leather making 101

Chuck, This any better or worse than using a threading awl?
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I use a prong punch (1/16" - 4 prong)for making holes on lined belts. For heavier stuff like sheaths I use the process in the above mentioned tutorial. I've never used a stitching awl so can't say if it's better or worse. Gary Graleys' work looks great. I learned the traditional saddler's stitch long ago and have never strayed far except for the changes outlined in the tutorials. Once learned it really isn't that difficult and like anything the quality and speed comes with practice.

One "advantage" to the traditional saddler's stitch is that you actually have two separate threads making the stitch. This way if a stitch get's worn the seam won't unravel. In so far as sheaths are concerned I think the point is moot. BTW The stitching awl makes the same kind of stitch as a sewing machine.

If anyone's interested, I'll take some pics.
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Sure take some pics.
 
I never had a sticking awl or leather punch. Being too cheap to buy locally at a premium and too much in a hurry to wait for mail order I used a nail. I just took a finishing nail, 6 d I think, and put it in my drill press and sharpened it with a file and sand paper while the press was running. With the press still running (makes removal much easier) I open the holes for stiching. Not sure this is the best way, just what works for me.
Lynn
 
Think I might be cheaper Lynn, I use an old fork(which also doubles as my buffing wheel rake) to mark off holes, sorta like the chisel thing, bt without actually breaking through, then throw drill bit on the drill press(well, now it would be, in past was just handheld drill) and go at it.

Chuck, what is saddler's stitch?(if one of those tutorials explains it, jsut tell me, and I"ll go back and read them. only glanced at them so far). What I've done so far is two needles, one on each end of thread, and crossed them over through each hole(this was way explained in one of my knife books, though I don't remember which one). Gives solid line of thread on each side of sheath, but without looping like the stitching awl does.
 
Chuck, what is saddler's stitch?
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It's the stitch you are doing. The how to sew tutorial goes into more depth on a variation of it.

The thing I don't like about drilling is the relative lack of control as to where the hole comes out on the back and if it is off it's the hole is there - no adjustment possible. Using a diamond tip awl (if you stab the blade into beeswax every 3-4 stitches it really helps especially going through thick stuff)I can watch where the tip is emerging out the back and if it is off I can pull back and readjust to line it up properly.
 
you the man Chuck:D
Wickett & Craig is the only guy I use now...
I mark with a stitch marker drill the holes and
I sew with shoe maker’s thread with double needles.
:D
 
Thanks Dan but it is nothing more than years of studying/practicing the craft.

The how to sew tutorial goes into more depth on a variation of it.
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Actually the variation is not in the saddler's/harness makers's stitch itself (two needles on one thread) - but rather the method of making your holes. I have found that most newbies find it much easier to get a good straight stitch rather than using the strictly traditional stab one hole and sew method. Done right by a master the latter is amazing to watch. They never lay down their awl or needles and the stitches are perfectly even! I got fairly good at it but then all them various "itisis" set in. Probably the wages of a mis-spent youth.:rolleyes:

I say it in my tutorial but I will reitereate - get the book "The Art of Hand Stitching Leather" by Al Stohlman. It will open your eyes.

etp777 - notice you mentioned holsters - if you need any help/advice give me a shout - I do more holsters (mostly old west now but I've done all kinds of concealment rigs as well) than sheaths by far so maybe I can lend a hand.

PS Dan - I am going to do an expanded version of the Types of Leather bit above for a newsletter. When done do you want a link for your How To Site?
 
Thanks chuck, still trying to decide on that one. For IDPA, I have to buy an approved one. For concealed carry, new gun can't find holster for, but I also can't shoot it anywhere near as accurately as my old .38 yet. SO haven't decided if it's worth makign a holster till I get a thousand or so rounds through it and get it broken in and get myself used to shooting it.
 
Well the offer stands no matter when - especially to a fan of Mike and Mycroft.:D

A rational anarchist by inclination - oh if it were only so....:cool:
 
Here are most of the tools that I use to create a sheath, others to be sure but these get a lot of use, what's not shown is a nice heavy mall to pound with...;)

Left to right;
4 prong stitching fork
3 prong stitching fork
A quarter for size reference
Bone folder, used to shape and form the leather around the knife
Sew-n-Awl
Hand made awl that after I get my spacing and the leather is more than two layers thick, I go back around each hole and hammer that through, on my horizontal sheaths along the bottom there are 4 layers of leather to stitch through.
Regular awl, now this I use to open a hole up to thread the thread into the first hole, then on the next to the last hole, two holes back, I open those two up to allow the needle to go back a couple stitches to lock the thread in place, otherwise it just a wee bit tight and you can sometimes cut the thread with the needle.

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With some of the older sheaths, back when I did some fixed blade stuff, to make allowance for a thick guard on the knife, I'd make a rather high welt along the opening of the sheath, sometimes I've had up to 6 layers of leather to sew through! so in those cases...I did use a drill but I caution people against a drill bit, as a drilled hole looks like a drilled hole, not as clean to me as a punched through hole on the front side. So I don't normally drill any holes.

remember, old leathersmiths never die, they just leave a lasting impression! so go and make some! :)
G2
 
As always, just love this place. Always something new to learn. :)

Though foolishly, I just now checked my leather working book, and there's lock stitch and saddle stitch, right where index said stitching would be, and most of this other information is probably in there too.

Oh well, thanks for putting up with my questions anwayys. :)
 
Chuck yes let me know when.
I got to look and see if I got your others on there also..
My mind is going..:)
 
Dan-
The others are there. I will send you an email with the link as soon as I get it done.
 
pic #3


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forgot to mention that this one was a 3 piece sandwich construction. The knife and sharpener on one side, the pliers on the other.


Not winning any sheath designs, I know...but thought I'd post the pics for burchtree to show that even a beginner can do not-so-bad.


Oh, and didn't catch anything at the beach - but came back with a nice sunburn...:( :grumpy:
 
quick pouch sheath in a hurry...

This one took about an hour to make, and then I formed and dipped it along side the other one.

Like I said, these don't rank anywhere but at the bottom, but the way I see it, I can only get better from here...:D



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pic #2

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I had to spend a good amount of time pinching the "spot" behind the blade on this one to ensure a tight lock-up - around 10-15 minutes holding it while it dried, plus after being dipped.


For both of these sheaths, I ended up doing the same thing I do with kydex - sandwiching it between 2 boards covered in blue foam pads, then laying a heavy weight on top of it. With leather, it will pick up any dust, etc. so I have to use wax paper to keep it clean.


Again, the process was:

1. cutout pattern
2. groove edges for stitching line
3. mark stitch line
4. get a loose fit
5. stitch with awl
6. wetform to knife
7. let dry (used hairdrier)
8. dip in parafin/mink oil combination
9. clean up with a cloth



I always appreciate, of course, any tips and pointers on better ways to get from A to B.

Dan
 
Thanks for the pics -- I'll post some of one I did the other weekend, except it's not quite as nice. I made the mistake of stitching freehand, so the stitch "wanders" around a bit. :D

I also got some "cherry" dye, but it turned out really red, so I spent some time "spit shining" my sheath with some black shoe polish to give it a nice deep color.

My biggest problem was with the stitching because my stitching awl didn't come with instructions, so I don't quite know how to properly stitch.
 
Dan did you put a welt in so you don't cut your stitching?
I didn't see it list

interesting
I cut the pattern first leaving extra then wet mold, let dry,,
cut my welt leaving extra on the outside glue it in place
on the back side.
then do the rest...:) I'll have to put something together here soon.
I'm not saying it's wrong the way you do it
it's just the way I do it.:)
 
oops!

Yes, I put a welt in.

updated:

  • 1. cutout pattern leaving approx 3/8" extra
  • 2. groove edges for stitching line (deep on outside, light inside)
  • 3. glue in a skived welt right up to, but not in the stitch line - this serves a few purposes:
    - - makes sewing a lot easier
    - - cleaner line on the outside sew-up edge
    - - if I skive it right, it doesn't show up as a bump on the sheath
    - - I only have to put the welt where the blade is - see #2
    - - protects the stitch better - (prob. just my arrogant opinion)
  • 4. mark stitch line
  • 5. get a loose fit
  • 6. glue up
  • 7. stitch with awl
  • 8. wetform to knife
  • 9. let dry (used hairdrier)
  • 10. (optional: dye the leather)
  • 11. dip in parafin/mink oil combination
  • 12. clean up with a soft cloth - heavy handed buffing


The reason I don't wetform twice is that it extends my drying time significantly, and being a hobbyist - I have to fit as much in at one time as possible. If it's left half-finished, sometimes that's how it stays. :rolleyes:

If I've done my job right cutting and grooving (measure twice ;) ) then I can trust the fit well enough to skip wetforming it before stitching.

And No...wetforming with Acetone is not a solution for me. :barf:

Dan
 
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