Killa Zilla III - Who wants it?

Incur said:
I mean wide fullers like traditional kukris. Just wondering if it can be milled out with machine
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There aren't any examples that I've seen of such a fuller being done by busse. It can be machined in using the cnc machines Busse has. You could do it manually with a fly cutter and a sine plate, or a 4+axis mill if you wanted to do it with a single tool in a single pass. More than likely it would be done as a multiple pass removal using a ball end mill, leaving the lines like the ones you see on the current production knives like the CG BOSS Jack.
 
Last Visible Canary said:
Busse has never made 'swappable' scales as you describe them, and I kind of doubt that they will in the future. They will make multiple models with different types of scales, but their standard set up is tube fasteners instead of bolts. As a company that tries to minimize 'damages' to their knives and resultant needs for warranty work, scales that are swappable create a difficult situation. They require tight machine tolerances that can't be corrected for in the shop during manufacture, if theres even a .005" overhang on the scale you'll feel it. In order to really keep tolerances in line for swappable scales you also need to supply custom hardware thats also to tight tolerances. It can't be interference tolerances (that would really guarantee a tight accurate fit) but they have to be tight enough to reduce the possibility of slop in the bolt to center of hole position and thus the edge of the scales. That means you know have the possibility of customers complaining of slight overhangs in the scales, the need to stock and distribute custom fixing hardware, and deal with customers who are not mechanically inclined enough to insert and remove tight fitting fasteners (a necessity for tight tolerances). You'd also likely run into those who want the tube fastener holes for those once in a trillion times when you have to make a spear out of your knife.

In the end it's just not built into their business model at the moment.
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Swappable scales would probably have to be an aftermarket accessory. There are ways to make them work without the need for high precision. Something as simple as a gasket-like liner can smooth out all the misalignments and make them unnoticeable. For example, a thin rubber gasket would bulge out enough to completely cover the edges, and it would add a little extra grip to the handle. Win-win, and it's super cheap (I used to create stuff like that).

Considering the kind of money people blow on Busse knives, I'm surprised someone hasn't thought of this already. It should be easy enough to make in a DIY project. Using shoulder bolts or even cheaper countersunk flat head bolts would probably work just fine if whoever is swapping the scales is careful to align them before fully tightening all the bolts. That's much easier to do than it sounds. Just resting the knife on a desk could be enough to align them perfectly. Any bolts should work with that technique.

If all that isn't good enough, then pins are the next step up. Those are probably unnecessary, but would be pretty easy to do also.
 
Since there have not been any recently released res-c handled rats, I am suspecting that a KhukRat is only going to be an option as a micarta handled blade, but here's hoping for a SR101 Khuki Old Mutt or an INFI Killa Basilla! :D
 
Funny thing is, even if Jerry did come out with a different version of the Zilla ( which I doubt will happen) people will just complain that there is something else wrong with it and/ or its to expensive

All hail the TT Zilla!!!

[video=youtube_share;z_sUgzHieHQ]http://youtu.be/z_sUgzHieHQ[/video]
 
Killa Basilla!!!! :eek::eek::eek: If Jerry is going to make another Zilla it has to bear this name i would buy 2 from the name alone
 
I think I would want a few different versions. Since they hold their value so well, I might go for a whole collection of them instead of just what I "need". A light and fast Kumar Kobra styled blade would be interesting.
 
kookery said:
Last Visible Canary said:
Where does all this info come from? I couldn't find anything on the Busse website to explain why I should want to buy the particular models they were selling. Their custom site is really bad - mostly useless flash that makes it even harder to find the tiny speck of info that's actually there.
.
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We are in the process of creating a new and improved Custom Shop website. We appreciate your patience and if you have any Custom Knife questions, please email Garth at garth@bussecombat.com. He will be able to answer any questions you may have on any particular model :thumbup:
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LVC, I think this is physically impossible, "and it creates a structure that is stronger and stiffer for it's weight than a flat peice of bar stock. The same is true of an I-Beam. If an I beam weighs 1 ton, it will be stronger and stiffer than a piece of flat stock of the same width utiliing the same amount of metal....

The truth of this is if two materials are of equal dimensions and made to the same metal specs, the SOLID will always be stronger. NOW if the two items have the same MASS(which I think you were trying to say in the last part of that statement) then the I-Beam will be stronger. Talking about the hilts of say the TG vs TGLB. It is physically impossible for the TGLB to be as strong as the TG. We are talking dimensions not mass.
 
I would like to see a Kukri KZ2 blade wrapped in RES-C and a lot of it. Not some skinny hilt covering like a DF or SR-Battle Rat but a hunk of well shaped RES-C. The only other real improvement is make the blade, .200" as long as the edge to spine was more tapered. With the thickness of the blade and this type of hilt the user would receive less vibration and get more bit into the wood. A serious chopper!!!
 
RussMo said:
I would like to see a Kukri KZ2 blade wrapped in RES-C and a lot of it. Not some skinny hilt covering like a DF or SR-Battle Rat but a hunk of well shaped RES-C. The only other real improvement is make the blade, .200" as long as the edge to spine was more tapered. With the thickness of the blade and this type of hilt the user would receive less vibration and get more bit into the wood. A serious chopper!!!
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I agree with what you've said here, I'd like to see a thinner kukri so you could actually rationalize carrying it. Res-c would also keep the weight forward so you'd get great performance combined with the thinner stock, especially if a full convex (from edge to spine) grind was used in addition.

The Scrap Yard Regulator handles would probably work pretty well for this design too, nice meaty Res-c with a thinnish tang.

As much as I want a Busse Kukri, I don't think I could bring myself to snag either the TTKZ or KZII due the "flaws" (subjective) that I perceive with them purely by looking at specs, pics & user reviews.
 
aaaa_cccc said:
I agree with what you've said here, I'd like to see a thinner kukri so you could actually rationalize carrying it. Res-c would also keep the weight forward so you'd get great performance combined with the thinner stock, especially if a full convex (from edge to spine) grind was used in addition.

The Scrap Yard Regulator handles would probably work pretty well for this design too, nice meaty Res-c with a thinnish tang.

As much as I want a Busse Kukri, I don't think I could bring myself to snag either the TTKZ or KZII due the "flaws" (subjective) that I perceive with them purely by looking at specs, pics & user reviews.
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"Flaws?" BLASPHEMY!!
 
hi every body
Sincerely not sure. I already have some busse aa home, and I am a fan of kz I have KZ I and II test team THE custom shop etc. .... each has its charm
not sure if it brings something more
but if done busse kzIII
i take it (only satin finish or competition finish)

 
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If there is going to be a KZ 3 i would like it to have the Proto handle with the TTKZ blade, in the pic below you can see the difference between the handles.
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Close up pic of the proto and the TTKZ
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The shape and length of the proto handle makes the proto feel much lighter than the other two even though the proto is the heaviest one of the 3, i think the TTKZ would weigh about the same if it had mags instead of the standard slabs.
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Another pic of the trio.
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The blade on the Proto is a bit thicker behind the edge than the TTKZ and in my mind this makes it stick less than the TTKZ but it does not make it a better chopper, the KZ2 is in my mind the best choice if you want a KZ for lighter work because if you choke up on the handle when you use it it feels like a much smaller knife and you get more control.

With Pants :D
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If i could decide i would like the KZ3 to be fatter at the spine but with more taper towards the edge like the NMFSH and with the Proto handle.

TTKZ biting Birch.

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