KMG Grinder issues, please help.(fixed thanks!)

Let's see a photo from the side.

LOL almost as if we're talking about a woman. I'll try and snap one after a bit. As you can tell, my shop is a wreck and I need to clean.

The thing was, the bolt holding the tracking wheel in was on there really good and didn't come loose from "normal" pressure. I finally just got to the point where I said the hell with it and wrenched on it real good and it broke loose. The drive wheel was held on by a less obvious method with the set screw that travels in a notch. Once I figured out that all I needed was a allen wrench i was golden. I just thought I'd spell out what I did to take the wheels off because I searched high and low and couldn't find out anywhere else.

Thanks again gents. Special thanks to sdemars for the call.
 
JG, It looks real good now and you only had to use 3 or 4 bushings on the tracking wheel. I had to use about 7 .043 bushings on mine but I am using a custom made drive wheel and tracking wheel and I adjusted them to work with about 7 different attachments and wheels. I will warn you now ahead of time that when you put a 8 or 10 inch contact wheel on that you will need a spacer of about 1 inch between the tool arm and the contact wheel. You can use a hexangonal 1/2 threaded fitting that you cut off to 1 inch with a hacksaw and sand it square instead of using a ton of machine bushings. They are less than a dollar at hardware sores like Orchard Supply . I use them on five of my wheels. If you learn to tap holes you can make your own toolbars from steel or aluminum. About $22.00 each for me including the allthread axles). I taught myself and made several of them. You can too. Larry


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I will warn you now ahead of time that when you put a 8 or 10 inch contact wheel on that you will need a spacer of about 1 inch between the tool arm and the contact wheel.

You can use a hexangonal 1/2 threaded fitting that you cut off to 1 inch with a hacksaw and sand it square instead of using a ton of machine bushings.

Coupling nut
 
JG, It looks real good now and you only had to use 3 or 4 bushings on the tracking wheel. I had to use about 7 .043 bushings on mine but I am using a custom made drive wheel and tracking wheel and I adjusted them to work with about 7 different attachments and wheels. I will warn you now ahead of time that when you put a 8 or 10 inch contact wheel on that you will need a spacer of about 1 inch between the tool arm and the contact wheel. You can use a hexangonal 1/2 threaded fitting that you cut off to 1 inch with a hacksaw and sand it square instead of using a ton of machine bushings. They are less than a dollar at hardware sores like Orchard Supply . I use them on five of my wheels. If you learn to tap holes you can make your own toolbars from steel or aluminum. About $22.00 each for me including the allthread axles). I taught myself and made several of them. You can too. Larry


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Hell I'm thinking I might just run a wheel on the other side of my small wheel holder tool arm. It looks like its threaded all the way through, is that possible? I'm probably gonna be an 8in or 10in contact wheel here soon. I see that Beaumont's are vulcanized rubber and cost and asrm and a leg(I'm sure they're worth it to those primarily doing hollow grinding). I mainly do flat grinding so I'm thinking I might just get a polymer wheel from usaknifemaker.
 
Sure, if you have enough thread depth to hold the wheel securely. With the money you save doing that you can afford the Beaumont 8 inch wheel (my favorite). I do not know if polymer wheels hold up and perform well but the majority of professional knife makers use the best wheels with at least 70 durometer hardness rated rubber. Save money elsewhere. My big mouth opinion again. Larry
 
That coupling nut that Beaumont uses is machined to the right width.

If you e-mail Rob he will sell you one or tell you the "magic" dimension it should be. I can measure mine for you if that will help.

Steve
 
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