of luck with the new venture.

Oh, and I see what you are doing here... Get her hooked on simple tools so when she unwraps that new table saw at Christmas she'll be smiling instead of rolling her eyes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top