Introduction and "The Devolution of Ax Handles"

The prompt and diverse response to the sharing of my “absolutist” views is much appreciated; it is a proof that the ax-using crowd is not asleep!

At the moment I can only provide bit of a general (rather than comprehensive individual and/or more specific) reply:

Within the material presented by me there will no doubt be some examples of concepts/ideas which represent strictly my personal quirks.

However, the issue of handle dimension discussed so far is meant to paint a partial picture of “how it used to be”, and how it has gradually changed (along with my own preference added for good measure). Whether -- with regard to handles -- we (the Vido family) as well as the old woodsmen of New Brunswick represent only some extremist faction of ax users, and should be disregarded as “impractical”, we’ll settle in due course by input from many other forum participants.

Interim, let me continue with the handle-related theme – which I was by no means finished with -- a little longer. More material is already waiting to be sent to Steve whenever we get to town with its magical high speed connection. Please also keep in mind that I can only spend so much time per day writing/reading (plus our laptop’s functionality is seriously limited by how much charge it can receive in cold weather) and this ax-related project represents but a small portion of our “daily duties”, computer-related and otherwise.

Thanks for understanding.

Peter

P.S.
Sometimes soon I would like to address the topic of the “ideal single ax”. What I mean is that if you had an option of only one ax to get by with in a serious (i.e. long term) survival situation, what size of an ax (or hatchet) would you choose? Yes, it would depend on whether you live in Florida (where folks consider an air conditioner more essential than a wood-fired heater) or the prairie (with no trees to cut) or some corner of northern Alaska (where it takes a lot of firewood to keep one’s ass warm). But can you start brainstorming that topic with reference to what climate zone you presently live in?
 
I read this post with intrest, because I remember the axes of my youth being slimer and having a better feel than what one can generaly buy today. With this in mind, and having landed an acceptable head from many searches of second hand stores, I decided to test this out.
The find was a Plumb hand axe. The head seemed much too big for the hatchet like handle it was hung on, but it had a great profile and was in exelent shape. I found a nice grained 27 inch hickory handle that was fairly strait. As I hung the head I remembered this post and took quite a lot of wood off each side of the handle to about 3/4 the total length. The handle tapered a large amount from bit to but as turned. I used sharp knives, sanding disk on my 4 1/2 high speed grinder, and a random orbit sander to get the job done.
All in all I left about 3mm of wood around the axe eye and just blended the taper into the remainder of the handle so there where no high spots. I took it out and used it for the first time today and I can say WOW, that's what I remember an axe feeling like. It feels so good in my hand I actually am contemplating taking the same action on my Husky axe! Perhaps I will get to put some real time on it as the year goes by!

If you hang the handles yourself you may want to give this one a try!:D
 
I just got a 42 inch handle for a double bit, octagon grip on the handle. It is about 1/2 the thickness overall of todays double bit handles. I couldnt believe it. I guess this one I have they quit making around 1950 (not 100% on that), but none the less, when you look at it you think it is way to skinny, but when it is in your hands, it is all you need and then some. Ill have to post a pic tomorrow.
 
...I decided to test this out...took quite a lot of wood off each side of the handle..I used sharp knives, sanding... I took it out and used it for the first time today and I can say WOW, that's what I remember an axe feeling like. It feels so good in my hand I actually am contemplating taking the same action on my Husky axe!...If you hang the handles yourself you may want to give this one a try!:D

Thanks for trying this out and letting us know your results.:thumbup:

Handle thinning can also be easily done on axes with the heads already attached.
An upcoming post will show this being done using a khukuri knife.
It's almost finished, here's a preview:

IMGP2081.jpg
 
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Your picture looks much like what I did to remove the most of the wood. I just chucked the protected head end in my vise and batoned a large butcher knife along the sides of the handle, being carefull not to go too deep. I don't see why one couldn't use a draw knife as well. Then it was off to the high speed sander and random orbit to finish.
I did split some wood today and it handeled great! Now I just need to find a full size single bit head that needs a home and put a full size handle on her!;)
 
Steve - if you see this I would like to talk to you about my 42 inch handle I got. Pick your brain so to say.

Thanks.
 
Steve - ...I would like to talk to you...Pick your brain so to say...

You (or anyone) can leave a comment on an axeconnected.blogspot.com post, include your email address and I'll get back to you. (I moderate comments there and I won't post it).

I couldn't send you a message through this forum (I think you and/or I disabled this feature, or we're not paying members, or something).

Steve
 
You (or anyone) can leave a comment on an axeconnected.blogspot.com post, include your email address and I'll get back to you. (I moderate comments there and I won't post it).

I couldn't send you a message through this forum (I think you and/or I disabled this feature, or we're not paying members, or something).

Steve

Here is the handle. I put in a comparison new handle with a double bit head on it. With my pictures it is tough to get the absolute picture from the scenario, but what you said is exemplified in the comparison between the two handles. The old handle has an octagon handle pattern, giving an excellent grip. It is also 6 inches longer [old = 42 inch, new = 36 inch] than the new handle (the new handle was purchased at Home Depot by my old man about 6 months ago). The thickness on the old handle is 11/16 in the middle of the handle, and up at the shoulder 1 inch, as close i can tell. Then new handle measures about 15/16 in the middle, and about 1 1/4 inch at the shoulder. Plus the grain is 100% wrong on the new handle.

I guess this old handle hasnt been made since around the 1950s. It is as clean as a whistle and I have an itch so bad to suit it up and use it, but I can't bring myself to. All the other older handles I have are also thin compared to anything I see from today. You would think it would be the other way around. Sorry about the pics, they are quite up to par.
 

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Here is the handle...The thickness on the old handle is 11/16 in the middle of the handle, and up at the shoulder 1 inch, as close i can tell. Then new handle measures about 15/16 in the middle, and about 1 1/4 inch at the shoulder. Plus the grain is 100% wrong on the new handle...

Your old handle thickness of 11/16" translates to 17mm, which is consistent with Peter's old handle thicknesses of 16mm and 18mm. The new handle is a quarter-inch thicker.


I guess this old handle hasnt been made since around the 1950s. It is as clean as a whistle and I have an itch so bad to suit it up and use it, but I can't bring myself to. All the other older handles I have are also thin compared to anything I see from today...


I think this handle of yours is for big axe heads and huge trees (Paul Bunyan comes to mind). Might be hard to find a suitable head so you don't "waste" this rare handle.

For a great wallhanger, you could put this head of yours on the handle. Then you could see it everyday, show it off and swing it around sometimes;)

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Among the few comments thus far to The De-Evolution of Ax Handles, the one most crying for a response is from rg598 aka "Woodtrekker", a man committed to informing the public on ax-related matters. But this time he did not say anything imminently useful –- and I would not have taken time to respond at all, were it not for his needless disparaging of an excellent treatise, one which, in my view, belongs on the bookshelf of every serious student of the ax. Here is what he had to say:


The article is very well written and informative, but I’m not a big fan of telling people what the ultimate truth is about anything. The reality is that all experienced outdoorsmen disagree on just about everything, and in the history of axes, we would be hard pressed to find two people who agreed on anything, let alone handles...


Some food for thought to the trekking man:

As a prelude to the rebuttal that your kind of comments call for, let me express some regret that the person a short time ago I hoped might become a creative “Gespraechspartner” on the subject of axes, now turns out to be a sparring partner instead. (For the benefit of English speakers: the literal translation of this common German term is “a debating partner”. However,
the debate meant here is not of the kind politicians usually indulge in; your “Gespraechspartner” is not your critic per se but rather a useful two-way conduit for an exchange and refinement of ideas.)

That hope stemmed from the fact that we obviously have some deep-rooted commonalities: both born and raised in close to the same spot of the globe (and under the communist rule to boot), far away from the culture we live in now. The axes that both our grandfathers used and/or those we had a chance to try out as teenagers were still a far cry from what most American
ax-men had already been using for well over a century. We both seem to “dance to the beat of different drummers”, rather than following the herd along the mainstream path –- and for that reason we both question much of what we are told.

I’ve always sought and appreciated differing points of view, spun them over in my mind (sometimes letting them ferment over a long period of time) -- and learned much by it all. When I began to “pick the brains” of the seasoned country folk (first in Ontario and, as of 1976, here in New Brunswick) I quickly realized that it was better to talk less and listen more. Though they all were mostly very likable and unassuming, the old New Brunswick men in particular were certainly a strongly opinionated lot. “That ain’t no good for nothing” was one of their common expressions. But in areas where they had far more experience than I, it would have been foolish to write them off too quickly and not continue hearing what they had to share.

Unfortunately, you perceived my, as well as Dudley Cook’s, sharing as a threatening voice from some pulpit of truth –- and reacted accordingly. May the woodland faeries forgive you! I will be less nice, however, because from any which angle I view your words, what I mostly perceive is: this fellow is determined to argue, period.

To briefly summarize some of what you contested -- but which did not at all appear in my article:

1. The words “ultimate”, “truth”, “the exact right proportions” and “never”.

2. Stating that a 1975 commercial version –- or any other specific size/design of an ax handle -- is some ideal version for everyone to copy.

3. That nobody still makes very thin handles.

4. “...that two handles from the same material (could not) have the same springiness even though they are different thicknesses.”
(A hint: it would have been more accurate if you had said "species of wood" instead of “material”; the same material, technically speaking, implies –- besides the sharing of other characteristics -- the same springiness. With regard to what you were attempting to express -– yes, you are right. However, my piece was an introduction only to a rather large subject –- one
I’m by no means finished with.)

5. That a curved handle represents some new post-vanilla ice cream flavor.
(The American curved handles have been around for over a century and a half. Besides, the article is meant as practical advice on what people can do now.)

Combined, those were a lot of paper dragons to fight... (or "straw men"...)

Now to your actual comments: Already in your first sentence you make a gross overstatement, which then seems to form the basis for the rest of your remarks. Coincidently, in your next sentence you put your foot in your mouth. (Have you considered what exactly the difference is between “...the ultimate truth is...” and “The reality is...”)

Because it could take us further away than necessary from the theme of axes, I won’t dwell on your reference to the “experienced outdoorsmen”. As for the rest of that paragraph -- your statement “...in the history of axes, we would be hard pressed to find two people who agreed on anything, let alone handles” is simply humbug.

Based on my travels and extensive interactions with farmers in various countries, I happen to have a bit of background in the realm of the design of agricultural hand tools. Whether I examine axes found on several-generations-old homesteads in Switzerland, Austria, Germany or Slovakia, it is evident that there is actually an uncanny “cultural homogeneity” when it comes to handles – and it is the same with scythes (my special interest), hay and manure forks, hoes or shovels, both in Europe as well as here in North America.

Although with the proliferation of the chain stores this formerly strong regional uniformity has become somewhat diluted, it still exists for the most part. This, if anything, speaks of consensus – not between any two people, but hundreds (in many cases thousands) of them. Agreements on many issues (including tool design) were, in fact, both practical and necessary because historically there was very little room within the working segment of any society to indulge in the kind of individualism we can presently exercise in this “land of milk and honey”.

(Still, your own ax is outfitted with an industrially-made handle, which not you but someone else decided on the exact dimensions of. That someone is already at least one person you agree with on the issue of handle size –- and you share this agreement further with the thousands of others who now use their Granfors axes without having altered the handles in any way. In my view, this is a statement to the fact that agreements between people are far more frequent than you are willing to admit. Examples of this sort are plentiful indeed.)

Furthermore, contrary to what you say (“....for a large part of its history, the axe was hung on hand made handles designed based on family tradition”), most families did not make their own tool handles. I do not see a reason to delve here into the ax’s entire existence (from the stone age on), but during the last several centuries in each village or settlement there was a man, or several, who made tool handles for the whole extended countryside community, simply because they could do it more efficiently. Yes, a (smaller) portion of handles were always made by their users, and still are; nevertheless they too adhere to the respective cultural tradition regarding the basic design and material dimension. The personal touch was/is mostly
confined to decorative carving, or details such as the specific shape of a snath’s grip, for instance, rather than alteration of anything fundamental.

In most of Europe a knob on an ax handle is a relatively recent introduction; in many parts still non-existent. Had it been otherwise each knob would likely be a recognizable feature matching the handle to its maker, be he a grandfather serving only one family’s needs, or a professional tradesman.

In the much more culturally intermixed North America the situation was somewhat different, at least in the beginning when new immigrants had to be more self-reliant. Yet eventually some solid agreements were reached, even here. By the time the ax industry was in full bloom, thousands of handles were manufactured commercially –- and to certain “agreed upon” specs. The handle patterns varied greatly, the total length less so and the dimension of the shaft the least. Many companies made only two thickness sizes – regular and slim. Some added extra slim.

Did most lumberjacks customize the shaft thickness of purchased handles? I do not know, but having to date come across no written evidence to that effect, I don’t think this was the case. Then and now, people are known to generally accept many things as they are presented to them without ever trying an alternative. Yes, yes, there are exceptions though I think that
this is the rule. (And it is precisely the insidious nature of some of similar “rules” – in this case the blind acceptance of ever stiffer handles – that my De-Evolution article addresses.)

I had included a remark that I was surprised to find the dimension of the three photographed samples (made by three different men) to be all the same. Though I had long known that a slim handle was the rule around here I hadn’t measured a heap of them at once – until recently – and it was yet another case of ”agreement”.

There were still about a dozen small-scale ax handle makers within a 20 mile radius of our farm when we moved here in 1980. Only two of them used lathes; the rest did it freehand. I knew several of them personally, and have samples of their work; all are within 1mm from each other in width and thickness.

If you asked these men how thick an ax handle ought to be, most would likely just say “pretty thin”; if pressed for actual size of “thin”, it might be “Oh, about 3/4”. In reality their handles –- made mostly of rock maple or ash (hickory doesn’t grow here) -- were a shade thinner than that. And they did not, as a rule, make “...different thickness handles...” to accommodate different “size of hands, arms, etc..” (Neither does Granfors Bruks nor Wetterlings for that matter...) Whether this was a serious shortcoming I don’t know. Suffice it to say that some short men with small hands, as well as those with bear-like stature, all used them with apparent satisfaction. Perhaps they were too dumb to know that they are all individuals entitled to a very tailor-fit ax handle... and some of the poor buggers consequently ended up with them “inappropriately-sized”.

Now, as to your help with clarifying the concept of “too much” -- of course, a tool handle can be made too light and/or too springy – and I did not claim otherwise (though I did not know that “too much give is worse than too little”). However, to extrapolate as you do -- without being specific –- is, in the context of this discussion, quite useless. If instead, you had stated, for instance, that you consider a 16x33, or even 18x36 mm handle section too limber for say a 3½ lb head (especially if it is over 30” long) but perhaps OK on a 2 lb head (and if made of first grade hickory) it might do for the average person (but not the kind of forceful chopping you indulge in) –- or something along those lines -- you’d be providing what I consider constructive feedback. That is what I asked for and hoped to receive.

As it is, your buckshot comments indicate that you probably have not actually seriously used an ax with the handle dimensions close to the slim ones I listed.

Beyond sharing that my family has over a period of years regularly used -– not just quickly “tested” -- some uncommonly thin handles, I offered dimensions of concrete examples. But let’s discount the validity of our experience -– maybe my daughters, my son and I are all wimps, reluctant to “use an ax with force”.

Still, you question whether those unknown-to-you old men had it “exactly right”. What I can say in response is though you can rant all you want about some arbitrarily too springy handles, the functionality of the local standards was proven by the fact that thousands of trees were felled by them. The supposed eccentrics who swung them probably represented one of the last
segments of this continent’s serious axmen.

As some readers may know, New Brunswick is a somewhat backwards province of Canada, with about 80% of its surface in forest, and where the first awkward chainsaws weren’t introduced until the mid-to-late fifties. The old woodcutters weren’t enamored of the initial models because the chainsaws wouldn’t start on cold mornings nor after they became somewhat hot in use, and the men here famously joke how the chain moved so slow while cutting that you could file it at the same time. So the ax did its share of work long after that.

In any event, still only a couple of generations ago many a farm-raised boy of 14 or so quit school and joined his father for a wintertime spell in one of the many lumber camps. The tradition here was that with the first solid ground freeze (usually early November) the average small farmer left the homestead in the care of his wife and children to become a seasonal lumberjack. Sometimes he returned home for Christmas and left again shortly thereafter to stay in the camp until the spring break-up.

In the lumber camp the men had breakfast and harnessed the horses by the light of the kerosene lanterns. They were in the woods ready to swing the axes at the crack of dawn. In the evening (again by the lantern) the axes were re-shaped – “from eye to the bit” – on large sandstone grindstones, to make sure they met the old Canadian standard of severing a 4 inch trunk
(usually the treetop) in no more than two strokes and sinking half way up the bit if driven cross-grain into green wood.

Felling 50 trees per man was a common daily quota. So clearly, those were working men whose livelihood was dependent on axes. Yet, on top of being uncommonly thin, their handles didn’t have what you call “power steering” (they used exclusively the double-bitted models) and God only knows how much of what you call “wrist rotating” they consequently had to accept in order to accomplish what they did. (I must admit to being stumped as to what you are talking about.)

Could it be that the difference between you -- taught to use force in a typical “Western” manner -- and them was that, though living long way from China, they grasped the principles of Tai-chi when it came to axmanship??

[To be immediately continued]
 
(continued from post immediately above)

Now, as for my defense of Dudley Cook and the book of his you probably haven’t yet read: In a broad sense, people lacking strong opinions rarely, if ever, write comprehensive books on any technical subject. (At the moment I can't think of even one.) The merit of opinions can be settled "in the pudding". Yet you evidently did not even read the book, never mind test its theories during serious work before you lashed out at its author. That, my comrade, is your problem not his...

You see, as a lifetime ax user and a man who could write about it (many master ax men did not even try), in good style as well as humor, Mr. Cook deserves an open and receptive audience for whatever opinions he presents. That, in any event, is my unwavering view.

In addition, I must remind you that neither he nor I stated that a straight handle will automatically make a good ax, nor that a curved handle is hopelessly “bad”. I have settled my preference by trying a multitude of examples in both versions.

His explanation is based on the principles of physics, period. The laws of physics have been, and will continue to be defied -– occasionally with success, more often with mixed results or outright failures. Since you claim to be so happy with the curved handle, yours may be one of the success stories -- and it is certainly your prerogative to swing axes hung on handles that are curved, as well as adequately stiff.

(There is no indication, though, that you seriously tried a good version of the North American style straight handle on an ax head you are already familiar with. Sorry, the Bulgarian axes with their straight handles don’t count.)

Furthermore, it is evident by some of what you say here (as well as in your blog on the subject of axes) that your experience with certain aspects of this theme is limited. Dudley Cook covers at least some of them better than did anyone else whose ax-related writing I’ve been privileged to read.

Provided you manage to drop any ultimate-related paranoia, my advice would be that you obtain a copy of that opinionated book ASAP. You "owe" it to yourself -- and even more to the readers of your ax reviews. (Before your unfortunate rant, I might have proposed a bet of several of the best axes money can buy today that you would not regret doing so...)

Besides, The Ax Book, if read carefully, is not that scary -– even to the people whose religion is “never say never”. You did not read that book's excerpt carefully, for nowhere in it does the word “NEVER” (which you capitalized) appear even once.

The closest that Cook came to saying that was “It [the curved handle] is substantially less accurate than the straight handle.” –- a reasonable way to put it. In the same excerpt he also gives due credit to our potential adaptability (“...the human body is a marvelous machine. It can adapt to nearly anything.”) -– which is precisely what your computer analogy
accuses him of not doing.

I rest my case.

Sincerely,
Peter.
 
Dear Peter,

Thank you for taking the time to put together this breathtakingly verbose response to my post. I have to admit up front, you have clearly demonstrates that you are far more eloquent than I, and certainly much more willing to use a thesaurus than I am. I apologize for any syntax errors I made in my original post, and your thoughtful corrections have been taken into account. For your consideration however, I would like to offer the following chart:

untitled.jpg


I did my best to extract any arguments from the above diatribe, and while I admit I may have missed many because my grasp of the language is quite evidently not on par with yours, I was not able to find any arguments or comments that directly addressed any of the points that I was making.

My original comment simply critiqued the absolutist position taken in “Keeping Warm With an Ax”, specifically the portion you quoted.

“This is the most damning case against the curved handle. It is substantially less accurate than a straight handle.

However, the human body is a marvelous machine. It can adapt to nearly anything. If the handle of a golf club were shaped like a pretzel, some people would still play golf. A chopper soon adapts himself to a curved ax handle even though that handle is designed to frustrate accuracy. The chopper acts as if there were a straight axis throughout the entire length of the handle, even though there is not.

But this unconscious adaptation has a price. Use of the curved handle requires more practice to cut well. And even with practice, the chopper cannot attain the results possible with a straight handle.”


If you do not think that the above quote, placed within an article titled “The Devolution of Ax Handles” presents a rather strong view in support of one position over another, than maybe we are just on different pages. I have no problem with you holding that particular view, but I don’t see why you can not address critical comments to this theory. After all, you did read the whole book, and took the time to write the post. If on the other hand you are uncertain about the validity of the theory you presented, and were simply offering it as food for thought, then I apologize, as clearly my criticism would have been misdirected.

The points I raised serve to highlight potential flaws in the theory. Each example I gave does not have to be true all of the time. Even if true some of the time, it highlights flaws in a theory which holds that a straight handle is always better than a curved one. (“And even with practice, the chopper cannot attain the results possible with a straight handle.”) For example, pointing out that not every family made its own handles, but rather that they were made by one or two people in each village, doesn’t actually address the substantive part of my point. I would be happy to concede that, as I have no data to speak with such level of specificity. My challenge to the theory however still stands in that there was no uniformity significant enough to provide empirical evidence for the theory. Similarly, the fact that most companies do not make different thickness handles does not address the point that depending on the wood used and on the user, a thicker handle might be preferable. I think you perceive a strawman argument because you are underestimating what it takes to defend a theory stated as strongly as yours.

In my post I pointed out several examples where Cook’s theory would not hold true. I also pointed out several flaws in your research methods. My Cook’s understanding of physics aside, even if we assume all his representations to be correct, his conclusions do not necessarily follow from the data/mathematics he presents. That’s all. If you can address those issues and clarify the theory, I will be happy to be convinced that straight handles are superior to curved ones. As it stands, the argument is not sound. Regardless of what you think of me, or how many books you’ve read, the argument stands or falls on its merits, not on which one of us it the cooler guy, or can write the longest posts. I have nothing invested in the outcome of the argument. I am only pointing out what I see as flaws with the theory. If they can be addressed to my satisfaction, then I would be glad to concede. If interested, I can offer some more, but I fear they will result in even more tangential attacks on my experience and character.

The volume of your post was directed at me personally rather than in support of the theory or in the presentation of any substantive counter argument. You have criticized my comprehension of the English language; you criticized my level of experience, even though you know nothing about me just because I disagreed with you; and you demeaned my past experiences in my prior country of residence. You then continued to support your arguments by repeatedly stating how much experience you have, how many people you have spoken to, and a lovely piece on the history and beauty of your part of the world, while the whole time failing to address any of the points I raised directly. Rest assured, none of my comments were directed at you as a person or an esteemed intellectual, but were rather addressed at the theory that was being presented. I would be happy to respond to any substantive argument you may have in defense of said theory. I refuse to spend any more time pulling out “axe credentials” and fluffing each other’s ego with unconfirmable statements about who has spoken to more old timers and whose kids are greater or stronger. After all, we are not politicians.

I ask for a favor. You started you response to me by explaining that in your vast travels in the course of your study, you learned that it is better to talk less and listen more. I agree with you completely, and beg of you to take my lack of education and experience into consideration and keep the argument short and concise. I would be happy to address any substantive points that deal with arguments I have made, or any verifiable data in support of yours. I however refuse to spend any more time in debates on character, or fluff pieces about "that old guy who used to use axes a lot, who I poke to and he told me that when he was young..." I don't think any of the other mebers are interested in our ego battles, and clearly we both have rather large egos that get bruised easily, not to mention our uncanny ability to write longer posts than anyone cares to read.

Very truly yours,

Ross
http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/
 
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I don't have enough personal experience with using straight handles to give a very meaningful opinion of them.

Though I did recently find the "Axe Manual of Peter McLaren, America's Champion Chopper", a book published in the 1930's by the Plumb Company. (It's available online as a downloadable .pdf file.)

I realize that this is anecdotal, but it's interesting to see that the photos of Mr. McLaren chopping show him "choking up" from the curved end of the handle so that his hands grip the straight part. This is pretty clear in Figures 19, 22, and 23:

axe_manual006.jpg

http://scoutmaster.typepad.com/photos/the_axe_manual_of_peter_m/axe_manual006.html

axe_manual007.jpg

http://scoutmaster.typepad.com/photos/the_axe_manual_of_peter_m/axe_manual007.html

Seems like he'd have his choice of whatever axe that Plumb made, so I figure that he's not doing this because he couldn't get a shorter handle. Maybe he does this because using the curved part of the handle reduces accuracy.

Here's the link to the .pdf file:
http://www.bushcraftuk.com/downloads/pdf/mclarenmanual.pdf
 
I don't have enough personal experience with using straight handles to give a very meaningful opinion of them.

Though I did recently find the "Axe Manual of Peter McLaren, America's Champion Chopper", a book published in the 1930's by the Plumb Company. (It's available online as a downloadable .pdf file.)

I realize that this is anecdotal, but it's interesting to see that the photos of Mr. McLaren chopping show him "choking up" from the curved end of the handle so that his hands grip the straight part. This is pretty clear in Figures 19, 22, and 23:

Seems like he'd have his choice of whatever axe that Plumb made, so I figure that he's not doing this because he couldn't get a shorter handle. Maybe he does this because using the curved part of the handle reduces accuracy.

I'm pretty sure that during that time Plumb made both types of handles, so he could have bought a straight handle one if he wanted, but I could be wrong. He could be doing that because he doesn't like the curved part of the handle, or he could be doing it because the handle is too long for bucking. That's exactly what I do with full size axes. In the other pictures where he is chopping, he is holding the axe like most of us do, with one hand on the end of the curved handle and the other further up the handle. A shorter handle would have limited his chopping ability.

It could be the case that McLaren was trying to bypass the curved part of the handle, or one could use the same pictures to assert that he is clearly using an axe with a curved handle, so that must be his preference. I have no idea which one is correct. If I remember correctly, he did not mention anywhere in the book, including the section on rehanging an axe, that a straight handle is better than a curved one.

In fact, considering that Plumb made a custom axe head with an image of McLaren on it, and published his book, I'm sure they would have made him a custon handle of his choosing. He seems to have consistently gone with the curved one (from what I've seen).

I think that if we try to look for anecdotal evidence for what type of handle is best, we can go back and forth for the next decade, and we'll be in the exact same spot. The only place where I have seen the assertion that one type is better than the other is in Keeping Warm With an Ax. All other sources such as the forestry service and axe manufacturers seem to think that it is a wash.

Like I've said, I don't think there is any measurable advantage to either type. I think the degree of error in each person's swing far outweighs any advantage either handle can provide (assuming the physics in Keeping Warm With an Ax are correct, a curved handle would do as much to correct an error as to exaggerate it depending on the direction of the error).

The physics presented in Keeping Warm With an Ax are very basic, and leave out a lot of data and I don't believe lead to the conclussion asserted in the OP. Since the last exchange between Peter and I did not address any substantive arguments, I'll mention some of the counter arguments with respect to the physics here:

1. Even if the data is correct, and a curved handle exaggerates any movement of the wrists, that does not mean that such a handle is less accurate. In fact, the opposite can be argued. You can achieve the exact same results with a lesser movement of the wrists. This allows for more accurate adjustments without significant wrist movement. This saves energy, allows for better control, and the application of more force.

2. A straight handle requires the user to bend his wrists right before the impact in order to bring the bit to bear. A curved handle allows the bit to reach closer to the wood while keeping the wrists in a more natural position. This allows for better joint allignment and allows for better use of force.

3. The physics in Keeping Warm With an Ax fails to account for the fact that while the vector of the force is similar to what you would see on an axe with a longer bit, the actual force is transfered through the eye, and not the point where the vector intersects the theoretical head. How exactly does that effect the accuracy and force of a swing? I have no idea, but I do know that it is a lot more complicated than the book outlines.

4. The book assumes some type of theoretical swing with an axe where the person holds the handle at the end with both hands like a club. That is not how most people swing an axe (from what I've seen). It is unclear how this theoretical information translates to actual use.

5. Even if the curved handle exaggerates movement in the wrists, it is hard to say if that will hurt or help accuracy. That would depend on what errors the person commits. For example, if the error is that the person fails to provide enough angle in the swing, then the curved handle will exaggerate that and lead to the head hitting the wood at the proper angle. Wether over a certain statistically significant number of swings the "errors" lead to better or worse performance will require a significant amount of data, which so far has not been provided.

6. I sort of covered the issue of different materials (woods for you Peter), but it is also something to consider. This relates more to the thickness of handles than the shape.

7. As far as what history tells us, I find it hard to believe that starting in the 1850 all the famous manufacturers switched to curved handles for no reason even though they were not as good, and harder to produce, and then retained the design for the next 150 years for no reason. But then again, the history might have no bearing on which handle is better. There are many factors that come into play that don't always relate to effective use. Just something to consider though. I know, I know, the logging industry had already moved to double bit axes, but still, I find it a bit strange that none of those people mentioned to the axe manufacturers that they hate curved handles, and neither did any of the people Peter has been interviewing.

None of this is to say that curved handles are best. I'm just trying to point out that I can make just as many arguments to support the opposite position. In the end I think it makes no difference but comes down to personal preference. There is nothing wrong with liking one design over the other. For example, like you said, Bernie Weisgerber, in an Ax to Grind states that he prefers straight octagonal handles. He does not assert that they are somehow superior, only that he personally likes them. I like curved handles more, probably because I have been using them longer. I could be wrong, this is just my thoughts. These are the things that bother me about the theory that is being presented in the OP. It just seems to have some rather large holes. If anyone wishes to explain why I am wrong without just saying "you don't know what you are talking about" or "you clearly don't use axes seriously" or "the axes you use don't count" or "I expected more from you", etc., then I would love to work through it in a constructive manner. Steve, this is in no way directed at you. You are good people and your arguments are always good and on point. This last part is some left over diatribe directed at you know who. :)

Ross
http://woodtrekker.blogspot.com/
 
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...Steve, this is in no way directed at you. You are good people...

And I think that Ross, and Peter, are good people.

I'd like to bring us back to the conclusion of the original post, which encourages trying for yourselves:

"There you have it – try a straighter (as well as slimmer) handle; you will likely enjoy the ax-work more and also be more efficient!"
 
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