leather making 101

Got another question -- what kind of glue do you guys use?
 
I use contact cement like this:

2530.JPG



I am open to better ideas, though.

I have this problem that I make a sheath every month or so...:rolleyes: ...and so my contact cement always dries up over 3-4 months. Is this normal? I try to keep it closed as much as humanly possible, but it still dries up.


What about Barge Cement at Tandy's?

Any better?

2510.JPG
 
I guess I'm going to run to Tandy's tomorrow for lunch -- I got some more supplies to pick up. :D
 
I have to have one of those, a "star wheel" doohickey, some dye, beeswax, and some real glue (I have leather rubber cement glue -- I had no idea what to buy). Might have to pick up a instruction booklet on how to do stitches too. :D (that's a hint for some of you guys to explain in detail how to use the awl.)
 
Originally posted by Burchtree
I have to have one of those, a "star wheel" doohickey, some dye, beeswax, and some real glue (I have leather rubber cement glue -- I had no idea what to buy). Might have to pick up a instruction booklet on how to do stitches too. :D (that's a hint for some of you guys to explain in detail how to use the awl.)
Click to expand...

star-wheel doohickey = overstitcher

For what it's worth - get the largest one - I believe it's a number 5 (5 stitches per inch). I have a number 6 and it's almost too tedious for me.



Contact cement instead of rubber cement. 100 times stronger.


Get one of the guys at the Tandy place to do a row of stitching for you. They like that kind of stuff...:D


About the dye - try antiquing dye. It will bring out the highlights of any tooling you do.


Dan
 
Thanks for the info -- Just got off the phone with Gary Graley, and I think I got the stitching down. We'll see tomorrow night after another trip to Tandy's though. :D
 
on the glue/cement
I use Duco cement it work real fast bonds on leather
very nicely, the tube has a nice little nozzle to apply with.
hold it for less than 1 minute and your set to go.
comes in small tubes ( good to the last drop) I get a case at a time and it runs
about $1.07 per tube dealer cost :D tax numbers are great..
:D
 
I have this problem that I make a sheath every month or so... ...and so my contact cement always dries up over 3-4 months. Is this normal? I try to keep it closed as much as humanly possible, but it still dries up.
Click to expand...

Get a can of the appropriate thinner and thin when necessary. Each brand uses it's own thinner and they don't always mix with other brands.

For those using Contact Cement here's a trick:
After your first quart can with a brush in it is empty save it! Fill it about half way with the appropriate thinner and store your top with the attached brush in it. Take the other top and cut the brush off and seal you new can full of cement. When you go to glue something take the top with brush out of the thinner can and cap it off with the lid from the glue can. Wipe the brush off on a paper towel to get rid of the excess thinner before dipping it in the glue. This will help prevent those nasty drips as your brush is no longer overloaded with glue. After a while the thinner will start getting thick with glue from the brush. Well about the same time your glue will need to be thinned. Dump the thinner into the glue to thin and put some fresh thinner into the thinner can.

Contact cement should be THIN to work best. It is better to apply two or three coats (let dry in between) rather than one big thick glorpy coat. Try it you will be pleasantly surprised.

I wet form after construction. Pendentive if you're having to keep it pinched while drying then the leather is too wet. At the right consistency good leather will mold and hold it's shape (belly is often too mushy for this). The heat will harden it which will help in retaining the shape. Here's an example of a heavily molded sheath. It's my EDC and has been in constant use for over 10 years.
edc-front-001.jpg


Overstitch wheels: I sew at 6 SPI for general work and 8-12 for fine work like around inlays. Some leather is known to have 60SPI!!! Don't ask me how I just know that's what it is.
BTW an overstitch wheel is not just for marking stitches. After stitching lightly tap your seam with a smooth face hammer and then DAMPEN (NOT wet just damp!). Now carefully take your OVERSTITCH wheel and roll it along the seam - it will even and burnish your stitches. That's why it's called an overstitch wheel.
 
My lunchtime mission to Tandy's was a success (except no large amounts of beeswax -- Neatsfoot Oil will be used.) I have the proper tools now, and will attempt another sheath tonight. I shall prevail!!! Pics to follow. :D
 
Beeswax in large quantities at a good price is available from beekeepers and/or candle making supply shops. One of the best on line sources is James Townsend and Sons http://www.jastown.com/lantern/bw-290.htm $7.00 a pound.

Be careful with the oil/wax dip - you can over oil the leather easily and wax is highly flammable - an old crock pot on medium works great for safely melting it in. I much prefer finishes like Fiebings Bag Kote or Resolene - simpler to apply and it they don't act as a dust/grit magnet like the wax finishes. If you prefer the oil/wax look buy some Mt Pitchblend (www.mtpitchblend.com) and add several coats heating with a hair dryer to "melt" it into the leather.
 
I think I'm going to have to bookmark this thread now - lots of good information here. Please keep the tips coming.
 
ANy of our resident leather experts do anyw ork with kangaroo leather? Friend who does leather work mentioned it, and was reading around. More than one site claimed that it was very strong for it's weight, due to uniform grain or something(or whatever closest thing to that is for leather). Seems like this could be an advantage for sheathes and holsters(esp. if you're looking for strength and light weight, like I would be for an inside the waist band holster). I see thatit is noticably more expensive than cow leather, but wondering if it might be worth it, leats for special projects.
 
I've worked with Kangaroo, but mostly for braiding and on a few belts.

Yes it is very strong for it's thickness (about twice the strength as cow). The problem is that it is normally only available in about a 3/4 oz weight which makes it quite thin and flexible. This makes it so it doesn't hold it's shape well.

Guess th best argument against using it is that I can't think off hand of any of the major custom holster/sheath makers that use it, including guys like Mitch Rosen who uses a lot of exotic leathers like elephant. (of course maybe there is somebody who does -anybody...?) Might try using a piece as a cover over 3/4 oz cow, but then you'd pretty much wind up back with the same thickness anyway.

Do know that the most comfortable/light weight pair of boots I ever owned was a pair of Browning Kangaroo uplanders. They just molded to your feet and were featherlight.
 
Originally posted by AKA Knife Knut
Would belly work as welt material?
Are bellies good for anything?
Click to expand...

Sling shot pad?

Not much comes to mind for the belly of the leather, it's too giving...when glued, the leather can come apart like a crousant...(spelling, never eat the stuff myself):)
G2
 
I wouldn't use one of the stitching awls, the resultant stitch is weak. It wears thread on thread. I prefer to stab the star holes with an awl, and use two needles. The basic trick is to poke one needle through, then the other, and then draw up the slack, if done this way you can keep the thread overlaps under control, or reverse a stich if it pierced a thread while going through. Use you awl in a consistant angle as you punch the holes. then experiment with whether pushing the right thread through on top, or the left gives the best stitch slant, and keep it consistant. It makes a huge difference to have a vise to hold the piece in as you work with both hands. I use one I made up out of scraps of wood. Wax the thread, and run the needle on each end doubling back through the thread just short of the end. Wax this stitch. This stops the needles from pulling too easily off the ends.

Barge cement is a kind of contact cement, and it is totaly waterproof. It's used to resole waders.

Edit: It's probably overkill to say the "stitch is weak". The two needle technique is better, but all sewing machines for instance use the kind of thread on thread stitch the stitching awl provides. If the model you have doesn't distress the thread coming through the needle, it's probably fine. On the other hand, is stitching this way up to the standards of some of the knives around here? Maybe not.
 
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