Lets see some Hinderer action

tony281sc2 said:
Edit to ask… does it still deploy well on the washers, or does it sometimes need a little “wrist” to get it open?
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The Gen5s I have used (the more common Wharncliffes and now this SF) deploy hard and fast.

The only Hinderers I've used that need a little "wrist" are older Gen4s.

I'll keep my eye open for a 24 SF ....
 
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Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
Fresh Off My Workbench :

I just reprofiled a customer's Hinderer in S45VN to 15 degrees per side. I did the reprofiling work and also finished the apex on my Tormek T8 with the SG-250 grindstone, which leaves 220 grit finish. Deburring was done on the same wheel by setting the edge angle 1 degree higher and my assistant rotates the wheel by hand slowly as I take very quick and light passes flipping sides after each pass. A handful of passes on each side and you are left with an edge which is shaving sharp and will pop hairs off your arms yet also retains excellent slicing aggression and edge retention.



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Sorry if I ask, or if I’m naive, but that grind looks a little wonky from the pictures?
 
DocJekl said:
I may have NOT paid attention to the increased thickness at the harpoon spanto tip when I took one of my user XM-18 to a sharpening stone, and I laid it back a little too far. But the blade was really chipped up from hard use over the past year, and I should have tried for 20 degrees instead of 15.

Thankfully I stopped to check things out before it got too bad! I can get someone I know to fix the edge, but the working finish near the tip is toast.

Hypothetically speaking, how much do you think Hinderer would charge me to fix this up, edge and finish both?

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I can tell you pretty confidently that you definitely dropped well below 15 DPS on that one because I just did one recently for a customer at that edge geometry and never even came close to scratching the primary grind (which is probably no more than 10 DPS primary grind at the tanto tip itself). You'll need some kind of an acid solution to darken the scratch pattern you put on the knife but it's not entirely necessary as that's a cosmetic thing only. I would say if you wanted to try and even out the edge bevel the thing to do would be to lower the edge angle at the straight portion of the edge to make an similar with as the tip portion.

badmatt said:
Possibly the widening of the bevel at the transition at the belly of the spanto because of the thick geometry
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That was my thought but want to make sure I'm not missing something. At that transition what is happening is the thickness behind the edge is dramatically thicker than on either side of the transition so you get a widening effect there. You won't notice as much with factory edge bevel being so much more obtuse and there's more margin for hiding this.

I know many people here consider a really high quality sharpening job to be one where it has a beautiful polish and perfect symmetry/edge width along the entire edge bevel but that actually matters far less than what is going on at the very apex and whether or not you've got appropriate geometry for what you intend to cut. That knife I did for a customer was a good example of this. The comment that it looks 'wonky' is OK with me, I was upfront with the customer that my sole focus on this was performance for the price we agreed upon = little attention given to aesthetics other than trying to get an even bevel within reason. You can even see two distinct bevels, the apex bevel scratches run at a bit of a different direction from the main edge bevel. This is because I raised the edge angle by one degree in order to grind only the apex in a way that cuts the apex cleanly without forming additional burr at the same time.

The apex on this knife has it going on in all the right places where it counts though. This is 15 degrees per side edge geometry finished off a 220 grit Tormek wheel exclusively (no strops, no deburring block, no other stones, etc) and the result is that it has both high push cutting sharpness (pops arm hairs) and high slicing aggression and edge retention. This is a difficult thing to pull off and basically requires that you finish on a very coarse stone... which is going to leave heavy scratches which are obvious and possibly look bad. You also have to know how to remove the burr cleanly to get to undamaged steel and refine that apex with a light touch. Lower edge angle than factory equals wide bevel in all cases (without a regrind)

The customer was VERY happy with the result here and told me that he'd be sending me future work. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/father-and-son-sharpening.1918713/

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As an interesting comparison here's a knife that I received a while back that looked very nice because of the mirror polish on the lower portion of the convex bevel but had a very unfortunate reality at the apex. There was a VERY prominent burr at the actual apex (likely from buffing). That combined with the high polish pretty much means this is not going to perform well for push cutting or slicing work. If you had to ask most people which they'd prefer, I would suggest the likely answer would be this example based on looks alone. Actually having a chance to use them would be a very different story and looks can be deceiving.

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Father & Son Traditional Sharpening said:
I can tell you pretty confidently that you definitely dropped well below 15 DPS on that one because I just did one recently for a customer at that edge geometry and never even came close to scratching the primary grind (which is probably no more than 10 DPS primary grind at the tanto tip itself). You'll need some kind of an acid solution to darken the scratch pattern you put on the knife but it's not entirely necessary as that's a cosmetic thing only. I would say if you wanted to try and even out the edge bevel the thing to do would be to lower the edge angle at the straight portion of the edge to make an similar with as the tip portion.



That was my thought but want to make sure I'm not missing something. At that transition what is happening is the thickness behind the edge is dramatically thicker than on either side of the transition so you get a widening effect there. You won't notice as much with factory edge bevel being so much more obtuse and there's more margin for hiding this.

I know many people here consider a really high quality sharpening job to be one where it has a beautiful polish and perfect symmetry/edge width along the entire edge bevel but that actually matters far less than what is going on at the very apex and whether or not you've got appropriate geometry for what you intend to cut. That knife I did for a customer was a good example of this. The comment that it looks 'wonky' is OK with me, I was upfront with the customer that my sole focus on this was performance for the price we agreed upon = little attention given to aesthetics other than trying to get an even bevel within reason. You can even see two distinct bevels, the apex bevel scratches run at a bit of a different direction from the main edge bevel. This is because I raised the edge angle by one degree in order to grind only the apex in a way that cuts the apex cleanly without forming additional burr at the same time.

The apex on this knife has it going on in all the right places where it counts though. This is 15 degrees per side edge geometry finished off a 220 grit Tormek wheel exclusively (no strops, no deburring block, no other stones, etc) and the result is that it has both high push cutting sharpness (pops arm hairs) and high slicing aggression and edge retention. This is a difficult thing to pull off and basically requires that you finish on a very coarse stone... which is going to leave heavy scratches which are obvious and possibly look bad. You also have to know how to remove the burr cleanly to get to undamaged steel and refine that apex with a light touch. Lower edge angle than factory equals wide bevel in all cases (without a regrind)

The customer was VERY happy with the result here and told me that he'd be sending me future work. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/father-and-son-sharpening.1918713/

View attachment 2127805

As an interesting comparison here's a knife that I received a while back that looked very nice because of the mirror polish on the lower portion of the convex bevel but had a very unfortunate reality at the apex. There was a VERY prominent burr at the actual apex (likely from buffing). That combined with the high polish pretty much means this is not going to perform well for push cutting or slicing work. If you had to ask most people which they'd prefer, I would suggest the likely answer would be this example based on looks alone. Actually having a chance to use them would be a very different story and looks can be deceiving.

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Just as a side note, I don’t think it looks “wonky”, like you said, the grinds are always a bit different near the tip on a ZT or Hinderer spanto, so to me this looks normal ( and damn good) for a resharpened knife!

The second knife has a huge edge on it, which looks ok, but in my experience usually doing this kills the performance of the knife at the tip (rounds it off), so actually prefer the top. (On my wicked edge 120,) It’s not hard for me to get the blade sharp most of the way, but the tip is where it gets tricky I think. I hate rounding off the tips of knives…my KO worksharp can put a nice thick edge on a knife, but it will round the tip VERY quickly also….
 
Oh Big Sexy, where have you been all my life? 😍
The battle black Ranch Bowie’s are around right now also! Loving my first Hinderer fixed blade, this thing is a beast, more so than I thought. The sheath is incredible too, my room is starting to smell like leather lol
Overall exceptional build quality, very sharp and even consistent edge, great new-to-me steel….I feel like this is the most knife I ever bought for the money
ETA: I almost bought a ZT 0006, but so glad I got this instead, the sheath really is something, I’ll get a picture tomorrow if I can remember….
I’m not a fan of the plastic kydex stuff that is popular, this is soooo much nicer IMO
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Glenn Goodlett said:
New from the exchange and I immediately added a Ti scale, Lynch deep carry clip, and Skiff bearings.
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Looking awesome! How’re you liking that Lynch clip? I have them on all my Spydercos and just recently found out they launched a variant for Hinderer. I haven’t pulled the trigger yet but I’m close. If my 24 can ride lower in my pocket, that would be ideal!
 
Wow nice X, I didn’t know they even made scales for it yet! As far as the clips go, I know MXG makes (or made) deep carry clips for Hinderers and the 0393 ZT, you just have to place it over a filler tab. I had a blue one on my 0393, and TBH, I thought it looked better than the Lynch clips
 
I love the Lynch clips. They are milled to fit in the pocket of the scale so they will never wiggle back and forth scratching the scale like the MXG clip. I had all MXG clips then switched to Lynch. Lynch just works better in my opinion. I hate to think about it but, I'm probably into Casey Lynch for a grand in clips.

Also, the Ti scale is almost a year old as it came from the first release.
 
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