It followed me home (Part 2)

BamaDADx3 said:
Can anyone verify if a diamond/triangle shape stamp with Wheeling inside is Warwood tool Company? It's on an old grub hoe/forest adze.I. . .
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ebay listing:

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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Col...556539?hash=item48959a34bb:g:FfYAAOSw-0xYNxyM

Bob
 
well, you guys remember my legitimus right? well, i couldnt find it for a while, well i found it. on the bright side legitimus swamper steel is stainless or it had enough patina somehow but no rust after a few weeks outside
 
guys im a little busy to get pictures now but i found some rust spots so i think its just rust-resistant, but still, i was lookin for that thing since mid november and only three raindrop size spots. and its rained quite a bit
 
300Six said:
You never know; the Crown logo just might feature an atypical number of points too, and perhaps a possessive apostrophe on the Collin.
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Wasn't 440C the only rust-resistant steel back then worth even looking at for cutlery, regarded as the high-end choice even for custom knives? If so, I expect it was carrying a hefty price tag as well. If my recall is on point, I'd say no chance for these to be rust-resistant in the proper sense of the word.

What I found out, though, is that various carbon-steels (and finish grades) behave quite differently...O1 drives me crazy, it rusts even if you look at it wrong, and O2 which I thought would be just as bad (based on composition), for some reason is surprisingly resistant (with the mention that the O2 is in fact the Bohler K720; I know O2's composition varies somewhat between what you have in US and here in Europe).
 
The only evidence of corrosion resistant steels I've ever seen on 100 year old tools is Winchester rifle barrels that are marked 'nickel steel'.
 
Some premium axes were made with chrome vanadium steel which would import some slight rust resistance to them because of the high chrome content. They still rust, just a little slower than plain carbon steels.
 
Square_peg said:
Some premium axes were made with chrome vanadium steel which would import some slight rust resistance to them because of the high chrome content. They still rust, just a little slower than plain carbon steels.
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I'll be darned! Below is an Austrian H-G-W (probably from the 1950s) that I've had for almost 30 years. Decal at the eye says Chrom Vanadium as does the etch down near the edge of the blade. If it wasn't such a foreign-feeling shape to me (blade is way too long and thin) I'd have probably been using it.

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This one followed me home recently, Warren Old Faithful rafting axe. It has some mushrooming of the poll but the eye isn't damaged.

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Here it is alongside a NOS Dreadnaught for size comparison. The Old Faithful is 4.66 pounds. The Dreadnaught is 4.83 pounds.

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Found an old Council Axe today for $3.00 and just couldn't pass it by. It has seen a lot use and may be a little beat up but hated to see it sitting there rusting in a bunch of old jumbled tools. So I picked it up and figured I'd see if I could help bring a few more years to its life. I took the wire wheel to get some of the rust off, washed it with Dawn, and then coated it with a light coat of oil.

I am not familiar with all the Council axes. Can anyone help with a make on this one? I can see that it is marked with "Something Pride". Any info would greatly be appreciated.

Also should I leave the edge as is with just a filing or should I try to even it out? I do plan on rehanging it.

-Rick



Before:

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After:

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Makers Mark:

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T2 Tappin'
 
Looks like Pickett's Pride. See the sabre? I don't know about using that head or sharpening it. I'd hang it and then hang it up. Nice find for $3.
 
@jblyttle thank you for the info. I will probably be taking that advice on rehanging it and then use it for show as is. I just couldn't post it by for $3. Hopefully I'll be able to find some vintage heads that are issuance in my area.

T2 Tappin'
 
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