Knife you could rely on for survival

DracoKrys said:
If I wanted a folding saw, one on an SAK would seem most weight efficient.
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The one knife scenario comes up often, I think I'd choose my 1311.

Obviously having another item to compliment it would be awesome. But that's not what this thread asked so my one knife would be my 1311.
 
DracoKrys said:
I would like to get a custom made one someday, but I don't know who from, there's so much talent here :rolleyes:

What is the blade and handle material?
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It has a Sleipner blade and G10 handles. I've found Sleipner to be fairly tough, rust resistant, and good at holding an edge.
 
I would take this - my favorite fixed blade knife :)
IMG_20170112_090942_297.jpg
 
Gaston444 said:
Generally these days there is an obsession with knives that are far too small for most serious outdoor tasks. The assumption a whole slew of other tools will be there kind of makes the whole "survival knife" concept moot. Yes, if you bring your car with your whole living room in it, I predict you will make it... Thank God most "surviving" is done from a computer.

I've found some small tasks are sometimes better done by big, broad, thin edged fixed blades (10" long X 2" wide), because you can chop a crisper and neater cut using the large blade's momentum, whereas with a small blade you are pushing, pushing some more and then the material abruptly lets go, with less control for precise small tasks, such as delimbing neatly very small diameter branches.

For long term heavy use, you want a blade heavy point of balance at least 1/2" ahead of the guard, which means that, even with a decent non-full tang handle (full profile tangs make everything worse), the knife should have at least a 10" blade (11" will often give a full one inch balance point, doubling the balance bias for just more one inch).

The edge should be the thinnest edge possible (about 0.020" at the shoulders, which few makers offer on big knives, usually only Randall offers this from the box) with the widest blade possible, aiming for 2". Even with 1/4" stock, a 10" Full Flat Grind knife will be under pound (16-18 ounces for a 10", 20-22 ounces for an 11" blade), or about the same as the ridiculously heavy BK-2 that has half the blade length, so half the edge holding to begin with... This "object" is basically like carrying a one pound handle.

A blade width of 1.5" is way too narrow, and the stock should be at least 1/4" thick to dampen vibrations. 3/16" blades that are 10" plus will vibrate on wood, and this is made even worse with a full tang: The bigger Randalls have stick tangs and are closer to 1/4" stock (0.22" on a Model 12) for a reason.

The extremely wide blade with an extremely thin edge at the end combines so that even if the geometry is severely damaged by heavy use, just by virtue of the width, edge thinness and weight bias, it will still have the momentum to drive and cut into wood, whatever its condition. The edge strength and edge holding will be greatly helped by an appropriate micro-bevel: Good stainless should hold 15-17 dps with a 20 dps micro while chopping.

Yes a 2" broad 11" blade with a thin V edge will "stick" in wood (10" far less so), but only on the first few hits of a cut (in rain the sticking does get worse, but a simple tap directly opposite the edge will free the knife). Don't convex the edge to prevent sticking: Convex edges are less efficient at everything, that's why they don't stick into wood as much...

Small blades get dull faster, because there is less edge to wear down to begin with. But you'll never hear that in the current nonsense "mine is smaller than yours" atmosphere...

And please forget what you heard about not using stainless, unless all you can bring is a stone rather than a diamond hone. Just stay away from "powder" stainless steel: I have a stainless knife from the 1940s that does better in edge-holding than all the more common current powder steels. I have also seen cheap Taiwanese 420 do the same. Powder steels do hold their edge in rough use, but they lose their apex straightness very quickly: This doesn't matter for slicing (you can slice forever with a micro-folded apex), but for rough chopping it does, because a bent apex just gets more and more misaligned the more you chop.

Gaston
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Sounds like you need a bigass titanium sword! :D:thumbsup:
 
Natlek said:
Well my friend , hard part is to catch that rabbit ......... ;) I will skin them with piece of glass easy , not with this blade . To survive most important thing is to have shelter , heat and not get injured .When I see blade with hard wood or micarta for handle ..................that guy don t use that tool hard . If he use , blisters on hands will quickly learn him that rubber is the best/only choice for survive tool :D
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Where will you get the piece of glass?

And yet people have been successfully building shelters, making traps, skinning and cleaning their game and fish, collecting firewood, etc., etc. for over a century with
nothing but a sub four inch blade Mora, possibly paired with a SAK or jack knife.
The fur traders (AKA "Mountain Man") generally had two knives with them while out trapping. The first was their patch knife. It was used to cut patches when they loaded their muzzleloader. (The cloth around the ball was called a "patch". It was what engaged the rifling of the barrel, not the lead ball.)
Their second (primary) knife would be a 4 to 7 inch knife we would consider a "butcher" knife today. Wood handle slabs riveted to the tang, no guard, etc.
They did not depend on a knife, a cutting tool, that they trusted their life on, to chop or split wood. A hatchet, or tomahawk was always part of their kit. Some might have had an axe at their base camp, but they always had a hatchet or tomahawk with them, just like their knives, a cooking tin, along with powder and ball for their rifle.
I have done many "primitive camps" over the last 55 odd years. Not once did I ever have to use my knife to chop or split wood.
I have always had the proper tool for the job. A hatchet or tomahawk for chopping and splitting, if necessary. A sharp multi-blade pocket knife for things like making feather sticks, tent stakes, cleaning the day's catch, and so on, and a 4 to 5 inch thin stock fixed blade (like a Mora No. 1 or No. 2) to clean game and cooking uses.
Of course the Mora is just as capable as the pocket knife for making feather sticks, and the other things I use the pocket knife for.

If you doubt me, read the works by Nessmuk, Kephart, and E.H. Kreps.
(Admittedly, Mr. Kreps prefers the axe. In fact, the first three chapters give instructions on building and furnishing a log cabin using only the axe. He does not get into knives very much, and does not mention what style or pattern folding knife (if any) that he used.)

I admit I consider batoning a knife to be unwise. The fact of the matter is, regardless of the knife used to baton with, it will eventually break. It might take decades, or it might be the first time you baton with it, or at any time in between.
What good is a broken knife? Why take a chance?
I can carve a 6x6 post in half with any of my knives, if I had to. (Fortunately, I don't have to) It may take a while, but it can be done. There are better tools for that job though: an axe, hatchet, tomahawk, or saw.

As others have said in this thread, "The one knife for everything in the woods is a myth."
Use the proper tool for the job.
You would not use your knife to dig a latrine pit, if you had a choice in the matter, would you? Of course not. You would (at the very least) want to use an Army Surplus folding shovel, or worst case, a trowel.
The OP's situation is intentionally going into the boonies "for a long time."
Therefore, it is logical to think he would also take along the proper tools for chopping, digging, etc., a tent for shelter, and possibly a firearm or archery equipment for hunting, and a compact fishing rod and reel, as well.

As for an unexpected survival situation, you are going to use what you have with you. Period. End of discussion.
If, for example, you are out cross country skiing and get caught in a blizzard, are injured, or lost, or for any other reason are unable to continue, chances are you will not have your "do everything" chopper blade with you. At best you might have a folding knife in your pocket.
You should therefore know how to make an emergency shelter (or improve cover under a pine tree or willow, or other low branched tree) and start a fire with what you normally carry, and know how to start and keep a fire without it burning the forest down during the night.
 
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afishhunter said:
Where will you get the piece of glass?

And yet people have been successfully building shelters, making traps, skinning and cleaning their game and fish, collecting firewood, etc., etc. for over a century with
nothing but a sub four inch blade Mora, possibly paired with a SAK or jack knife.
The fur traders (AKA "Mountain Man") generally had two knives with them while out trapping. The first was their patch knife. It was used to cut patches when they loaded their muzzleloader. (The cloth around the ball was called a "patch". It was what engaged the rifling of the barrel, not the lead ball.)
Their second (primary) knife would be a 4 to 7 inch knife we would consider a "butcher" knife today. Wood handle slabs riveted to the tang, no guard, etc.
They did not depend on a knife, a cutting tool, that they trusted their life on, to chop or split wood. A hatchet, or tomahawk was always part of their kit. Some might have had an axe at their base camp, but they always had a hatchet or tomahawk with them, just like their knives, a cooking tin, along with powder and ball for their rifle.
I have done many "primitive camps" over the last 55 odd years. Not once did I ever have to use my knife to chop or split wood.
I have always had the proper tool for the job. A hatchet or tomahawk for chopping and splitting, if necessary. A sharp multi-blade pocket knife for things like making feather sticks, tent stakes, cleaning the day's catch, and so on, and a 4 to 5 inch thin stock fixed blade (like a Mora No. 1 or No. 2) to clean game and cooking uses.
Of course the Mora is just as capable as the pocket knife for making feather sticks, and the other things I use the pocket knife for.

If you doubt me, read the works by Nessmuk, Kephart, and E.H. Kreps.
(Admittedly, Mr. Kreps prefers the axe. In fact, the first three chapters give instructions on building and furnishing a log cabin using only the axe. He does not get into knives very much, and does not mention what style or pattern folding knife (if any) that he used.)

I admit I consider batoning a knife to be unwise. The fact of the matter is, regardless of the knife used to baton with, it will eventually break. It might take decades, or it might be the first time you baton with it, or at any time in between.
What good is a broken knife? Why take a chance?
I can carve a 6x6 post in half with any of my knives, if I had to. (Fortunately, I don't have to) It may take a while, but it can be done. There are better tools for that job though: an axe, hatchet, tomahawk, or saw.

As others have said in this thread, "The one knife for everything in the woods is a myth."
Use the proper tool for the job.
You would not use your knife to dig a latrine pit, if you had a choice in the matter, would you? Of course not. You would (at the very least) want to use an Army Surplus folding shovel, or worst case, a trowel.
The OP's situation is intentionally going into the boonies "for a long time."
Therefore, it is logical to think he would also take along the proper tools for chopping, digging, etc., a tent for shelter, and possibly a firearm or archery equipment for hunting, and a compact fishing rod and reel, as well.

As for an unexpected survival situation, you are going to use what you have with you. Period. End of discussion.
If, for example, you are out cross country skiing and get caught in a blizzard, are injured, or lost, or for any other reason are unable to continue, chances are you will not have your "do everything" chopper blade with you. At best you might have a folding knife in your pocket.
You should therefore know how to make an emergency shelter (or improve cover under a pine tree or willow, or other low branched tree) and start a fire with what you normally carry, and know how to start and keep a fire without it burning the forest down during the night.
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You don't take broken glass shards into the woods with you? Amateur. :D
 
afishhunter said:
Where will you get the piece of glass?

And yet people have been successfully building shelters, making traps, skinning and cleaning their game and fish, collecting firewood, etc., etc. for over a century with
nothing but a sub four inch blade Mora, possibly paired with a SAK or jack knife.
The fur traders (AKA "Mountain Man") generally had two knives with them while out trapping. The first was their patch knife. It was used to cut patches when they loaded their muzzleloader. (The cloth around the ball was called a "patch". It was what engaged the rifling of the barrel, not the lead ball.)
Their second (primary) knife would be a 4 to 7 inch knife we would consider a "butcher" knife today. Wood handle slabs riveted to the tang, no guard, etc.
They did not depend on a knife, a cutting tool, that they trusted their life on, to chop or split wood. A hatchet, or tomahawk was always part of their kit. Some might have had an axe at their base camp, but they always had a hatchet or tomahawk with them, just like their knives, a cooking tin, along with powder and ball for their rifle.
I have done many "primitive camps" over the last 55 odd years. Not once did I ever have to use my knife to chop or split wood.
I have always had the proper tool for the job. A hatchet or tomahawk for chopping and splitting, if necessary. A sharp multi-blade pocket knife for things like making feather sticks, tent stakes, cleaning the day's catch, and so on, and a 4 to 5 inch thin stock fixed blade (like a Mora No. 1 or No. 2) to clean game and cooking uses.
Of course the Mora is just as capable as the pocket knife for making feather sticks, and the other things I use the pocket knife for.

If you doubt me, read the works by Nessmuk, Kephart, and E.H. Kreps.
(Admittedly, Mr. Kreps prefers the axe. In fact, the first three chapters give instructions on building and furnishing a log cabin using only the axe. He does not get into knives very much, and does not mention what style or pattern folding knife (if any) that he used.)

I admit I consider batoning a knife to be unwise. The fact of the matter is, regardless of the knife used to baton with, it will eventually break. It might take decades, or it might be the first time you baton with it, or at any time in between.
What good is a broken knife? Why take a chance?
I can carve a 6x6 post in half with any of my knives, if I had to. (Fortunately, I don't have to) It may take a while, but it can be done. There are better tools for that job though: an axe, hatchet, tomahawk, or saw.

As others have said in this thread, "The one knife for everything in the woods is a myth."
Use the proper tool for the job.
You would not use your knife to dig a latrine pit, if you had a choice in the matter, would you? Of course not. You would (at the very least) want to use an Army Surplus folding shovel, or worst case, a trowel.
The OP's situation is intentionally going into the boonies "for a long time."
Therefore, it is logical to think he would also take along the proper tools for chopping, digging, etc., a tent for shelter, and possibly a firearm or archery equipment for hunting, and a compact fishing rod and reel, as well.

As for an unexpected survival situation, you are going to use what you have with you. Period. End of discussion.
If, for example, you are out cross country skiing and get caught in a blizzard, are injured, or lost, or for any other reason are unable to continue, chances are you will not have your "do everything" chopper blade with you. At best you might have a folding knife in your pocket.
You should therefore know how to make an emergency shelter (or improve cover under a pine tree or willow, or other low branched tree) and start a fire with what you normally carry, and know how to start and keep a fire without it burning the forest down during the night.
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I can use piece of sharp stone instead of glass........My point is first you must catch your dinner , it is much easy after that ;)
Well , I agree with you almost everything you say . People survive millennium with knife made from animal bone :thumbsup: But if I have choice /
There Can Be Only One/ I will always choose to take biggest knife I have /my small parang in my case/ because big knife can do anything that can small knife .And a small knife can only do few things from what can do BIG knife . Make sence ? :D
 
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BTW, even when I go recreational gold prospecting here in my local mountains, I bring adequate 3-4 day survival basics..even being 2-3 miles in from my car.
In this area, unexpected fires or an earthquake can happen without warning and if a piece of mountain side should break off and block the trail, I can be stuck back there. I'm always aware of this.
 
SoCalEDC said:
BTW, even when I go recreational gold prospecting here in my local mountains, I bring adequate 3-4 day survival basics..even being 2-3 miles in from my car.
In this area, unexpected fires or an earthquake can happen without warning and if a piece of mountain side should break off and block the trail, I can be stuck back there. I'm always aware of this.
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It happened to us while we are on fishing .Strong wind storm ......... it has collapsed a lot of big tree deep in mountain road and blocked our way back . Fortunately we always have smal STIHL chainsaw in our 4x4 truck .......... Most likely I would still trying to make a pass with my parang if we have not have that chainsaw :D
 
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