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KBAC-27D options?
- Thread starter cmacclel
- Start date
Apparently that's how the phone video camera captured the detent noise of the switch.
Thanks for all the help guys, talk about instant results
As for quality issues I seem to be a magnet for them
It seems nothing goes right these day and this may be an isolated issue the the KBAC-27D but the quality in products in general has gone way down lately. I for one make sure everything I sell is perfect before shipping or it doesn't ship - Joined
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2x speed if you have a 4" drive wheel and a 1725RPM motor on a direct drive was what Wayne Coe specified for my setup.
Thanks Man appears you beat my question
Is there an advantage to a larger diameter drive wheel I see the TW-90 grinder which looks very nice appears to have a 6" or 8" drive wheel.- Joined
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There is a tracking advantage to larger wheels.
A torque advantage to smaller ones.
Even Travis runs the 2x multiplier in the TW-90
I run lower RPM motors, and do the 2x myself, they have more power at lower RPM.
This is good, at least for the way I work, I need the torque at low RPM, but not as much at the high end.
I forget what number I set my max to, but I use a tachometer, and have them set at 75% or so if I remember correctly, to get me whatever max SFM I want on my belt.
Low is just moving the belt a few RPM
Set the braking so that it slows down in a few seconds, too quickly and the belts fly off, too slow and you stand around waiting for it to wind down, and get impatient...
I set the acceleration so that it ramps up to 100% RPM in about 5 seconds. Sometimes if you set it to ramp up too quickly, it will surge.
The others are hard to say, they just take some tweaking to get the thing to run at constant RPM under varying loads.
A torque advantage to smaller ones.
Even Travis runs the 2x multiplier in the TW-90
I run lower RPM motors, and do the 2x myself, they have more power at lower RPM.
This is good, at least for the way I work, I need the torque at low RPM, but not as much at the high end.
I forget what number I set my max to, but I use a tachometer, and have them set at 75% or so if I remember correctly, to get me whatever max SFM I want on my belt.
Low is just moving the belt a few RPM
Set the braking so that it slows down in a few seconds, too quickly and the belts fly off, too slow and you stand around waiting for it to wind down, and get impatient...
I set the acceleration so that it ramps up to 100% RPM in about 5 seconds. Sometimes if you set it to ramp up too quickly, it will surge.
The others are hard to say, they just take some tweaking to get the thing to run at constant RPM under varying loads.
I wound up ordering the factory On/Off and Fwd / Rev switches as they came with all the wiring which made it just plain easy The factory On/Off is a 250v 25amp rated switch. The Fwd / Rev is believe is only 5-6 amp rated. I called and spoke with Rob (I believe) about the start / stop switch and he recommended removing the boot and checking the lubrication of the switch. I did all that and it still feels funky with the witout the rubber boot installed. The other switches where exactly as expected.....I'll have to put another call in tomorrow and see about getting a replacement switch. Now I need to make myself a 6" drive pulley as my motor has a 7/8 shaft. I also make a few Idler pulley's while I'm at it. I got a bunch of sealed bearings on Ebay that should be here next week
The factory On/Off is a 250v 25amp rated switch. The Fwd / Rev is believe is only 5-6 amp rated. I called and spoke with Rob (I believe) about the start / stop switch and he recommended removing the boot and checking the lubrication of the switch. I did all that and it still feels funky with the witout the rubber boot installed. The other switches where exactly as expected.....I'll have to put another call in tomorrow and see about getting a replacement switch. Now I need to make myself a 6" drive pulley as my motor has a 7/8 shaft. I also make a few Idler pulley's while I'm at it. I got a bunch of sealed bearings on Ebay that should be here next week I wound up ordering the factory On/Off and Fwd / Rev switches as they came with all the wiring which made it just plain easy
What were the part numbers for thos switches if you could dig them up? Thanks
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Thanks for the heads up on making sure about the options when getting one of these things. I believe I understand the...
Thanks, Phil
- On/Off switch
- Run/Stop/Jog switch
- Forward/Brake/Reverse switch
Thanks, Phil
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What would you like it to do?
Seriously
As it comes, the only switch installed is the start/stop switch
As you can see, it's just a rubber dust plug to cover an empty hole.
In an industrial automated installation, you could have it run on auto as part of a larger system, or turn it to manual and control it at the machine itself.
But as it comes to you, it's just an empty hole and the label is meaningless.
You could use it as a place to install a panel mount fuse like this
(but just one so 110vac only not 220)
Or as a jack to plug in a footswitch.
Or as an extra switch to cut the footswitch in and out.
What would you like it to do?
Seriously
As it comes, the only switch installed is the start/stop switch
As you can see, it's just a rubber dust plug to cover an empty hole.
In an industrial automated installation, you could have it run on auto as part of a larger system, or turn it to manual and control it at the machine itself.
But as it comes to you, it's just an empty hole and the label is meaningless.
You could use it as a place to install a panel mount fuse like this
(but just one so 110vac only not 220)
Or as a jack to plug in a footswitch.
Or as an extra switch to cut the footswitch in and out.
Could you elaborate on the foot switch option and how it would be hooked up to 240v. I'll be running a 3 hp with a Kbac 29 (1p) kb#10001. This is single phase in and 3 phase good for 3hp and 9.0 amps. These are identical looking to the Kbac 27 units.
Here is a foot switch that is good for 15a and 240v:
http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/LF-31/
Thanks for the help with this.
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- Jul 13, 2009
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Let's try
For the 220v hookup to power input
It's just 3 wires in, 2 hots red and black to L1 and L2, and then a ground green, you may have to leave L3 empty
They all go on the bottom row, pretty simple, follow the manual
Jumpers and setup- these notes from my experience with the 2hp KBAC-27D unit and the model 29 manual
Read the manual, it's not difficult - it's just all that fear we have of smoking the unit we paid good money for.
The jumpers are identified on the board and the manual with the same code J1, J2 etc
Most will be set to default and not need any changes, some will need changes.
You will have a jumper to set for 110 or 220 - this is true for the kbac-27d
The model 29 will not have this option
Motor Horsepower Jumper
In the model 29 manual linked above - page 17 FIGURE 18 MOTOR HORSEPOWER SELECTION
Jumper J2
the motor HP size - there are jumpers for this also - they likely set the internal current protection limits.
on the 29, the default is set at 2HP if you're using a 3hp motor, you need to change it.
Now the control switches.
Start with the manual and let's see if there are any differences internally
As far as I can see it has mostly the same layout internally, you will know for sure when you have one in your hands.
Manual
http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kbac_29_1p_manual.pdf
Also page 4 of this sheet
http://www.kbelectronics.com/data_sheets/kbac.pdf
This photo is from a kbac27d 2 hp model
That switch should be OK.
Read the manual and see if there are any recommended ratings = maybe i missed something.
Look for the white jumper fwd, com, rev
You will be attaching to those spades, and this gives you a reverse option at the same time.
Notice that the white jumper has heavy wire and some jumpers are very thin wire
Use the same heavy wire and switch rating, the full hp rating on the switch.
Maybe 12 gauge stranded?, maybe more in the model 29?
Just for fun, it would be nice if you could measure the amperage through that jumper circuit with a motor load on it
The forward reverse selector switch is a simple SPDT switch - centre off
See if you can get a 3 HP switch it wont hurt if it's overrated.
In the comments above, "The (kbac27d HP factory switch) Fwd / Rev is believe is only 5-6 amp rated"
So you likely don't need full motor load capacity on that switch, but read the manual, or see if that info is somewhere
- or maybe contact KB tech service.
It has to fit the holes punched in the cover, so 15/32 threaded shank
and rubber boot covers
There are also setting which must be set inside the unit by turning the screws on the "trim pots" the blue blocks with white dials inside the top of the unit.
Rob Frink has posted suggested settings on his website for the kbac-27D
I suspect that they will also relate to this unit too.
Last edited:
Let's try
For the 220v hookup to power input
It's just 4 wires in, 2 hots red and black, a neutral white and then a ground green,
They all go on the bottom row, pretty simple, follow the manual
Now the control switches.
Start with the manual and let's see if there are any differences internally
As far as I can see it has mostly the same layout internally, you will know for sure when you have one in your hands.
Manual
http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kbac_29_1p_manual.pdf
Also page 4 of this sheet
http://www.kbelectronics.com/data_sheets/kbac.pdf
This photo is from a kbac27d 2 hp model
That switch should be OK.
Read the manual and see if there are any recommended ratings = maybe i missed something.
Look for the white jumper fwd, com, rev
You will be attaching to those spades, and this gives you a reverse option at the same time.
Notice that the white jumper has heavy wire and some jumpers are very thin wire
Use the same heavy wire and switch rating, the full hp rating on the switch.
Maybe 12 gauge stranded?, maybe more in the model 29?
Just for fun, it would be nice if you could measure the amperage through that jumper circuit with a motor load on it
The forward reverse selector switch is a simple SPDT switch - centre off
See if you can get a 3 HP switch it wont hurt if it's overrated.
In the comments above, "The (kbac27d HP factory switch) Fwd / Rev is believe is only 5-6 amp rated"
So you likely don't need full motor load capacity on that switch, but read the manual, or see if that info is somewhere
It has to fit the holes punched in the cover, so 15/32 threaded shank
and rubber boot covers
Thanks for the explanation and photo. Good point about the hp rating on the switch. I'll have to double check this info.
Getting there! I still need to make the 6" drive wheel and idler pulley. The arm has custom made shaft and delrin bushings and the tracking unit has a custom shaft.
Very nice. What model baldor did you go with?