I prefer a snipe-tap test, rather than a full-force spine-whack. I tap about as hard as you would if you were setting a nail into some wood.
People don't realize how little metal is actually involved in the contact of some lock types. When you stop to consider that a typical liner lock or frame lock, especially production models with few exceptions (Sebenza, Hinderer as two) then you realize just how quick and easy it can be to indent the lock contact right quick if you get carried away with it. Oh believe me I've heard the arguments that come. "I have spine whacked my liner lock and it never hurt a thing." Believe that if you want. The fact is the liner lock is made to self adjust from wear so what typically happens is after its indented it will move in further because now it can. So in effect it can and often does lead to premature/faster wear. Some have written me asking why the lock binds so terribly on some models. I've had some that did this also. Most all of em contact about this way here with very little lock actually physically contacting the blade. So that small foot print digs in. Guys say they noticed after whacking it no longer stuck. I say of course not. Its been indented in now and can't wear in a normal way.
Anyway, thinner liner locks can be affected a lot more obviously from severe sudden shock but when its repeated at regular intervals its really just setting your knife up for repair needs in my opinion.
Do what you want though. No one can tell you what to do or how to treat your own property. Here is the link to a pic I snapped showing a typical contact on most production and a lot of custom liner and frame locks. It is my hope that this will visually aid some of you into thinking twice before beating the crap out of your folder lock next time you go to do it. If not, hey I tried!
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=135734&d=1245285404
This is what it looks like when opened but you can't see it of course on most folders both due to the curvature of the lock contact which blocks light and also since there is a scale over it on liner locks. Oh and by the way. This is a technically correct contact. There is nothing wrong with this at all. Its how they are done. Everyone does them this way to some degree of a plus or minus for contact surface area with the only difference being how much actual lock comes into contact with the blade from one to another. Thats basically what you pay more for in a higher quality folder I think, like the production Gen III XM-18 by Rick Hinderer or the Sebenza which both have a bigger foot print contact that wears more evenly, lasts longer, sticks less and of course costs you more to get, as it should. It takes extra planning, effort and time to make a folder so it functions and wears the way these do so therefore you pay various amounts more for it depending as well as suffer public demand issues at times also. Now not all are done quite this well granted, and I won't kid you some kind of do it well sometimes and with others of the same model well, they are not as consistent but the thing is either way its still a correct lock that is solid.
I think based on my own experiements that mainly the diff is how long the lock would wear before crossing the tang and how bad it binds and sticks when locked up. This is particularly true on some models that require a good long break in when new. I'm sure everyone here has had at least one liner or frame lock folder that stuck and binded up terribly needing the number two lead pencil trick. Some just hit the blade pretty much in such a way as to make it stick in there and wedge really bad until the lock wears to make itself mate up correctly. There is not substitute or better way to break a lock in than by "normal use" but if one sticks really bad I'd say send it back to the manufacturer or maker before attempting to fix it yourself particularly if your fix is beating the snot out of it on a table top or board spine whacking it.
OK. I've said my peace. Wasn't going to but finally could not resist just one post and thats all I'm making here. This one has been beat to death countless times already anyways.
STR
) in this particular lock.