Hi Danny. I don't know about a company that does that. I've never heard of them. A band saw can cut out the titanium in minutes using a bi metal blade.
What you would do first is take off the head of the pivot pin and the lock bar pin and punch them out. Once you have both the blade and lock bar out and set aside you use a small pair of pliers (usually, sometimes you can just grab it by hand) and take out the spring. Now whats left is all FRN Burgundy scales/body of the folder.
Then I take the FRN body to the band saw and cut one scale right off. Not down the middle mind you. Stay to one side so you slice it right off leaving the spring holder still attatched to the other side's scale. Now what you have is the flat original scale to use as your template for marking your holes in the titanium. Take the other scale that still has the back spacer/spring holder on it and cut the flat of it just like you did the first one and take off the back spacer/spring holder from that scale also so you have now in front of you the three separate pieces: two scales, and the middle spacer bar/spring holder.
Copy the back spacer/spring holder in titanium as well as the liners and use the original handles holes to mark the spots to drill for the lock bar and pivot. What I did was clamp the two liners and one handle scale together after using two sided sticky tape to hold them so they didn't move. Drill all the holes at one time using the original scale as a marker. Use the original pivot and lock bar pin size to determine the drill size you need.
Using my digital caliper I took measurements of the blade with two phosphorus bronze washers sitting on it. I then took my titanium and made two pieces (you can see them in the spine shot of the body in my first post) of titanium together to make up my spacer/bar spring holder. These two pieces when together, a thick one and a thin one are exactly the right thickness as the blade and the two phosphorus bronze washers. Then all that needed to be done was pinning the two pieces I cut out to create my spacer bar/spring holder together to make them as one. No big deal at all for me. Why didn't I use just one piece? In a word. Impatience. I wanted to keep moving and used what I had rather than order what I needed and wait. I used some small titanium pins. You can use brass if you have access to a Hobby Lobby or other craft shop. If not some old thicker gauge wire will work. It only needs to hold together long enough to get mounted into the folder body. Once it is pinned there as well it isn't going anywhere. If you have one piece that is the right thickness it will be fine.
If you did your homework right you can reuse the original pivot pin and the original lock bar pin and simply re-peen the heads to make them fit through your new liners. Cover them over with the new scales so they are hidden undeneath.
I used 2-56 screws. Drill your holes for these with a #51 drill bit and thread them with the 2-56 taper tap and wrench. Use whatever style screw you like and mount the scales on the body. I'd recommend sticking with stainless. You can save a lot of money. I went with an all titanium construction on my Salt. Everything is ti, every screw, every component, every pin, and even the pivot pin is a custom made threaded titanium pivot I made. I felt it had to be that way to still be 'salt water proof' in sticking with the original H1 design. I have in just parts over $100 in that knife. Then there is the original purchase price, and labor if you can add that in for you own knife. Now I have the hand checkering $72 bill to add to that. Its a $350 knife now. Not that anyone would pay that for it but you get my drift.
No not Esmerelda Catamount. Sherry Abraham is who is doing my scales with some hand checkering. I've seen her work and was quite impressed. I have not seen Esmerelda but let me know if you have a link.
Thanks.
STR