kydex help please

Just to chime in with my process details...
I use 0.093" thick Kydex or Concealex exclusively, even on small knives. With a good press it holds the knife securely with no problems, and it's totally bombproof.
I also subscribe to the "stand and rock" method. Works good. I have had to repress a few, but you can always reheat your material and start over when you aren't 100% satisfied. Also, I never have gotten a perfect press with the foam pad. It always turns out too tight at the lip, so you always have to do some modification of fit with the heat gun.
I always use Chicago screws. They hold effectively, are replaceable if damaged, the sheath can be taken apart, a new clip can be added if broken, etc. They add so much versatility I don't see a reason, other than cost, to not use them at least for certain parts of the sheath.
Temperature...I always heat for a while at 225. Concealex shrinks when overheated, causing it to thicken dramatically. In my experience Kydex is much more forgiving to overheating than Concealex, which will warp very quickly if left unattended.

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My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html

 
Hey i have a question

i have just purchased my first custom hand made knife with a kydex sheath and the hole package is very nice...one problem..the sheath....it scratches the blade...not alot just little scratches..so i was wondering do they make kydex with something that does not rub the blade like felt or some other cloth like materal??
 
Hey i have a question

i have just purchased my first custom hand made knife with a kydex sheath and the hole package is very nice...one problem..the sheath....it scratches the blade...not alot just little scratches..so i was wondering do they make kydex with something that does not rub the blade like felt or some other cloth like materal??
 
Well, it's too late to do anything about it now...Chris Hatin makes sheaths with some sort of insert. I can't wait to get a knife from him to review it and let you know how it works. The same principle is being worked on by others, too. The trick is to find a material that doesn't hold water, isn't bulky, and is durable. Easier said than done. For the average synthetic sheath maker, the disclaimer is always "My sheaths are great, but sooner or later they WILL abrade and scratch every knife.." That's one of the main drawbacks to the material. Choose the lesser of two evils and satin finish your blades and you'll be pretty happy with Kydex/Concealex.

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My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html

 
Hey just got off the phone with a local plastics dealer and i recieved a quote for .060 thick kydex for $64.00 for a 4'x8' sheet....thats a pretty good price campared to what the knife suppliers offer,,,isn't it?
 
ok one last post i swear
smile.gif


what do you guys use to cut the stuff with..if i buy a large sheet whats the best method for cutting it

thanks guy's
 
Guys,

Like practically every other aspect of knifemaking, you are just going to have learn Kydex by practice. I have studied every single post in this forum, on Kydex, and examined just about everyone's website and I still can't get it right! I have been at it for three weeks, and haven't made a sheath yet that I would want anyone else to see.

What I have learned, is that ATBarr and Chiro75 know of what they speak. Also, don't try to save material. This stuff shrinks and warps and does all sorts of wierd stuff.

I hope you do better at it than I have. Keep trying.
 
Randy...

Use a Boxcutter or carpet knife to cut it with...Score it,,and Snap!

I run the carpet knife down a level.
Trium with a bandsaw and sand excess off..
It's a dirty job,,so wear the proper protective gear!

ttyle Eric...

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Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel
Custom made, High Quality
Concealex Sheaths and Tool Holsters
Canada's Only Custom Concealex Shop!

 
Hi Ben...

Other than their respective looks,, not much..Kydex has a pattern on it like wood grain almost,,and Concealex is a dull matt finish...

Although I prefer the Concealex they both work about the same with some minor differences in working the material...

Both turn out nice products...

ttyle Eric...

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Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel
Custom made, High Quality
Concealex Sheaths and Tool Holsters
Canada's Only Custom Concealex Shop!

 
Randybruce, that is a good price for the material you ordered. I think you went with a wimpy, girly-mon thickness, but to each his own!
biggrin.gif
I pay about $115 after taxes for a 4x8 sheet of the good stuff (0.093" thick).
As far as differences between Concealex and Kydex:
1) Both are actually different polymers, so they aren't the same thing being sold under different names.
2) Concealex has a smooth, matte finish and comes in limited textures and colors. Kydex comes in about 12 thicknesses, has TONS of colors and two dozen textures (tricky thing is finding them available and at what price and quantity), and there are several types, most common for knives is Kydex 100. Kydex 100 is fairly variable in color, although Kleerdex seems to make several different shades of black. I think I ordered Calcutta black, which is nice and dark. The typical Kydex we order has a rougher texture and is shinier than the Concealex.
3) Concealex is stiffer once the final product is totally cooled. This comes into play with retention of the knife, as well as when considering belt loop design.
4) Concealex seems to hug the contours and bevels of the knife better, giving a press that shows more of the knife's shape.
5) Concealex seems to me, at least, to be more finicky to the way it reacts to heat. Kydex seems more forgiving in the heat area, while Concealex is more willing to warp, thicken, etc from overheating. My advice is to start at lower heats (i.e. 250-275) and if you aren't satisfied with that bump up the heat in 10 degree increments until you find your sweet spot.

I was a die-hard Kydex fan until I really started playing with Concealex and made a few changes in design to accommodate the material's properties. Although i think it is a little harder to work with, I really do like the Concealex product, and if I was going to keep on with making sheaths, I would use it exclusively once my Kydex stores ran out. It is also priced pretty nicely.

------------------
My Custom Kydex Sheath page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html

 
One more post and we get flames!
smile.gif


ttyle Eric...

------------------
Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel
Custom made, High Quality
Concealex Sheaths and Tool Holsters
Canada's Only Custom Concealex Shop!

 
We get flames with this post? Thanks for everyones input. It really helps. I just finished my first kydex and it came out good if I say so myself. It took 2 days and 3 sq. ft. of kydex. The only thing is the belt loop is kind of flimsey. I am getting .090" thick for a heavier one. I will try the carbon fiber look concealex next. Thanks again, Bruce Bump
 
Hey Bruce....

Cool...
I'm glad you learned something from this..

Don't worry you'll get it...
It took me about a half a sheet before I got it where I wanted it..

Just ordered 4 1/2 full sheets last week..That should keep me busy for awhile...

About the belt loops,,you can use .060 depending on what type of loop you want...
It's its a regular belt loop,,than thats fine. You aren't going to break it..

But if it's a J hook or a Snail shell,,then .90 would be better...

Just keep at it.. It's quite fun once you get the hang of it..

ttyle Eric...

------------------
Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel
Custom made, High Quality
Concealex Sheaths and Tool Holsters
Canada's Only Custom Concealex Shop!

 
O.K., What's a J-hook and a snail shell.
How many square feet will the average beginner need to make one decent (not perfect) sheath for a 4" fixed blade? I realize it will be tough to awnser but take your best guess. I'd rather order too much than get half way through and go "oh no!"
Thanks

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~~TOM~~
 
Tom...

A J hook is simply just that,, look like a J. The small part of the J hooks under the belt..

A snail loop looks like a snail shell or a "G" hook I call it. It's a full belt loop,, but the top is open...Both are used for IWB carry...

For a 4 " blade I'd use 6-7 inches in length,, and assuming the blade is 1 inch wide I'd use about 3" wide piece of concealex,, so roughly 7" X 3" piece of concealex.. That's all I need...

Very little waste if possible....

ttyle Eric....

------------------
Eric E. Noeldechen
On/Scene Tactical
http://www.mnsi.net/~nbtnoel
Custom made, High Quality
Concealex Sheaths and Tool Holsters
Canada's Only Custom Concealex Shop!



[This message has been edited by Normark (edited 01-15-2000).]
 
Great post guys lots of great info and ideas. I have read all I can about Kydex forming and I have still got a couple of questions.

1. I have started making a press to clamp up my sheaths something like Dale Sandberg's Press from the kydex article in Tactical Knives Jan 2000 Issue. On his press however he was using one layer of closed cell foam and I am planning on using two layers top and bottom of regular foam approximately 2" thick. I don't understand the spraying of adhesive on the foam was that to laminate two pieces of thinner foam together. If so I understand. Secondly in the article from TK it advocates covering the foam with some cotton material. Is this necessary, should I just cover it as I make my press?

2. I want to use a combination of eyelets and Chicago Screws. I had a web site for Chicago Screws from the maker but the page is no longer available. Is there another source other than blade tech or should I just order 100 from Tim Wegner. Also I need information about how to set the eyelets any held would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Jim

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The warrior will endure great personal hardship in order to stand on a hill, howl at the moon, and proclaim his domain over all he surveys. Fredrick Lovert- Author


[This message has been edited by Dt_Trainer (edited 01-15-2000).]
 
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