KMG Grinder issues, please help.(fixed thanks!)

I'm back and still alive...barely. 1041 miles in 15hrs urghhh...

Damn that grinder is heavy. Had to carry the whole damn thing down my basement by myself. I'm sure I will feel that when I wake up. I haven't messed with it at all other than when I picked it up. It ran good as far as I can tell from the little amount of time we ran it.

My rental was only $40 and gas was only $100. Hell, if I had drove my car it easily would have eclipsed $175 just on gas. Once you figure in shipping, the belts he threw in(unused Norton blaze and other high quality belts), and the small wheel holder/wheels and extras I got around $2700 worth of equipment for $1840. Not bad, but I'm not taking any long trips for a while.

Good night

Here's a pic:
 
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I'm back and still alive...barely. 1041 miles in 15hrs urghhh...

Damn that grinder is heavy. Had to carry the whole damn thing down my basement by myself. I'm sure I will feel that when I wake up. I haven't messed with it at all other than when I picked it up. It ran good as far as I can tell from the little amount of time we ran it.

My rental was only $40 and gas was only $100. Hell, if I had drove my car it easily would have eclipsed $175 just on gas. Once you figure in shipping, the belts he threw in(unused Norton blaze and other high quality belts), and the small wheel holder/wheels and extras I got around $2700 worth of equipment for $1840. Not bad, but I'm not taking any long trips for a while.

Good night

Glad it worked out for you! Lets see some pics when you've got it up and running (pics or it didn't happen!)
 
Sounds like the plan came together.

You will love it and wonder how you ever got along without it before :)
 
That's awesome man. Congrats on the new equipment. Always a great day when you can significantly improve on your abilities with proper equipment. :thumbup:
 
the grinder with motor, vfd, and baseplate is heavy enough that I wont move them as a unit anymore, I hurt my back the last time I did so... I think it weighs more than my anvil >_< You'll love the KMG, as you can tell having had to pick it up, it's built like a TANK. IMO the best grinder out there. Not necessarily the most features, but the most solid, vibration free, and indestructible.
 
Wake up already and post some pics of your new set up! :D ;) lol Man, I don't have a KMG, but I did build my own NWG and it is deffinitely a great piece of eqiupment to have! It sounds like you got a heck of a deal, and it's nice you got the hard part (driving) over with. All those "freebies" like fresh belts, small wheel attachment with 3 wheels as well as it's own arm, as well as getting a more powerful motor and with VFD for around the same price as getting a standard new KMG from Beaumont, that is sweet! You are set man, a platen and small wheels (which I still need) for me would be the first priotity attachment to have... so when you are able to get a good contact wheel later on you'll have everything you'll need to make any style of blade/grind there is :thumbup: :) Then even later down the road you can get the rotary arm attachment :cool: . Like I said I dont have a KMG nor have I ever used one, but I would be stoked! Hope you're able ta get it set up in your shop and able to grind out some blades soon, I'd love ta see some pics or even vid of everything ya got :) Sorry, but belt grinders excite me lol.. Probably because there are so many that are so much better than mine, but I gives me something to look forward to and ogle at ;) That said, I'm happy with mine, and the fact that I made it myself. :cool: Congrats bro! :thumbup: :thumbup:

-Paul

My Channel Lsubslimed
 
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I will try and take a few pics here in a bit.

I am having an issue with the tracking when the belt is going in reverse. It almost jumps completely off of the tracking wheel to right. I've screwed the tracking knob all the way in and it still wants to climb all the way up the angled tracking wheel and then over/off the edge. As it stands now i can't use it in reverse. I've tried different belts and it does it with all of them. I've also tried using different levels of tension and it still does it.

If anyone had some insight I'd greatly appreciate it.

Here's a picture of what it's doing:
 
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Why are you running the belt in reverse? Seriously. Why?

You can adjust the tracking with the left to right fit of the upper tool arm plate. That might help a bit. But then again I'm not sure what you want to accomplish in reverse that you can't accomplish running in forward. I think you would have less of an issue if you had a rubber contact wheel or a rubber upper idler wheel on the platen.
 
Get the arm that has the tracking wheel in a more horizontal position. That means you need more tension on the spring. The photo show the arm with too little tension.
 
Only reason to run belt in reverse is to clear up your sinuses with sparks. ;)

Kidding aside, happy for ya, you are gonna love it.
 
You need to double check all the postions of the wheels.

Tape and mark the centers of all of the wheels and then compare their positions to a common spot on the grinder.

The center of all the wheels must be in alignment for to run correct.

If you are using the Beumont wheels the width of the drive wheel and the tracking wheel are not the same width. If you are trying to line up the wheels by the edge....it will not work.
 
You need to double check all the postions of the wheels.

Tape and mark the centers of all of the wheels and then compare their positions to a common spot on the grinder.

The center of all the wheels must be in alignment for to run correct.

If you are using the Beumont wheels the width of the drive wheel and the tracking wheel are not the same width. If you are trying to line up the wheels by the edge....it will not work.

The width of all the wheels are different. Platen idler included. This just makes for more fun. Check these as well.
 
I will try and take a few pics here in a bit.

I am having an issue with the tracking when the belt is going in reverse. It almost jumps completely off of the tracking wheel to right. I've screwed the tracking knob all the way in and it still wants to climb all the way up the angled tracking wheel and then over/off the edge. As it stands now i can't use it in reverse. I've tried different belts and it does it with all of them. I've also tried using different levels of tension and it still does it.

If anyone had some insight I'd greatly appreciate it.

Here's a picture of what it's doing:

You may not get it to run in reverse

but


That's how the tracking works

The belt will always go to the high side.

It's doing what it should.
 
Congrats on the grinder. My homemade grinder is reversible also and I use it for a couple things.
 
Why are you running the belt in reverse? Seriously. Why?

You can adjust the tracking with the left to right fit of the upper tool arm plate. That might help a bit. But then again I'm not sure what you want to accomplish in reverse that you can't accomplish running in forward. I think you would have less of an issue if you had a rubber contact wheel or a rubber upper idler wheel on the platen.

I was just checking all of the functions of the machine. I thought I'd use the reverse function for sharpening.
 
I agree with PT Doc about the position of the tracking wheel arm... and since I don't quite understand your response, I'll post a couple pics to illustrate my perspective here. :)

In your pics, it appears your tracking wheel arm is like this---
medium800.jpg


That will never track true and will cause all kinds of belt drift when you start grinding.

You want it like this (or even further down if you can manage it)--- LOTS of tension on the belt!
medium800.jpg



You can't just push the arm down and change belts with it that way, you have to loosen the tooling arm bolt, then push down on the tracking wheel arm and pull the tooling arm out as far as possible, then tighten the bolt.

Some guys have given me flack over this, but it only takes a second once you get used to doing it, and it will make the belt track true. :)
 
BTW- I forgot to mention... CONGRATS on stepping up to a pro level grinder! It'll change your life! :D (seriously)


You will want to get some contact wheels when you can. Even if you never plan to hollow grind. A 10" serrated contact wheel will grind MUCH MUCH MUCH faster, cooler, and with longer belt life, than a flat platen.

Almost anything you want flat ground, can be hogged off close to shape with a contact wheel and then simply cleaned up on the flat platen. Flat platens are hell on belts.

Contact wheels are also very important for handle shaping, IMHO.
 
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