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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Keyhole Fighter WIP
- Thread starter KHall
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2009
- Messages
- 1,505
Update 4
Next I go to the disk grinder to cut the clip. My power source for my KMG and disk grinder is a variable speed wood lathe.
Ive made a simple blade rest out of wood to assist in this process. I like using the disk grinder for this because you can grind the entire length of the clip at one time and keep the cut in the same plane. I start off at 80 grit then finish with 120 grit. The rest of the sanding is done by hand when I finish the knife.
Next I square up the back of the ricasso by putting the knife in my carbide faced file guard and cleaning it up on the grinder.
Then I feather in the cutting edge.
Then I do a quick test of the edge.
The edge looks good.
Then I begin the process of hand sanding. I start with 220 grit, if I have a few deep scratches I will go back to 120 grit. I have a tapered 2x2 that I clamp the blade on for this process.
After sanding with 220.
Right side of the blade at 1000 grit
Left side
Next upload the keyhole guard.
Next I go to the disk grinder to cut the clip. My power source for my KMG and disk grinder is a variable speed wood lathe.
Ive made a simple blade rest out of wood to assist in this process. I like using the disk grinder for this because you can grind the entire length of the clip at one time and keep the cut in the same plane. I start off at 80 grit then finish with 120 grit. The rest of the sanding is done by hand when I finish the knife.
Next I square up the back of the ricasso by putting the knife in my carbide faced file guard and cleaning it up on the grinder.
Then I feather in the cutting edge.
Then I do a quick test of the edge.
The edge looks good.
Then I begin the process of hand sanding. I start with 220 grit, if I have a few deep scratches I will go back to 120 grit. I have a tapered 2x2 that I clamp the blade on for this process.
After sanding with 220.
Right side of the blade at 1000 grit
Left side
Next upload the keyhole guard.
Bailey Knives
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2004
- Messages
- 3,769
I can't wait. Thanks for doing this. I have been dying to see how this works.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2009
- Messages
- 1,505
Update 5
With the blade completed, it’s time to focus on the keyhole. I begin by marking the tang on the keyhole block.
Next I cut out the keyhole with my porta-bandsaw.
When I clean up the cut lines on the grinder.
I am going to make the handle from African Blackwood.
Next I mark out the keyhole on the Blackwood. I clamp them together so they don’t move during mark-up.
Next I go to the wood band saw roughly cut out the design.
Then I go back to the grinder and clean-up the band saw cuts.
Next I begin the process of pressing the handle into the keyhole. I do this with my vise. I only press about a ¼ of an inch.
This gives me a more defined line to grind to. I carefully grind off a little more material. Then I go back to the vice and press the handle all the way in.
With the blade completed, it’s time to focus on the keyhole. I begin by marking the tang on the keyhole block.
Next I cut out the keyhole with my porta-bandsaw.
When I clean up the cut lines on the grinder.
I am going to make the handle from African Blackwood.
Next I mark out the keyhole on the Blackwood. I clamp them together so they don’t move during mark-up.
Next I go to the wood band saw roughly cut out the design.
Then I go back to the grinder and clean-up the band saw cuts.
Next I begin the process of pressing the handle into the keyhole. I do this with my vise. I only press about a ¼ of an inch.
This gives me a more defined line to grind to. I carefully grind off a little more material. Then I go back to the vice and press the handle all the way in.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 741
This beauty is coming along nicely. I like the blade,great shape and killer hamon.
Steve
Steve
S.Grosvenor
Fulltime KnifeMaker
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2010
- Messages
- 665
Thanks for taking the time to show us your techniques!
Excellent
Excellent
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2009
- Messages
- 1,505
Metalmole,
I run the grinder at a very slow speed. Tracking can to challenging and some times the belt does not want to run. There is a lot of drag going over that edge. Sometimes I even pull the belt by hand. You have to be careful not to cut to much, because you just want to clean up and even-up the plunge line.
Ken
I run the grinder at a very slow speed. Tracking can to challenging and some times the belt does not want to run. There is a lot of drag going over that edge. Sometimes I even pull the belt by hand. You have to be careful not to cut to much, because you just want to clean up and even-up the plunge line.
Ken
- Joined
- May 18, 2009
- Messages
- 1,831
Wow, good stuff. Thanks for your time.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 563
Amazing work.. Thanks for taking the time to show us.
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2009
- Messages
- 1,505
Update 6
Now begins the work of cutting the tang hole in the keyhole guard. I mark a centerline down the face of the guard and mark the width of the tang at the guard and then begin drilling pilot holes (3/32) along the line.
I then go back and drill the hole closer to final opening size needed. Then I used an end mill in my drill press to cut out the webbing between the holes.
Then I begin the long slow process of filing the hole to final size for the tang. I have a file guide the I made that can hold the 2.5 keyhole block.
Here is the first test fit.
Once it is close to final fit, I use my press fit jig to force the fit so I can find the high spots to file off.
Here are a couple shots of the final fit.
The next task is to cut out the space for the tang from the handle block. Here are two pictures of the marked up handle block.
Next using the band saw I cut the center out of the upper part of the handle block.
Next I use the drill press to bore a hole each side of the tang slot.
Next I use a 6 long ¼end mill to cut out the material between the two holes.
Then I check the fit of the tang in the handle and then the fit of the knife, keyhole and handle.
Next time I will begin shaping the front end of the guard and epoxy everything together.
Now begins the work of cutting the tang hole in the keyhole guard. I mark a centerline down the face of the guard and mark the width of the tang at the guard and then begin drilling pilot holes (3/32) along the line.
I then go back and drill the hole closer to final opening size needed. Then I used an end mill in my drill press to cut out the webbing between the holes.
Then I begin the long slow process of filing the hole to final size for the tang. I have a file guide the I made that can hold the 2.5 keyhole block.
Here is the first test fit.
Once it is close to final fit, I use my press fit jig to force the fit so I can find the high spots to file off.
Here are a couple shots of the final fit.
The next task is to cut out the space for the tang from the handle block. Here are two pictures of the marked up handle block.
Next using the band saw I cut the center out of the upper part of the handle block.
Next I use the drill press to bore a hole each side of the tang slot.
Next I use a 6 long ¼end mill to cut out the material between the two holes.
Then I check the fit of the tang in the handle and then the fit of the knife, keyhole and handle.
Next time I will begin shaping the front end of the guard and epoxy everything together.
Bailey Knives
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2004
- Messages
- 3,769
Wow, that is amazing. Thanks for doing this. I did a WIP a while ago, and I know how much time it takes to do all the editing and posting. It adds quite a bit of time onto the making of a knife. You could probably have the knife nearly done by now if you didn't have to upload and write everything. Thanks again for taking the time.
- Joined
- Nov 14, 2006
- Messages
- 414
This is looking very good!
Thanks a lot for the WIP.
So far I love the looks of the blade. Very nice.
Thanks a lot for the WIP.
So far I love the looks of the blade. Very nice.
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2010
- Messages
- 6,852
Fantastic WIP; I'm learning a lot. It looks both easier and way harder than I was expecting from your sketch. By that I mean the concept is easier than it looks, but the execution looks quite difficult, and requiring of much skill and care. Thanks for sharing!
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2009
- Messages
- 1,505
Update 7
I started by marking out the shape of the face of the guard. I use a circle template and a French-curve.
Before I begin to shape the guard I cut off some of the excess material from the keyhole block. In the process of doing this I had a small slip and managed to cut my left thumb. So I had to take a timeout and go get three stitches. In the picture below you can see the area I saw cutting when I lost focus. Be safe out there these tools can hurt you.
Well, with a rubber glove and some tape it’s back to work.
I finished cutting away material from the keyhole block.
Next I begin to shape the profile of the guard, I do this on my KMG grinder.
Next I do one more dry fit-up and how I will clamp everything together.
Before I begin to glue it all together I finish sand the face of the guard. I start on the KMG with 120, go to 220, then 400, and finish off by hand sanding at 600 grit.
My Doberman, Sheba, stop by to see what was going on.
Next I get everything I will need for the glue-up. I’m using 15 minute epoxy. I was concern that I would not have enough time to put all the parts together and get them lined-up. You may note that I have black leather dye on the table. I mix some of this in with the epoxy so if there are any small voids that are filed with epoxy will match the African Blackwood.
I started by marking out the shape of the face of the guard. I use a circle template and a French-curve.
Before I begin to shape the guard I cut off some of the excess material from the keyhole block. In the process of doing this I had a small slip and managed to cut my left thumb. So I had to take a timeout and go get three stitches. In the picture below you can see the area I saw cutting when I lost focus. Be safe out there these tools can hurt you.
Well, with a rubber glove and some tape it’s back to work.
I finished cutting away material from the keyhole block.
Next I begin to shape the profile of the guard, I do this on my KMG grinder.
Next I do one more dry fit-up and how I will clamp everything together.
Before I begin to glue it all together I finish sand the face of the guard. I start on the KMG with 120, go to 220, then 400, and finish off by hand sanding at 600 grit.
My Doberman, Sheba, stop by to see what was going on.
Next I get everything I will need for the glue-up. I’m using 15 minute epoxy. I was concern that I would not have enough time to put all the parts together and get them lined-up. You may note that I have black leather dye on the table. I mix some of this in with the epoxy so if there are any small voids that are filed with epoxy will match the African Blackwood.
- Status