know i shouldnt, but im porr - NICK mod (pics)

im kind of sad to move over to the mod because it bumps out myt pr in daily carry.... i just dont need 2 prybars, and the sj is better for the task.

the pr is perfect though :(
 
last of the nick mods i had planned. been sitting on my desk for a long time now, finally got around to remaking it... this one has a very, very very subtly curvier edge then the last version.

busse-nick-finalmod.jpg
 
How about posting a picture of all three next to each other for a comparison? Do you have a unmodified one still to add to the picture? Thanks.
 
i dont have an unmodified nick left. all i have is the satin jack style mod and the gyoto style mod. its honestlly a pretty small modification, since im not changing any of the bevels or anything, but it does have a huge impact in cutting performance.

dremel cut out disk at 10,000 rpm's :( . i do it about an inch above a bucket of cold water, dipping ever 1/4 second of grinding, basically grinding it in the water (wich i would do if i could). i figure that even if i do mess up the heat treat on the kitchen knife, it'll still be better then 420 and some of the other reletively common kitchen knife steels. does kind of suck that im left wondering on the satin jack style mod though... so, im not sure if iether of them had the heat treat damaged or not, needless to say if they ever do break, i'll take the loss.
 
i did notice 2 small things that are... odd with it. not a problem at all, just odd. the rivets are flared out, but they dont connect to the micarta on the outer rim, so theres a catchy part that feels a little sharp, but you have to run your finger across it to notice it, so its not really a problem at all.


and theres a recurve near the back end of the blade :confused: i noticed it on first one i had as well, but i ground it out. on this one, i actually took off a little of the back end (where the choil would be) to try to counteract what looked like a slight recurve, but when i took it to work today to break it in, sure enough there was a slight recurve in the only area i didnt grind on. it can be taken out with a sharpening stone, but its a small enough problem that im to lazy to fix it any time soon (/ever)...

interesting stuff-
 
Wow, that sounds like a real task. However, good outcomes.

About INFI's heat treat: from what I've read INFI actually gets a little harder if you overheat it (and more brittle of course). In this way it's different from most cutlery steels, which usually get softer. On a kitchen knife, the danger then is perhaps riskable. YMMV
 
well, keep in mind that the majority/all of whats being ground on is the thickness of a penny :D so any mods on this are fairly easy and fast... xxxl nick on the other hand - that would take many hours...
 
scratch that :rolleyes:

went ahead and ground a sight curve into the back end, so the entire blade is now a complete curve, with an almost flat part near the back end (the very back end being a little stronger curve. i just wasnt going to be happy till i fixed that....
 
one last, final (honest this time :rolleyes: ) mod to the # 161 NICK, wich was to make the point an actual point.

when i was doing it with the dremel, the top was eneven, and dropped off at the emediate tip, creating a rounded poorly penetrating geometry.

finally got a 4x36" sander, so i was able to straighten out the top, and make the point actually pointy.


it truly rocks now.


(till the break of dawn.)

:D
 
my sonfy f828 is currently getting fixed (for way more money then i thought it would be :( ), so the pics are both blury and not as close as i would have normally got them... combined with photoshop not working on my comp, and this is the best i can do :rolleyes:

its really a tiny mod, but makes a huge difference in the feel and performance of the knife. i was getting really tired of having to put the knife near perpendicular to things when i wanted to use the tip. there is a slight bevel on the upper corners, so it creates an extremely slight version of a penetrator tip... mostly just wanted to take of the sharp corners to save the wear and tear on my sheath.


nick-mod-spine.jpg


nick-mod-tip.jpg
 
well... i was getting tired of it as it was. didnt like how tall it was considering its thinness. it ended up being difficult to index the edge without looking at it, and for whatever reason, it was weeeeeird getting that initial penetration into objects... possibly because its actually reletively thick behind the edge compared to what it was originally, or compared to something like the nimravus, or maybe i just wasnt keeping the edge keen enough... it also torqued in the hand when you pushed on it because of how tall and thin it was.

so now its a recurve with a pointier tip (less belly in the front) :)


busse_nick-ucsk-1-4-lesj.jpg


-was

and is now-
smalldsc01345.jpg


smalldsc01341.jpg
 
basically for the steel base. i have a hard time getting the apex edition to stay still when i sharpen.
 
ALRIGHT.... alright..... alright....

so maybe the modifications on this knife wont stop until i have a skeleton key sized blade left....

gonna try to make this into a slightly more symetically ground blade on the main grind, instead of the chisel grind it came with....

this is actual knife making modifications, rather then the steel cutting i was doing before, so it could go horribly, horribly wrong. we will see..... why am i doing this? because i tried to cut an apple (and hit my thumb) with it the other day, and instead of slicing through like it should, it got half way, and the apple peice broke in 2. meaning basically that i was wedging it appart rather then cutting it in two. i wish that to not be the case....

it's doing that because its actually quite thick directly behind the edge for how thin the rest of the knife is, so the material is quickly pushed wide apart rather then gradually.




but the real fun is gonna be this - i think i found a use for the cuttoff peice that was left over when i made this knife out of the nick. it will be a skeleton key sized blade (and basically the same shape), but it will a slightly taller handle then the skeleton key, and it will be thicker, made of micarta. the tang will only be for half of the handle, wich will be made of black linen micarta....

it should be fun. if it turns out, i may try switching over to it to see how it performs as a daily cutter... cause if you can do with less (legally), it's probably a good thing... thick thickness at the spine of the knife would be 1/32" thick
 
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