least chippy super steel

As the boat brokers and used car salesmen would say "that'l buff right out." :D
115Italian said:
S30v does tend to chip
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Damn hollow grinds. Way to thin for me. I figure a coarse diamond stone and then a strop should bring this baby back to life
 
I can take any knife and sharpen it 45° per side and it will never chip
But whats the point if I can't cut anything because it's too obtuse?
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Oh Deadbox,

You can still cut through LOTS of stuff with your 45° per side; you just got to use a bigger sledge hammer. Most ULTRA LIGHT high performance back packs have a built in sledge hammer sheath because the modern makers know how real woodsmen love their stoat knives and so provide for that. :p

Oh wait . . . I may be making stuff up again . . . :rolleyes:

Disapointed with video
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Sorry here's a better one.
You'll love this one for sure.

[video=youtube;KXt_od8GDO4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXt_od8GDO4[/video]
 
trevitrace :

Careful readers have fewer questions:

In any case I WILL call them next week day I have off. That would be Tue the 13th. Maybe I can catch them in the morning before that; not sure.
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Turns out I can E-mail them so I might tonight.
You'll be the first I contact with the "solution". Since the blade is hard I can't imagine what that can be but . . . soon . . . chill.
 
Wowbagger said:
trevitrace :

Careful readers have fewer questions:



Turns out I can E-mail them so I might tonight.
You'll be the first I contact with the "solution". Since the blade is hard I can't imagine what that can be but . . . soon . . . chill.
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Exactly. Chill. Wait until you see what they say/find out what the issue is rather than perhaps giving people the impression that a manix wearing s110v is crap.

Phrasing is important.
 
I've got a drop point mini grip that I've been beating up lately. I haven't gotten it to lose its edge, much less chip. The only reason I mention the specific knife is so that people can make the exact blade geometry in their head. I'll update it I manage to chip the blade
 
E-mail to Spyderco requesting they consider taking my CPM-S110V in for inspection :

SENT
 
I prefer stainless for a folder, especially in hot or humid conditions. Ultimate toughness isn't really an issue for folders. Cpm154 would be a good choice. Also there is nothing wrong with S35VN. The Sandvik steels are tough, though maybe not the best edge retention.
 
FWIW, I have been using a Spyderco Manix in S110V with no problems, has stayed sharp for quite a while now doing everything from opening boxes, cutting zip-ties and webbing. I have used S110V from AKS in quite a few folders now and a few small fixed blades with no reorted issues. I have the blades HT'd by Peters' to RC 63. The edges are not as thin as on the spyderco, but they still perform exceptionally well.
 
Trevor_Phillips said:
I've got a drop point mini grip that I've been beating up lately. I haven't gotten it to lose its edge, much less chip. The only reason I mention the specific knife is so that people can make the exact blade geometry in their head. I'll update it I manage to chip the blade
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Yeah, I also have a grip, and I also get the feeling I could beat the hell out of it and it would last well. I was looking for more of a "super steel" than 154cm, but 154cm does get the job done.
I got my Spyderco Gayle Bradley, and the fit and finish, lockup are all flawless. In fact, I have never had a blade with such exact tolerances and so clean.unfortunately, I wanted something I could beat on, and this knife is simply too lovely to beat on, so in the end I think maybe I was a bit confused about what I wanted. Maybe a hard use should only really be a fixed blade, or at least a folder that is nothing pretty/fancy or "super"
 
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Use your new knife like you stole it, before you but another one. You'll likely learn more about what you need in a folder and should also be impressed with M4, in the end.
 
summerofgeorge1 said:
Yeah, I also have a grip, and I also get the feeling I could beat the hell out of it and it would last well. I was looking for more of a "super steel" than 154cm, but 154cm does get the job done.
I got my Spyderco Gayle Bradley, and the fit and finish, lockup are all flawless. In fact, I have never had a blade with such exact tolerances and so clean.unfortunately, I wanted something I could beat on, and this knife is simply too lovely to beat on, so in the end I think maybe I was a bit confused about what I wanted. Maybe a hard use should only really be a fixed blade, or at least a folder that is nothing pretty/fancy or "super"
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Derp. I forgot to specify the steel I got it in. I used their custom shop and got the blade in M4
 
Personally Ive had the best luck with M4 to me it is the best steel for edc. Ive heard some well respected people in the BF world say its not that great but I must say I disagree wholeheartedly. It stays razor sharp for very long time, can be taken to a very low angle, and resists chipping better than most of the other steels ive used. As a bonus, it isn't stainless so it will develop a beautiful patina over time. My para2 in S30v chips like crazy when I do anything remotely demanding of it. To be specific when im stripping wire at work it chips every time. S35vn is a vast improvement over s30v when it comes to resisting chips, also, m390, cpm-154, or even aus-8 resist chips pretty well in my experience. Keep in mind that I like to keep a 30 degree edge on my knives as in aids in cutting ability. If you were to put a 40-45 degree edge on spyderco s30v im sure it would eliminate chipping.
 
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For a folder, my favorites would be M4, K390, M390/20CV/204P, PD1/cruwear, 3V. K390 would be my favorite for non stainless, 10v is similar, but K390 has better toughness. Stainless, I love M390/20CV/204P, such a great all around steel for a folder! I would go with PD1/cruwear if you are planning on being extremely hard on the knife. It has great toughness and edge retention, also has good corrosion resistance for a non-stainless. It is a great all around non-stainless!! Same with 3V. M4 is great, I find it is easy to sharpen, gets extremely sharp, and good toughness.

I would go with one of the better nitrogen steels if you could choose them. They're very corrosion resistant, along with great toughness. Vanax, Z-Finit, nitrobe, etc.
 
The boker Anso in 3v is a nice folder, supposed to have a good heat treat too (62-63 hrc, gains sone edge retention but loses quite a bit of toughness but still plenty tough for a folder) and decent price. Did some widdling and chopping(as much chopping as a ~5oz 3 3/4 incg blade can do) on some AZ sun dried maple and edge was still mint. Feels really nice in gand too, nice coating on the Aluminum frames.
 
S7 at no higher than 58-59. All of the folks who own my stuff in S7 are very happy with it.
 
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