Knife you could rely on for survival

KingMC said:
BK20, because I have it and it's the best multi-purpose knife I've owned. I have yet to meet a task where the BK20 has not been able to succeed.

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We don't all have access to birch. :)
 
Hickory n steel said:
I would obviously be relying on what's in my pockets / with me for the week, but if I was going out I'd definately make sure these were with me.


In my opinion the one tool option is a myth.
My " utility axe " will get the chopping / splitting done as well as any hammering, and the Buck 119 will get the knife tasks handled along with what was already in my pocket / with me.
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Axe ? You will take axe with you in wildness ??
This will do better/faster job from your axe and your knife combined :DThis was tool I could rely on for survival ..............
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Natlek said:
Axe ? You will take axe with you in wildness ??
This will do better/faster job from your axe and your knife combined :DThis was tool I could rely on for survival ..............
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How are you going to skin and clean the rabbit or whatever that you trap for food, any fish you catch, or even do the fine work on the trap's trigger with that?
 
SoCalEDC said:
Because it's built like a tank, my Rat Worx mini MRX. Has never failed me. Goes on all my outdoor excursions on my belt holster.
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Maybe you should start to use this blade in yours outdoor excursions to see if it will failed or not ?
 
afishhunter said:
How are you going to skin and clean the rabbit or whatever that you trap for food, any fish you catch, or even do the fine work on the trap's trigger with that?
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Well my friend , hard part is to catch that rabbit ......... ;) I will skin them with piece of glass easy , not with this blade . To survive most important thing is to have shelter , heat and not get injured .When I see blade with hard wood or micarta for handle ..................that guy don t use that tool hard . If he use , blisters on hands will quickly learn him that rubber is the best/only choice for survive tool :D
 
afishhunter said:
How are you going to skin and clean the rabbit or whatever that you trap for food, any fish you catch, or even do the fine work on the trap's trigger with that?
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Look , most used part of this kind of tool is middle to cut/split hevy wood , rest stay very sharp to do some fine job ....................
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It would all depend on the "wilderness". Can I drive there? Do I back pack in (ie carry all of my stuff on my person)? What season of the year? But the OP did say "a long time"....

If I headed for the woods today, I'd take along either the Dozier Wilderness Knife or Dozier Pro Guides knife along with a dependable folder.
 
Gaston444 said:
Generally these days there is an obsession with knives that are far too small for most serious outdoor tasks. The assumption a whole slew of other tools will be there kind of makes the whole "survival knife" concept moot. Yes, if you bring your car with your whole living room in it, I predict you will make it... Thank God most "surviving" is done from a computer.

I've found some small tasks are sometimes better done by big, broad, thin edged fixed blades (10" long X 2" wide), because you can chop a crisper and neater cut using the large blade's momentum, whereas with a small blade you are pushing, pushing some more and then the material abruptly lets go, with less control for precise small tasks, such as delimbing neatly very small diameter branches.

For long term heavy use, you want a blade heavy point of balance at least 1/2" ahead of the guard, which means that, even with a decent non-full tang handle (full profile tangs make everything worse), the knife should have at least a 10" blade (11" will often give a full one inch balance point, doubling the balance bias for just more one inch).

The edge should be the thinnest edge possible (about 0.020" at the shoulders, which few makers offer on big knives, usually only Randall offers this from the box) with the widest blade possible, aiming for 2". Even with 1/4" stock, a 10" Full Flat Grind knife will be under pound (16-18 ounces for a 10", 20-22 ounces for an 11" blade), or about the same as the ridiculously heavy BK-2 that has half the blade length, so half the edge holding to begin with... This "object" is basically like carrying a one pound handle.

A blade width of 1.5" is way too narrow, and the stock should be at least 1/4" thick to dampen vibrations. 3/16" blades that are 10" plus will vibrate on wood, and this is made even worse with a full tang: The bigger Randalls have stick tangs and are closer to 1/4" stock (0.22" on a Model 12) for a reason.

The extremely wide blade with an extremely thin edge at the end combines so that even if the geometry is severely damaged by heavy use, just by virtue of the width, edge thinness and weight bias, it will still have the momentum to drive and cut into wood, whatever its condition. The edge strength and edge holding will be greatly helped by an appropriate micro-bevel: Good stainless should hold 15-17 dps with a 20 dps micro while chopping.

Yes a 2" broad 11" blade with a thin V edge will "stick" in wood (10" far less so), but only on the first few hits of a cut (in rain the sticking does get worse, but a simple tap directly opposite the edge will free the knife). Don't convex the edge to prevent sticking: Convex edges are less efficient at everything, that's why they don't stick into wood as much...

Small blades get dull faster, because there is less edge to wear down to begin with. But you'll never hear that in the current nonsense "mine is smaller than yours" atmosphere...

And please forget what you heard about not using stainless, unless all you can bring is a stone rather than a diamond hone. Just stay away from "powder" stainless steel: I have a stainless knife from the 1940s that does better in edge-holding than all the more common current powder steels. I have also seen cheap Taiwanese 420 do the same. Powder steels do hold their edge in rough use, but they lose their apex straightness very quickly: This doesn't matter for slicing (you can slice forever with a micro-folded apex), but for rough chopping it does, because a bent apex just gets more and more misaligned the more you chop.

Gaston
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Your ideas on cpm steels are wrong and not shared by any quality contributor here. New folks should dismiss them completely.

All you are talking about is chopping. If I want a knife for survival I want the knife to be good at knife tasks first but be able to flex into chopping if need be (all be it nowhere near as good as an ax or even a dedicated chopper, neither of which are better at being a knife than a knife).

I'm torn between my cpk field knife or the Spartan difensa. Two of the most comfortable and versitile handles I've ever had.
 
trevitrace said:
We don't all have access to birch. :)
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It certainly made the best demo pics but I’ve made do with whatever wood I’ve found; I’m sure it’d be able to handle any wood as easily as any other knife option out there. :)
 
You’re going to get a whole different set of answers here than you will on the survivalist boards. lol

For me if I have 1 knife, I’m picking my Tops Bob.

Ideally I’d like to carry a small fixed blade (like an Esee Izula or a Mora), Tops bob, and a small folding saw.
 
In decreasing order of size, if not beatability (the leuku is less robust than the SRK, but it has the length):

Skrama by Terävä/Varusteleka
Leuku by Heimo Roselli
SRK in Carbon V by Cold Steel
BK-15 by Ka-Bar/Becker Knife & Tool

And, of course . . .

SMATCHET!

Zieg
 
Gaston444 said:
Generally these days there is an obsession with knives that are far too small for most serious outdoor tasks. The assumption a whole slew of other tools will be there kind of makes the whole "survival knife" concept moot. Yes, if you bring your car with your whole living room in it, I predict you will make it... Thank God most "surviving" is done from a computer.

I've found some small tasks are sometimes better done by big, broad, thin edged fixed blades (10" long X 2" wide), because you can chop a crisper and neater cut using the large blade's momentum, whereas with a small blade you are pushing, pushing some more and then the material abruptly lets go, with less control for precise small tasks, such as delimbing neatly very small diameter branches.

For long term heavy use, you want a blade heavy point of balance at least 1/2" ahead of the guard, which means that, even with a decent non-full tang handle (full profile tangs make everything worse), the knife should have at least a 10" blade (11" will often give a full one inch balance point, doubling the balance bias for just more one inch).
Gaston
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Survival isn't building a log cabin on a homestead.;)
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