Below are links to three tutorials I have written that may be of help.
Been doing it long enough I figured I'd pass aloong a bit of what I've learned.
Mexican Loop Sheath Tutorial Link
How to Make a Stitching Pony
Leather Stitching Tutorial
IIRC, shoulder is tougher than belly - which is softer for tooling.
Sorry pendentive but that's incorrect info sort of. IMO - Belly leather is just plain crap period! Too soft and spongy most of the time and therefore does NOT tool real well. I know that they are sold as "tooling bellies" but.... Good tooling leather must have a good, tight grain or it will "wash" out.
Here's some info on the various types and grades of cowhide.
Price reflects quality in two ways - where it was tanned (generally either USA or South American/Mexican - there are European tanned hides as well and they are normally premium quality) and the grade. Of the two most commonly tanned hides, USA tanned (Wicket & Craig, Herman Oak, Howes, Wes-Tan, etc.)is normally the best tanning, but you can get good SA/Mex. Grade is based on how "clean" the face of the hide is i.e how free of range marks and brands as well as how tight the back or flesh side is.(just as important as a good face.) No hide is totally free of range marks and frankly as long as the hide is not badly scarred I like them as they add "character". Brands can be cut around, but they do take up space, but hides with brands are normally less expensive.
1) IMO don't even bother with bellies. On the chart above cuts F/H and G/I are the bellies.
2) Shoulders/premium shoulders: Same animal basically. Probably the most used Veg-tan leather for sheath/holster making - the most bang for the buck normally due to size and lack of belly leather along the edges. Difference between the two is quality based on grade as explained above. BTW Demers Leather (1-800-336-3772), carries some of the best double shoulders I know of. They split 12 oz hides down to thickness for a very tight/clean back. Referring to the chart above: Double shoulders (average 14-16 sq ft) = parts A, B, C, F, & G. Trimmed shoulders have parts A, F, & G trimmed off. A single shoulder is half of a double shoulder.
3) Nature-Tand, Oak Leaf, etc. - proprietary names for various lines of veg-tanned hides.
4) Saddling/Skirting: heavy weight (10+ ounces) veg-tan sides normally used for making saddles. It is finished by the tanneries with a bit more oil so that it retains it's flexibility. It is thicker than necessary for most knife sheath work, although for big Bowies or swords it can be the thing to use.
5) Kip is a hide from a large calf rather than a mature cow. Usually comes in lighter weights only and I have noticed when using it that the grain is usually not quite as tight as cow hide.
6) Sides: The most common cut/size of leather sold average 20-24 sq ft. A side is half of a full hide split longitudinally along the line between B/C, D/E. Trimmed sides have the belly sections cut off.
7) Back or Bends: The cleanest most even (and therefore most expensive) part of a hide consists of sections D & E. Hope this helps.
Carving or stamping requires the best quality hide available.
If you can afford it get the best leather possible. For my own use I buy almost exclusively from Wickett & Craig (
www.wickett-craig.com or 1-800-826-6379 ext 216) and I usually buy "b" grade backs - virtually no belly leather. The double shoulders from Demers (1-888-336-3772) are excellent also and may be the best overall buy for sheath makers.
If you are just starting out, don't have a lot of spare cash, and are unsure of what to get I'd recommend the single shoulders in 6/7oz weight from Tandy/Leather Factory. They average about 6-8 sq ft and sell for $4.99 a sq ft. Best for blades under 6".
Happy Trails - Chuck
I will practice tonight though. 