Lets see opinels - Pic Thread

Generally the grinding is done with the assumption you'll install a new pin afterwards (maybe a re-purposed nail)and re-peen it. I am sure you could rig up some removable screw-type pivot in its place, though it might be harder to get the collar back on. Not to mention the purists would be after you with pitchforks and torches ;) If you happen to wander into the Carl camp and see fit to do away with the locking ring altogether then I don't see why a true take-down pivot setup couldn't be possible (flathead or even a knurled thumbscrew :eek:) but personally I have never felt compelled to disassemble one of these at all, and I suspect it would end up being more trouble than it's worth (just my opinion.)

For example, I had a tension issue with my #8 that had gotten some moisture in the pivot (I had not learned the petroleum pre-treatment trick yet.) With the logic that I could evaporate the liquid that the wood had absorbed, I briefly 'toasted' the pivot area over a lighter (4-5 inches over an open flame.) I also stuck some polishing compound into the pivot and worked it open a few dozen times. It's very smooth now overall. As for your worries about an even patina, if it's for functional consideration then I wouldn't worry too much about making sure you get all the nooks and crannies of steel near the pivot unless this is your diving knife, in which case we need to have a talk :D
 
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Bando_red said:
the pin is the only fundamental flaw I can see in the design because it can't be easily removed without tools.
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I don't see this as a flaw at all. I reckon .0403% of Opinel customers want a knife that can come apart.

-- Mark
 
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I noticed you want to take the blade out to force a patina. You can open the blade half way and dip it into vinegar right up to the area of the tang that is a little thicker. The part that is actually pivoting against the wood. If you take it apart and put a patina on that area you will just watch it polish right off and the action will be less smooth.

Kevin
 
Got a couple new Opinels in the mail today. A No. 7 Inox for my boss, two No. 10 Carbons for a friend, and a No. 12 for myself. Wow-ee, this thing is huuuuuuge! Pics to come. :D
 
Had to see what the fuss is about so ordered a couple of #6s (smallest size that locks). Sanded off the varnish, carved Opie's face on the end, blue wonder patina, and after a few minutes on the wicked edge / strop it's wicked sharp. Pretty cool little knife for the money. :thumbup:

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Thats pretty cool John, and Kevin, ordered that #8 Ebony, I do blame you ;) but, that's a good thing...

Thinking about trying some checkering on one side of the handle, the outside from your palm, where your fingers would grip, while the inside would be smooth, anyone done much checkering on these types of folders?
G2
 
That is really cool, John.

Gary,

I believe you will love it! If not just blame me :D

I did some checkering on this walnut op8 that my friend Sam sent me (finger side only). I had been thinking of doing more, better and more refined now that I have a feel for it. The big difference is I made flats to do the checkering. On the contours I bet it would be a great challenge? Good luck!



Kevin
 
Oh yah !!! That's nice work
G2
 
Here are some of my modded Opi's.
Nothing fancy, just modified to make them more functional to me.
The two sheepfoot are a nr 6(top) and a nr 4(bottom)
The big machete at the bottom is a number 9 which I'm currently working on to make it in a number 6 size sheepfoot.

 
Those all look nice spydutch.

I thought some of you modders may appreciate my finished ebony "1890" as I like to call it :)

This knife came with a mirror polished stainless blade which got REALLY sharp and has PERFECT grinds, but I just did not want to deal with the glare at work all day and the way they mirror polished it would have been hard to take to a satin finish. The buffer lifted out the nail nick and logo so it would have been more metal removal than it was worth.

So, I tried my first blade swap on an opinel. The ebony is finished by hand with crocus cloth and then buffed with Tripoli wood compound. I made the clip into a drop point and filed away the blade "kick" out to an angle for Three reasons. One to give more room for my index finger, two for making it easier to sharpen and three to accommodate my blade stop mod. After peening I used a swiss pattern knife style file to work the pin. I filed the back square and collar slightly to even it up and open to where I wanted. Finally I gave the collar a hand finished crocus cloth treatment which was tricky. No buffing, just by hand.

Here is the end result in hand:



Next is to show how I make my blade stop. I use stag and I make one angle to match the angle I grind into the blade

(this angle)



If you look in you can see the front angle that matches. Then you can see the flat angle that the tang actually sits on. You can see two faint black lines where it sits:



On this ebony knife I was much more precise and I have the blade raised only 1mm above the wood in the handle.

This will be going to work with me and seeing lots of use. I hope it picks up lots of character.

Thanks,

Kevin
 
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A thoroughly enjoyable thread, some great examples and insightful thoughts.

I've very tempted by a ringless Ebony Opi now:)

A few of mine on the pile....









Sam
 
After reading this thread this morning I put my No. 8 carbon in my pocket. I love it as a picnic/camp knife, but I find it a little big for EDC. So...through the power of the internet I tracked down a local general store in my neighborhood that happens to carry Opinels. After a quick trip, I came home with a stainless No. 6 in walnut that fits in my pocket oh so sweet. I have a feeling it will be there for awhile. Thanks for the motivation!

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Nice find there with the #6, myself I guess I'm sticking to the stainless models, impressed with how sharp they get and figure that they might keep that edge better than the carbon ones would? As other folders that have 1095, you slice some food up with it and that keen edge is not so keen pretty quickly, of course I am careful to not cut on any glass plate, just food stuff. Where the stainless seems to have a slight edge over that, pun intended ;)
G2
 
Gary W. Graley said:
Nice find there with the #6, myself I guess I'm sticking to the stainless models, impressed with how sharp they get and figure that they might keep that edge better than the carbon ones would? As other folders that have 1095, you slice some food up with it and that keen edge is not so keen pretty quickly, of course I am careful to not cut on any glass plate, just food stuff. Where the stainless seems to have a slight edge over that, pun intended ;)
G2
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I've become a convert to the Inox that Opinel uses. In day to day use, I notice a little difference in edge holding for the stainless, but on some food use, like tomato's and citrus that is acidic, the stainless holds up better. I really believe that Opinel is taking the Sandvick 12c27 up a bit higher on the RC.

Plus you can get the nicer woods with the stainless without having to swap blades. :D

Carl.
 
Sam,

I think you will be surprised how much nicer they handle without the ring. :)

Carl,

I used the same file on both the stainless and carbon and the carbon cut much easier. Sharpening I found the stainless took a sharp edge easier so idk.

Is the carbon 1095 or 1084?

I thought the CV90 was 1084 but I'm so unsure.
Kevin
 
the 1095 I made mention of were not Opinel type knives, some other American made folders. The Opinel stainless certainly takes a great edge, plus being so thin doesn't hurt, unless you're chopping probably.
G2
 
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