Kiridashis! (and tantos and more) Started up!

I believe Daniel is using the West Systems 105/207 combo on these. 207 is a special purposes hardener that dried ultra clear. I have used it for top coating teak and also for bar tops. It has a nice amount of give to it without being brittle.

I'm sure Daniel will correct me if I'm wrong, but I *think* that's what he's using.


-Xander
 
That's some cool stuff Xander, I've used 105/205 before but it turns out an amber color new and now that it's a couple years old almost a red. Come to think of it I have a lot of the 105 left, I may need to pick a thing of 207 and a different pump set and try it out.
 
OzarkMatt said:
Man, I can't believe I almost missed this thread, that reverse tanto is KILLER! I love it and the wharn-ish fighter too!

I have a question for you, do you thin the epoxy you soak the p-cord in before applying it? I usually thin it to almost a water consistency with acetone and it soaks in incredibly well and cures nicely but I haven't really seen anyone else do that.

Cheers
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Thanks, I'm probably going to get to the wrap on that tanto later today.

What Xander said on the epoxy... I use the 207 and it is honey thick yet soaks right into fabric. Cool tip on thiinning the 205, I know peopledo that to soak stones like turquoise to stabilize them.

theflyingplatypus said:
Thinning epoxy is usually up to personal preference, or dependent upon whether a complete soak is desired. I know in the fishing rod building world a complete soak in is not desired, as the epoxy's role is not to hold the guide on, but rather protect the thread that holds the guide on. As well, the guide if damaged would be nearly impossible to remove cleanly to repair if the epoxy soaked through the thread. I imagine in the knife making world a complete soak is desired for the best corrosion resistance.
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That's true, I aim to get a ton of epoxy soaked in to each wrap. I actually puddle it on the wrap and set the knives on foil/rotate a couple of times to get the puddled up epoxy to soak in. After that I wipe them down so they are not shiny.

Some cord works better than others too...

fast14riot said:
I believe Daniel is using the West Systems 105/207 combo on these. 207 is a special purposes hardener that dried ultra clear. I have used it for top coating teak and also for bar tops. It has a nice amount of give to it without being brittle.

I'm sure Daniel will correct me if I'm wrong, but I *think* that's what he's using.


-Xander
Click to expand...
Thanks Xander, that is correct.

I use the 105/207 combo on my cord wraps and the West System GFlex on my scales. I feel that they are the best.

OzarkMatt said:
That's some cool stuff Xander, I've used 105/205 before but it turns out an amber color new and now that it's a couple years old almost a red. Come to think of it I have a lot of the 105 left, I may need to pick a thing of 207 and a different pump set and try it out.
Click to expand...

Sounds good, as long as it has not frozen it is probably OK. Try a small test batch, I do sometimes on new cord anyways as sometimes the color darkens or changes.


This is how I do it...

[video=youtube_share;xLWs4x5FG34]http://youtu.be/xLWs4x5FG34[/video]
 
And......

Pics!

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067-5.jpg


058-7.jpg


072-3.jpg
 
Great stuff Daniel! Give thinned epoxy a try, I think you will like it. It gives them a much less glossy finish in my experience.

Cheers
 
Cool, I will have to try that.

I can get a less glossy finish with less resin too... they might sell better that way but I feel better about a thorough soak. I wonder if thinning could give a thorough soak and still not be glossy... must try!

By the way, the design you sent me is incredible! I see big things happening... :cool:
 
What I have noticed is that with thinned epoxy I can get it to soak in all the way to the tang then pat off the surface keeping it solid but giving it a very nice matte finish.

Glad you like the design man, I can't wait to see what you do with it! :thumbup: :D
 
OzarkMatt said:
What I have noticed is that with thinned epoxy I can get it to soak in all the way to the tang then pat off the surface keeping it solid but giving it a very nice matte finish.

Glad you like the design man, I can't wait to see what you do with it! :thumbup: :D
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Then it's on! Do you use acetone? Thanks for the tip.

The design is just off the charts, we'll talk more soon.
 
Yep, I mix my epoxy and let it kick off then add enough acetone to bring the consistency to a little thicker then water sorta like a light oil, paint it on with a foam paintbrush then let it cure out. It'll take longer to cure with the acetone in it and it helps to keep it in a warm place.

I have a larger version of that design that I am finishing up that I'll get your way sometime in the next few days. Shoot me an email if you have any questions about either one :)
 
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OzarkMatt said:
Yep, I mix my epoxy and let it kick off then add enough acetone to bring the consistency to a little thicker then water sorta like a light oil, paint it on with a foam paintbrush then let it cure out. It'll take longer to cure with the acetone in it and it helps to keep it in a warm place.

I have a larger version of that design that I am finishing up that I'll get your way sometime in the next few days. Shoot me an email if you have any questions about either one :)
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Sounds good... :cool:

Thanks again too.
 
I finally did a bunch more finishing work on the 15n20 Ultrathin Ultralight Kiridashis!

I heat treated them today and they are in the oven for a second temper as I type this. Look out soon!

I'm bringing the value on these as well as a super light, tough knife with great edge holding. :cool:


Also look out for more of my standard model in 5160. I'm planning on some in Coyote Brown, Black and Red most likely. I'm getting an email a day on them and want to do a big run!
 
Tantos, Tantos, Tantos!!
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What he said!

I'm thinking of selling my first custom knife, which is also my EDC knife, so I'll have an excuse to buy a Fairly Tanto when one comes up. Googling "Custom D2 Tanto" was what brought me here in the first place, this past December. So long as it's tool steel, and shiny as sin, that's custom enough for this end-user.
 
I'll always be making more tantos! :D The tantos in this thread are long but I did finally get around to working on the 15n20 dashis. In fact I just walked in from grinding and blasting them. It was an epic day in the shop!

I have a piece of 3/4" tall, 5/16" thick A2 for two tantos later... they will be like spikes! I have the D2 stock for more of those too! Lots on the books but they will be made!
 
I'll always be making more tantos! :D The tantos in this thread are long gone but I did finally get around to working on the 15n20 dashis. In fact I just walked in from grinding and blasting them. It was an epic day in the shop!

I have a piece of 3/4" tall, 5/16" thick A2 for two tantos later... they will be like spikes! I have the D2 stock for more of those too! Lots on the books but they will be made!
 
thewoodpecker said:
Hope you made plenty of those 15n20 dashis. I think they are going to go like a prairie grass fire!
Click to expand...

They are pretty small and I made 4 feet of them! 12 total but I kept a template and lost one to heat treat for a total of 10!

They are somewhat random and every one is cool. Close too, I need to sharpen them and finish the sheaths!
 
thewoodpecker said:
Hope you made plenty of those 15n20 dashis. I think they are going to go like a prairie grass fire!
Click to expand...

They are pretty small and I made 4 feet of them! 12 started but I kept a template and lost one to heat treat for a total of 10!

They are somewhat random and every one is cool. Close too, I need to sharpen them and finish the sheaths!
 
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