Let's get the next build rolling

[Rupestris]

Dang John where did you find such a big pencil?

Dear Santa Claus...

 

[Mack]

Dang John where did you find such a big pencil?

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

 

[Pinemoon]

View attachment 1231891

Lookin' good

 

[T.Knotts]

Awesome. Those black liners go really well with that handle material.

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

Lookin' good

Thanks Don

Awesome. Those black liners go really well with that handle material.

This red palm is gonna finish up nice. I can't get a picture to do it justice. I'm going the black liner brings out the tapered tang.

 

[Mack]

View attachment 1231890

KNICE!!! I hope it comes with a tip-up sheath.

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

 

[mitch4ging]

View attachment 1232033

Well.....damn!
Now I just hav'ta get another Redmedows with the new, too coo' for schoo' makers mark!!

Looks good, John!

 

[Scott Hanson]

View attachment 1232033

Your new makers marks really good John, also you did a really good job on the end grain of that red palm near the ricasso area. Did you use true oil on it?

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

Your new makers marks really good John, also you did a really good job on the end grain of that red palm near the ricasso area. Did you use true oil on it?

Thanks Scott, the finish is CA. I've never had luck with Tru oil, pretty sure it's operator error!

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

As a side note: I've got three Head knives ready for HT and am sketching up what looks to be a promising Camp knife (7" ish blade).

 

[Scott Hanson]

Thanks Scott, the finish is CA. I've never had luck with Tru oil, pretty sure it's operator error!

I've only had good luck with tung oil finishes in the winter when the humidity is low, I wouldn't mind trying the Tru-oil though. I was looking at some U-tube videos and it looks like it might be a pretty time consuming endeavor.

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

I've only had good luck with tung oil finishes in the winter when the humidity is low, I wouldn't mind trying the Tru-oil though. I was looking at some U-tube videos and it looks like it might be a pretty time consuming endeavor.

I've seen some really nice tru oil finishes but I could never get an even coat. I always ened up sanding through a spot and it turned into a never ending process.

 

[Scott Hanson]

I've seen some really nice tru oil finishes but I could never get an even coat. I always ened up sanding through a spot and it turned into a never ending process.

Been there, done that.lol

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

Been there, done that.lol

Ha, glad I'm not the only one!

 

[Rupestris]

View attachment 1232033

Fantastic.

The font reminds me of a western movie poster. A little cleaner than this one but it's the one that came to mind.

 

[SpyderPhreak]

Looks really good John! This knife reminds me of something, but I can't quite put a finger on it.

I've had good luck with Tru-Oil, but it takes a LOT of time (one coat a day at most, and usually 8-10 coats...), and it's a tedious process! I've refinished a couple gun stocks with it, and used it on a couple knife handles as well. Light coats are key, and sanding with light grit and steel wool between coats is absolutely necessary! I generally apply it with my bare fingers, then very gently spread it out (feather it) with a rag. Have to be sure it's 100% dry before sanding every time too, or you'll ruin all your hard work.

Gives an awesome finish when done right, but it's definitely a pain in the butt to get it just right. I don't think it would be something a knifemaker would want to use too often.

 

[Redmeadow Knives]

Looks really good John! This knife reminds me of something, but I can't quite put a finger on it.

I've had good luck with Tru-Oil, but it takes a LOT of time (one coat a day at most, and usually 8-10 coats...), and it's a tedious process! I've refinished a couple gun stocks with it, and used it on a couple knife handles as well. Light coats are key, and sanding with light grit and steel wool between coats is absolutely necessary! I generally apply it with my bare fingers, then very gently spread it out (feather it) with a rag. Have to be sure it's 100% dry before sanding every time too, or you'll ruin all your hard work.

Gives an awesome finish when done right, but it's definitely a pain in the butt to get it just right. I don't think it would be something a knifemaker would want to use too often.

Good advice Jared, maybe I'll revisit it and work it slower. I've done a couple of Danish oil finishes that turned out great but took three weeks of one drop rubbed in twice a day!. Hmm, I still have one knife around here somewheres, mesquite and O1, before I had a mark.