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After seeing you newest pics, I would like to change mine to no bolsters or liners. I think the burlap and bullseye will make this design very cool looking.
 
As flaky as I am, I should clarify my preference in one post. My final decision is bolsters, bullseye, burlap and sheath.
I sure want to see one of these in the Amber too. It'll have to wait though.
 
Andy --

I'm up at higher altitude, around 6000', and have a very dry climate. We get less than 14" of rain per year and the humidity can easily be 20%, maybe less. I've noticed that the wood handles on my knives often shrink up some over time. Same with furniture, etc.... Is there a wood that you would recommend for my knife? Desert Iron wood perhaps? Or a stabilized wood? This knife has such great lines that I think wood is really the way to go aesthetically, but I need to take into account the harsh environment. I know we often think of wet conditions as being harsh, but I think this dryness may be just as tough on some woods.
 
Still on the fence but I would be interested in the following if I can get a price and any idea on delivery dates? Mainly to recover from this crazy holiday : )

No Bolsters, Shadetree burlap micarta (would like thick handle) with red liners, standard bullseye tube (is it possible to have the bullseye tube have a red ring?) and corby bolt with Sheath.

Thanks
 
Rotte, when I went to Vegas, and back again with the knives, it did hell on them. Wierd stuff. Stabalized wood, and even micarta had some issues. But, much less than others. Cocobolo wasn't bad. May I suggest some badass custom phenolics from FOD?
 
wannabullet said:
Still on the fence but I would be interested in the following if I can get a price and any idea on delivery dates? Mainly to recover from this crazy holiday : )

No Bolsters, Shadetree burlap micarta (would like thick handle) with red liners, standard bullseye tube (is it possible to have the bullseye tube have a red ring?) and corby bolt with Sheath.

Thanks
Click to expand...

Once the run is started I try to finish off one or two from the run with each batch. It could take months to finish this up, where the first ones will probably start coming out in Feb.

I've stopped using the colored inner layers on bullseye tubes. This is because the dang things are so hard to finish. I have nat micarta color, jade g-10, and now, black carbon fibre.

Lookin at $150 plus the handle upgrade.
 
Fiddleback said:
Once the run is started I try to finish off one or two from the run with each batch. It could take months to finish this up, where the first ones will probably start coming out in Feb.

I've stopped using the colored inner layers on bullseye tubes. This is because the dang things are so hard to finish. I have nat micarta color, jade g-10, and now, black carbon fibre.

Lookin at $150 plus the handle upgrade.
Click to expand...

Hey Andy,

How about Black Carbon fibre with bright yellow liners.
 
Fiddleback said:
"badass custom phenolics from FOD"
Click to expand...


Now who can argue with that?

But I suspect that with phenolics, the bolsters are no longer appropriate. So let's change the order to:

Badass custom phenolic handle slabs
2 mosaic pins
Liners at maker's discretion
No Bolsters
No Bullseye

Oh, I'm feelin' it now.
 
Is there a thread around that shows a good variety of the available wood types?
 
Sign me up!
No Bolsters.
Bocote. (Will it cost more?)
Is it possible to have no swedge? Can I ask what the swedge is for?
Convex Grind.
No Sheath, I want to make my own.
 
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zhangmaster12 said:
Sign me up!
No Bolsters.
Bocote. (Will it cost more?)
Is it possible to have no swedge? Can I ask what the swedge is for?
Convex Grind.
No Sheath, I want to make my own.
Click to expand...

OK. I've got you down. I didn't design this one, so I can't answer for the swedge, but I don't mind not putting it in. In fact, its very hard to get right, so I'd love to not use it when folks don't want one. Bocote is standard price. Sounds gorgeous!
 
I remember Kismet said the swedge was for separating joints when dressing an animal.

but IIRC Kismet's rather blunt somewhat American Tanto point on the original was something that was planned on with a great deal of thought and foresight and was made that way with a specific purpose in mind..... Something about disjointing tough animal joints at the socket; cutting ligaments or some such thing..... Even though it sorta seems like Kismet was bemoaning something about his lack of skill or whatever preventing him getting a sharp point where the sharp point was supposed to be and instead getting the rounded off point.....
Click to expand...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302082
 
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So I take it the swedge is fully sharpened-or is supposed to be, anyway?
 
The swedge on the original was not sharpened. I understand this feature allows the point to be inserted edge up inside an animal's hide, and ride the swedged spine along the muscle without damaging it. I'm not interested in trying to sharpen the swedges.
 
Thanks Andy! It was kind of hard to tell from the pictures, but I could see it going either way.
 
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