Ok, now pay attention class
This knife started out as a piece of 1/8" 52100 ball bearing steel I bought from Sheffield Knife Supply. A chunk of that 3ft piece of steel is in Blues Lanny's Clip. I took another chunk of that steel and had it surface ground down to 3/32"(So Mikey, for extra credit, how much steel was removed from the original piece of steel?) Some pieces of that 3/32" went into Mike Robuck's Wharncliffe Trapper.
The blade in this knife came from that surface ground piece of steel. This is my first Khnutbuster with a 52100 blade. The spring is made of A2 tool steel. I cut both pieces of steel out on a metal cutting band saw with a bi-metal blade. (go ahead, can you say 'bi-metal')
A band saw makes a very rough cut edge and is time consuming grunt work that even Campbell could do. To save time, boys and girls, sometimes Mr. KnifeHead uses the service of his friend David at Great Lakes Waterjet. Many of the Khnutbusters I have made were from waterjet cut parts There might be some people out there that think you can get waterjet cut parts and use them straight away, but those parts are very rough and need to be hand ground on every surface because it has a profile that is an 80 grit finish and it is an angled cut.
I ground the blade by hand by holding the metal up to a 14" contact wheel belt grinder, using verious grits, until I thought it was good enough to be heat treated. And even before that, a nail nick must be cut into the steel. That is done with a vertical mill and a fly cutter. No, a fly cutter is not used to cut flys.
My friend Tony heat treated the blade and spring. I then put a finish grind on the blade using successively smaller grits, ending with 220 for the finish cut.
The handle is Case Autumn Peachseed bone. I didn't make the bone; it comes from cows. I didn't jig it or color it after the cow made it...Case did. BTW, the cow called and said she doesn't need the bone any more.
The pivot is secured with aluminum-bronze bushings which I used as washers inset into the bone. This creates an old-timey looking birdseye effect. The liners are .032" thick 410 stainless steel sheet that I cut out by hand on another metal cutting bandsaw equipped with a standard metal cutting blade. After much pain and suffering and trial and error and sometimes the utterance of a "dangit", holes are drilled and the final shape of the liners is arrived at by scientific calculations..........
.......not really. It's happens more by FM.(if your dad was in the military, ask him
)
After the FM happens, all this stuff is then put together and stainless steel pins are used to hold it together by spinning heads on the ends. This process is done with a drill press and little cone shaped dealy bops with inverted dome dimples on the end. Doesn't that sound cute
Well it works dangit and other macho guys use them all the time so shut yer pie holes.
After a little sanding, we end up with something that looks like this...
http://knifehead.com/images/kh-caseautmbonekhnut-1.jpg
http://knifehead.com/images/kh-caseautmbonekhnut-2.jpg
http://knifehead.com/images/kh-caseautmbonekhnut-3.jpg
http://knifehead.com/images/kh-caseautmbonekhnut-4.jpg
http://knifehead.com/images/kh-caseautmbonekhnut-5.jpg
I didn't keep track of how long it took to make this knife but it generally takes ME any where from 20-24 hours of time...evenings and weekends.
Thanks for looking and, yes, it's goin with me to Bastidville
