It followed me home (Part 2)

jblyttle said:
Different stuff today, including a Flint Edge cruiser and a 150lb crane weight. I don't know why I bought it but the whole lot was $85. The massive 8" static vise jaw is for a friend that does vise restorations- he told me that he could use it. For scale, look at it next to the 150lb weight. Big vise!

IMG_20171110_121004 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20171110_115941 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20171110_120519 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
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How much is the shipping on 150 lbs item?? But seriously, what are those 7, i guess, bits and grey painted item?
 
crbnSteeladdict said:
But seriously, what are those 7, i guess, bits .....?
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jblyttle said:
They are leather punches.
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We use them for punching a hole in carpet before drilling with a roto-hammer. If your roto-hammer bits binds up a carpet thread then it will pull a 3-foot line in the carpet before you can stop. Avoid costly carpet repairs by punching first. You can improvise a carpet hole punch by sharpening a piece of electrical conduit.
 
Anywhere between $1 and $4. If more is asked,you may want to then look into some modern cast-steel anvils,as it'll then be approaching their prices.
(but minus the better modern alloys,heat-treatment,assorted guarantees et c.)
 
The days of $1/pound anvils are long gone. Figure to pay a minimum of $3/pound. Try not to go to or over $4/pound unless the anvil is from a known quality maker and in very good condition. I bought mine 6 years ago for $2.35/pound with a horn that needed a little welding and a top that needed a little milling but overall good condition - easy repairs.
 
Yes,what Square_peg says,and don't be afraid to do a bit of repair,on edges especially.

Outside of starting a dedicated Anvil thread it's difficult to put all the info in a few sentences.

I'd say make sure that the anvil is Alive(has rebound),that,if it's WI,it's face-plate is not too saddled,and that the face is,or can be made,smooth(as in polished,ideally).

One more thing-don't be shy of old American cast-iron jobs like Vulcan or Fischer,the trend would have them as an inferior article,and it's pure baloney.
They make an Excellent tool,i've had nearly 20 happy productive years with my 100# Vulcan.They're easily repairable,and in all ways practical and to the point.
And mine was nearly destroyed by the previous owner(USAF:)...In a very common way:Non-users of anvils often believe that edges must be 90 deg.all around and sharp,it's a fallacy.
Such edges will ruin your work by nicking,and destroy themselves,taking chips out of the face along with them.All edges(with Possible exception of a few inches on the counter,IF you needs it),must be radiused.Commonly,the radius varying from 1/8" to about 1/2" towards the horn.
 
Hickory n steel said:
Do my eyes deceive me, or is that a trigger group out of a rifle ?
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seems to be something out of a small rifle.

by the way, anybody know what the small hammer heads underneath the skillets are? i think they're for sheet metal/autobody. i picked one up a while ago to serve as a flatter when i forge but the eye is stamped upside down with a harsh angle on the walls. it pinches in at the top drastically at whati'd guess to be about 20 degrees
 
phantomknives said:
seems to be something out of a small rifle.

by the way, anybody know what the small hammer heads underneath the skillets are? i think they're for sheet metal/autobody. i picked one up a while ago to serve as a flatter when i forge but the eye is stamped upside down with a harsh angle on the walls. it pinches in at the top drastically at whati'd guess to be about 20 degrees
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Moving sheet metal would be my first guess.
The top one looks similar to a Goldsmith's hammer or a type of cobblers hammer, but I'm no expert.
 
phantomknives said:
seems to be something out of a small rifle.

by the way, anybody know what the small hammer heads underneath the skillets are? i think they're for sheet metal/autobody. i picked one up a while ago to serve as a flatter when i forge but the eye is stamped upside down with a harsh angle on the walls. it pinches in at the top drastically at whati'd guess to be about 20 degrees
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Yes, a trigger assembly, and tbose are cobbler/leatherworking heads.
 
jblyttle said:
Yes, a trigger assembly, and tbose are cobbler/leatherworking heads.
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Cobblers was a suspicion.

Btw do you have any idea what kind of rifle that trigger group goes to ?
It appears to me that it may be from some sort of a rifle with a magazine tube, possibly rimfire.
 
Square_peg said:
The days of $1/pound anvils are long gone. Figure to pay a minimum of $3/pound. Try not to go to or over $4/pound unless the anvil is from a known quality maker and in very good condition. I bought mine 6 years ago for $2.35/pound with a horn that needed a little welding and a top that needed a little milling but overall good condition - easy repairs.
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Thanks for the information. All 3 anvils went for around $300 each. I could easily pick up 2 of them. The other was a fat anvil that someone said was made in England. It looked like the oldest one out of the 3. I could pick it up but it wasn't easy.
 
jblyttle said:
This was what I though it would be a 5-10 minute yard sale stop. I ended up being there for 3 hours digging. Old hoarders house, family was cleaning out his "crap". I paid $120 for everything you see.

IMG_20171111_141335 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20171111_141357 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
IMG_20171111_141348 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
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i see 2 new handles ....somewhere on the bottom of milk crate lay 2 lonely axe heads begging to be rescued :-) ...Go back to that garage sale:-)
That longer axe handle looks weird ..is it hand made?
 
jblyttle jblyttle , imagine what you could do if you actually applied yourself! ;)*


*Very much in jest - you probably have enough railroad track to run a course from your driveway to the industrial ramp into your basement. That would save your back lol.
 
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