It followed me home (Part 2)

[Miller '72]

I figured it was a Collins produced axe.
Pretty sure that like mine it's a late production pre Mann Collins axe.
As far as I've seen the Mann produced Collins / homestead axes were flat cheeked.
Mine which is currently not hung has a nice thin bit, mostly because it does have convex cheeks but not a super high centerline.

You are right again, this one is pre Mann, good cheeks, higher center, not super high but good.

 

[rjdankert]

A Millers Falls No. 14 with a two piece cap and all its chrome for twenty. Happy with this score!

Bob

 

[Yankee Josh]

Got this little hatchet two days ago. Not used to seeing homestead without Collins being there too?

I bought this one about a hour ago. I believe it used to say "the hall manufacturing co". The town is missing but you can still see Maine. 8-1/2"long with 3-7/8" bits.

Pretty psyched about finding another old Maine axe!

 

[Maine20]

Got this little hatchet two days ago. Not used to seeing homestead without Collins being there too?

I bought this one about a hour ago. I believe it used to say "the hall manufacturing co". The town is missing but you can still see Maine. 8-1/2"long with 3-7/8" bits.

Pretty psyched about finding another old Maine axe!

That double is nice. I like how the overlays are easy to see.

 

[Hickory n steel]

Got this little hatchet two days ago. Not used to seeing homestead without Collins being there too?

I bought this one about a hour ago. I believe it used to say "the hall manufacturing co". The town is missing but you can still see Maine. 8-1/2"long with 3-7/8" bits.

Pretty psyched about finding another old Maine axe!

My homestead Michigan only says HOMESTEAD with no other markings, it's late pre Mann collins I'd bet your hatchet it a Mann as the cheeks appear flat in your picture.

 

[jblyttle]

I bought this one about a hour ago. I believe it used to say "the hall manufacturing co". The town is missing but you can still see Maine. 8-1/2"long with 3-7/8" bits.

Pretty psyched about finding another old Maine axe!

I've never heard of them. I would be very surprised if that wasn't an Oakland made head.

 

[Yankee Josh]

Yeah it probably was made in Oakland. The HALL company was in Rockland ME and were known for mostly handles and handle fitting. They were known to produce an axe but the extent isn't known according to Thomas Lamond. I'm pleased to have such a nice metal cap wedge! Never seen one in such good condition! Check his thing out!

The top is very thick compared to my other ones. I just used worn out 100 grit sandpaper under the faucet to clean it up. The eye is quite small on this head. Only 2-3/8". It weighs #2-8.6oz. I think I'll sharpen it for splitting and use it for that. We'll see!

 

[phantomknives]

Yeah it probably was made in Oakland. The HALL company was in Rockland ME and were known for mostly handles and handle fitting. They were known to produce an axe but the extent isn't known according to Thomas Lamond. I'm pleased to have such a nice metal cap wedge! Never seen one in such good condition! Check his thing out!

The top is very thick compared to my other ones. I just used worn out 100 grit sandpaper under the faucet to clean it up. The eye is quite small on this head. Only 2-3/8". It weighs #2-8.6oz. I think I'll sharpen it for splitting and use it for that. We'll see!

coool a cap wedge! dont see too many of those

 

[Yankee Josh]

For what it's worth I figured out that that db is an old Peavey. I measured the space between the e in "the" and the m in "manufacturing" and by using the spacing and letter size on the existing words Peavey fits right in. Peavey was one of only three companies in Maine to have the word manufacturing in their name. Hall, Hubbard&Blake and Peavey. So that's cool!

 

[Miller '72]

For what it's worth I figured out that that db is an old Peavey. I measured the space between the e in "the" and the m in "manufacturing" and by using the spacing and letter size on the existing words Peavey fits right in. Peavey was one of only three companies in Maine to have the word manufacturing in their name. Hall, Hubbard&Blake and Peavey. So that's cool!

Great investigative work, very cool
Feels good when the puzzle comes together

 

[junkenstien]

 

[junkenstien]

Back home for the holidays and my brother said he wanted an axe so we went looking today.Thats a 5 lb Kelly perfect,3 1/2 lb 6 eye ridge,3lb blue grass,3lb Jersey 6 eye ridge and a 3 lb plumb on the original handle.The boys axe and old double bit are not marked.34inch handle and a 48 oz ball peen head I didn’t get in the picture.At an old cotton gin turned vendors market in north Mississippi for 50 total

 

[Agent_H]

Lots of rust, need files, looks like a diamond in the rough.

 

[A17]

Another update on the cracked plumb. It is sorta polished and it would have been hung by now but the haft is bent and needs to be straightened. Yes, it was I that accidentally hit the name with a grinder. In my defense, my brothers started yelling at each other and as I turned to look, well, need I say more? The end result was a large amount of the plumb logo being ground off and a bit of swearing.

 

[Yankee Josh]

Another update on the cracked plumb. It is sorta polished and it would have been hung by now but the haft is bent and needs to be straightened. Yes, it was I that accidentally hit the name with a grinder. In my defense, my brothers started yelling at each other and as I turned to look, well, need I say more? The end result was a large amount of the plumb logo being ground off and a bit of swearing.

All things considered that looks pretty darn good! I bet you'll get a lot of satisfaction out of using that one. It's fun to put a lot into something! You should give your brothers a quick grind for distracting you. Just a quick one. Haha. I'd be surprised if your haft gets straightened out using that method though. I've tried it every which way and the only way I've ever succeeded in bending one straight is with tension and steam. Is it only a slight bend?

 

[A17]

It was a mockup to make sure that board would work size wise. I have been forbidden from trying to steam it until AFTER Christmas due to a foil tent over a pot on the stove "making the house not look Christmasy".

 

[Yankee Josh]

It was a mockup to make sure that board would work size wise. I have been forbidden from trying to steam it until AFTER Christmas due to a foil tent over a pot on the stove "making the house not look Christmasy".

That's funny. Actually made me Laugh Out Loud.

 

[jblyttle]

Those heads all look to be in great shape.

 

[Square_peg]

It is a tank but comfortable and feels right, sturdy.
I am not sure of its accuracy and I am curious to learn an accurate accuracy test.
I have used countless plastic torpedoes such as this when heat and water piping, my test after dropping and smashing might consist of comparing it to the helpers level that was always so clean and proper.
Thanks SquarePeg, when I do get her cleaned up a little I will repost. It's a fantastic well made tool

Testing a level is very easy. Just set it on a marked location on a flat surface or use a door jamb when testing vertical vials. Note carefully how the level reads. Then rotate it 180° and check it again. If it's accurate it will read the same either way. I like to set a level on a countertop flush to the edge and flush to a corner. It's very easy to duplicate that when you flip it around. It doesn't matter whether or not the countertop is level. If the bubble is off to one side then it should be off exactly the same amount when you flip it around.

But if you really like to see the bubble centered, do this. Stack post-it notes under the low side until the bubble is perfectly centered. Then flip it around. It should read the same.

For testing vertical vials find a flat door jamb. It needn't be plumb, just flat so the level doesn't rock. Place the level against the jamb in a marked and repeatable location, like flush with the outside of the jamb and tight against the header. Read it carefully. Then spin it vertically 180° and place it back in the exact same location. If it reads exactly the same then it is accurate.

And you can level an object with an inaccurate level. Shim the object until the level reads exactly the opposite when you flip it around. Then it's level. For example, in one reading the bubble may be touching the left line. Flip the level 180°. If it's now touching the right line than the surface is level and the level is flawed.

You can also test vertical vials against a plumb bob which will always read true.

Finally, you can make a level by attaching a plumb bob to the vertical leg of a square. When the vertical leg is plumb the horizontal leg must be level. You can even do this at camp with 3 sticks, some twine and a rock. Lash the 3 sticks together to form a 3-4-5 triangle - always square thanks to Pythagoras. Any triangle with a leg 4 units long, another leg 3 units long, and the diagonal connecting them 5 units long will be square. And the unit can be any length of your choosing, e.g. a stick cut to some length. You can lay out 12 equal units along a twine and attach the twine to your stick triangle such that the 12 measured units form a 3-4-5 triangle. Multiples of 3-4-5 work just the same as in 6-8-10 or 9-12-15 or 15-20-25. Once you've made that right triangle, match a vertical leg to a plumb bob made from a rock tied to a string. When the vertical leg matches the plumb the horizontal leg will be level. Make a large triangle and you could sight along the level horizontal leg to level the corners of a cabin. Good ol' Pythagoras never fails us.

 

[Square_peg]

What a beautiful example of an overlay.