Kershaw Mini-Cyclone Ti handles and ZDP189 blade

Very nice Gary. Boy, so much has happened with steels and knives since I was pretty much gone from the knife world for about 2 1/2 years!

First of all, what's this about the knife being a manual, assist opener and an auto? Is this correct in that this knife is all three? If it is, that's too neat!

Secondly, I thought ZDP-189 was a pretty good stainless and was sandwiched between 420? I know all stainless steels can rust some but most folks here are saying it corrodes fairly easily. Why would it need the coating? Thanks.

Kershaw has come a long way. Good for them!
 
Gene said:
Very nice Gary. Boy, so much has happened with steels and knives since I was pretty much gone from the knife world for about 2 1/2 years!

First of all, what's this about the knife being a manual, assist opener and an auto? Is this correct in that this knife is all three? If it is, that's too neat!

Secondly, I thought ZDP-189 was a pretty good stainless and was sandwiched between 420? I know all stainless steels can rust some but most folks here are saying it corrodes fairly easily. Why would it need the coating? Thanks.

Kershaw has come a long way. Good for them!
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No, it is not an auto. It is an assisted opener AND manual. In assisted opening mode you push the blade out a bit (in my sample about 0.5") using either the flipper or the studs and then the spring takes over and fires the blade open.

In the Cyclone the ZDP is NOT sandwiched it is pure ZDP. I don't think it NEEDS the coating, but the coating looks cool (I'd imagine that coatings have come a long way in the last 2.5 years aswell) and it offers some protection as well of course. I wouldn't over-interpret the coating. ZDP is not the most corrosion resistant of the stainless steels, but personally, I haven't seen rust or discoloration on either of my ZDP blades. If you tend to sweat aggressively, you might have some issues but otherwise I don't think it should be of any concern.
 
Initially I think all ZDP189 was laminated or sandwiched as you said, but in using both I've found I actually prefer the solid blades. For one they don't scratch up really bad looking unsightly in no time flat like the softer 420J outer does on the laminated ones. Ironically I have more laminated than anything else though.

STR
 
Gene said:
Very nice Gary. Boy, so much has happened with steels and knives since I was pretty much gone from the knife world for about 2 1/2 years!...!
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Hi there! welcome back, hope you can take the new stuff with the old ;)

I'm waiting on the return of the blade, getting it ground down a bit thinner
should be wicked on it's return!
G2
 
Beautiful pics Gary, and a nice writeup.

This looks like a must have for EDC...to all that have bought, where's the best price you've found?
 
I have the Kershaw Ti / ZDP189 Leek. I find I carry it more often than my other knives. It does have a few details that annoy me though. The first is the silly lock at the rear end. It tends to engage all to often when pulling the knife from my pocket. I've never once had the knife open accidentally in my pocket, even in baggy, cargo shorts pockets. So I don't believe the lock is needed.

The other thing I'm not crazy about is the Leek's blade shape. There have been reports here on the forum regarding tip breakage. I think the shape of the Mini Cyclone's blade is more practical and appealing. The other thing I noticed in your photos is the bearing mounted in the side lock arm where it contacts the blade as it opens / closes. I think this should make opening a bit smoother, and is a nice touch.

One thing I don't understand is that on the Leek, the blade stud acts as a stop against the grips when the blade is open. How is that accomplished on the Cyclone?

The clip on the Cyclone is also more rounded and a bit shorter than the Leek's. A good idea, I think. And when you reverse the clip, it is closer to the butt end of the grip (because of the lock location on the Leek), so that not as much knife is sticking up above the edge of your pocket. Making it little more discreet sometimes!

I was hesitant to buy a black coated blade because I do use it hard and often. But from what I've read here it seems to hold up well.

I did find that regrinding the bevel on my Leek allowed me to achieve a sharper edge. The ZDP seems to hold it well too.

It was a tough decision to shell out $150 for a knife that is not that different from my current knife, but the Mini Cyclone seems to address every (perceived) shortcoming of my Leek. And really, this is a LOT of knife for the money!
 
Overlap said:
The first is the silly lock at the rear end. It tends to engage all to often when pulling the knife from my pocket.
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Mine started doing that too. Just tighten it with a T6 torx driver and it will keep it from accidently locking. You can buy a torx driver from Home Depot for $6. I also switched the clip to tip up carry with this tool.
 
Overlap said:
One thing I don't understand is that on the Leek, the blade stud acts as a stop against the grips when the blade is open. How is that accomplished on the Cyclone?
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by a stop pin. Not as elegant as the using the TS as stop but it allows in principle eliminate the TS and you can choose the location freely. Personally I would like to see a larger stop pin, but really this is probably asking for serious overkill.
 
HoB said:
Personally I would like to see a larger stop pin, but really this is probably asking for serious overkill.
Click to expand...


Do you think the stop pin is the weakest link in the knife?
What is the consensus of opinion of owners of othe Kershaw knife with a stop pin? As I just bought my second ZDPTi, I was wondering about that stop pin myself, as to wear. I suppose you could rotate it if it starts to wear.
 
C Ben Susrool said:
Do you think the stop pin is the weakest link in the knife?
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Ummmh, well in the direction of opening, the stop pin is obviously the weakest link as there is only one link to begin with. For the knife to fail towards the opening direction either the blade will break along the hight of the blade which is unlikely unless you clobber it onto something hard or the stop pin will break/rupture or the stop pin will tear out. Technically at the same time the lock bar also has to be deformed but at the forces we are talking about, that is not the problem anymore. But your question is really misleading, it shouldn't be WHAT the weak link is but HOW WEAK the link is.

If you want to know if the stop pin is weaker than the lock (which is really comparing apples and oranges because in one the force acts towards opening the knife and in the other towards closing...exactly opposite), no, most certainly not.

The stop pin doesn't need to be rotated if it wears, the lock will compensate for the wear, although again, the lock is far more likely to wear than the stop pin. Should, against all odds, the stop pin wear, just get a new one. I am sure Kershaw would be happy to sent you one (or 10). It would be a 5 min fix and the postage for the letter is probably more expensive than the part.
 
I've heard this is a limited edition of 825 pieces, but they're not numbered or anything. I was planning on waiting for a couple of paydays but now I'm not so sure (after the excellent John Grisham pic I really want one!). Does anyone know if Kershaw will stop at 825 or if there are more in the pipeline?
 
Thanks HoB,
What I meant by the weak link did not concern the lock, but I meant to ask would the stop pin be apt to be the first part to wear? I realize that if it does the lock bar would move over more to the back side, and I think that with a good hardened lock bar, this would be a small concern. I guess I was asking of those who know, if Kershaw has had any problems with excessive stop pin wear in other models.
I think this is a good, tough knife all around, should last a couple of lifetimes, I have great confidence in all the parts, but I meant to ask a simple question about the stop pin.:confused:
I agree that if I experience any wear there Kai would happily send me another pin :thumbup:
 
LoL ah, ok that makes sense! thanks I thought I missed a good shot of it!
Thanks, that clears that up!
I hope to get my revised blade, ground by Tom Krein, soon and I'll post some
images of that too.
While the original blade would push cut through that book, it did take a bit
of effort to do so. I've had other knives that would not press cut no matter
how hard you pressed by hand. Just the wrong bevels and edge thickness.

G2
 
Well, got mine back from Kershaw's warranty dept. and now it snaps open properly and locks up like a fixed-blade. Whew! Now to enjoy . . . .
 
bubinga said:
I've heard this is a limited edition of 825 pieces, but they're not numbered or anything. I was planning on waiting for a couple of paydays but now I'm not so sure (after the excellent John Grisham pic I really want one!). Does anyone know if Kershaw will stop at 825 or if there are more in the pipeline?
Click to expand...
Actually bubinga it looks as if 750 will be the number that makes it out of the factory.

C Ben Susrool said:
I guess I was asking of those who know, if Kershaw has had any problems with excessive stop pin wear in other models.
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Thomas, I have really never seen a Kershaw come back due to excessive stop pin wear. No worries.
 
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