Let's see your Shadetree

before i scrolled all the way down, i was going to make the recommendation to " hit it w/ Howards"...it'll look all purty again( if brand new & the un-used look is what you are going for):)
 
pertinux said:
Shadetree Navy Blue:

Shadetree CC's "Navy Blue" ranges from a true navy through more of a turquoise, depending in part on how much green is within the material.


Licked (waves at traumkommode traumkommode :D):
IMG_5781%201.jpg~original


~ P.
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I do love Shadetree.

Give that lil' puppy an extra lick for me. I got on an airplane and flew to a place called "New Orleans" to hear stuff called "music" at an event called "Jazzfest", and a government agency called "TSA" doesn't care for passengers who bring knives on the planes. So I don't have any to lick right now.

ALSO - I think that you might want to post the "tongue patina" technique in the Tinkering forum. I'll bet a lot of guys would prefer that method to a vinegar dip.
 
RobbieB said:
Not sure if this answers your question, but I believe "Shadetree" refers to a brand. Shadetree Custom Composites is the name of the company.
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I guess I should have been more specific. What I meant was -- Are all burlap materials that are used on a Fiddleback from Shadetree Custom Composites?
I picked up a stunning Scandiman in A2 with Emerald Burlap and was curious.
 
LaRueOBR556 said:
I guess I should have been more specific. What I meant was -- Are all burlap materials that are used on a Fiddleback from Shadetree Custom Composites?
I picked up a stunning Scandiman in A2 with Emerald Burlap and was curious.
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we only use Shadetree burlap
 
Phillip, any reason why we don't see many fiddlebacks in paper micarta or G10? Both are fantastic scale materials IMO
 
Scotcha said:
Phillip, any reason why we don't see many fiddlebacks in paper micarta or G10? Both are fantastic scale materials IMO
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The antique bone is paper.
The G10 is much heavier than the other materials used. Sales are not too swift on it either
 
Not sure how others feel but texture is a factor for me. Glass smooth G10 doesn't really appeal. A sandblasted texture, that's pretty sweet.
 
VANCE said:
The G10 is much heavier than the other materials used. Sales are not too swift on it either
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That's because G10 shaped into Fiddleback contours renders the knives all Bark-River tacky (most especially when the G10 is layered), doing no justice to the form, wrecking sight lines and leaving only a vestige of visual appeal.

True-- not many like G10 on a Fiddleback.

~ P.
 
Maroon paper is nice but don't see that often.

Well, I like G10 (not tacky layered but solid colours) but I might be in the minority so makes sense from a selling point of view.
 
Shadetree Custom Composites is the company most people think of when they talk about burlap handles. They have made a wide variety burlap colors and materials over the years. I know because I have owned many of them.

A couple of years ago, Fiddleback used some black and burgundy burlap on about a dozen or so knives. I don’t think this is one of Shadetree’s products for several reasons. First is that Ken described it as a Cherokee burlap in the FF ad description. Second is that I never saw this color combo advertised on Shadetree’s website. Third is that this burlap displays different material and wear characteristics than I have come to associate with the Shadetree burlaps. By that I mean the epoxy base is more dense and waterproof without any voids. Also, the burlap has less exposed fibers so this knife doesn’t suffer the dried-out/bleached-out areas when the handle is carried in a leather sheath that sucks the moisture out of exposed burlap fibers where it contacts the leather.

This black & burgundy burlap has also proven to be the most dimensionally stable burlap of any I have owned, meaning no thickness shrink around the bullseye tube and/or mosaic pins. The only small downside to this burlap is that it is slightly less grippy feeling than the typical Shadetree burlap because of the denser epoxy/burlap composition.

As an admitted burlap geek, I would appreciate hearing any other first hand knowledge of the source and history of this particular burlap.

Thanks,

Phil

 
Comprehensivist said:
By that I mean the epoxy base is more dense and waterproof without any voids. Also, the burlap has less exposed fibers so this knife doesn’t suffer the dried-out/bleached-out areas when the handle is carried in a leather sheath that sucks the moisture out of exposed burlap fibers where it contacts the leather.
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Phil, while I like the look of Shadetree burlap it's the drawbacks that you have mentioned that keeps me from purchasing any Fiddlebacks with Shadetree scales.
 
^That is a nice Scandiman LaRueOBR556. Emerald burlap with black pins is my favorite color combo. The spalting on your knife is great too. :thumbsup:

Phil
 
Faded burlap (canvas micarta and wood for that matter) is a simple oil and buff during routine maintenance.

The small pinholes remaining in some of the finished product is probably more of what you are referring to. I agree somewhat. I have received new knives that made me wonder if the material could either be produced better or if finishing of the material can be done better to remove/fill the pits, air pockets or whatever they are.

Having been through and still own several handfuls of burlap handled knives, the majority of the burlap I have received has been tolerable for me in my uses and desired handle aesthetics. I've seen newly finished wood handles with canyon like checking that would swallow the typical void or three on a burlap slab.

Life here on a Northeastern coastal boundary, the burlap knives have worked well for me with no movement issues. Only a tactile texture change (the exposed fibers to the elements and regular oiling) that, IMO, is for the better and improves the grippy feel.
 
I've never had fading in any of my wood handled fiddlebacks. Maybe an exception but have not experienced this issue.

While the above mentioned properties of burlap are definitely good for grip for me they detract from the overall aesthetics.

For me my fiddlebacks are highly functional works of art and I try and keep them in pristine condition. They will never see batoning or such hard use unless I am forced to do so in a survival situation. I might be guilty of being a "collector" :D
 
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