Lets talk GEC!

So I do buy a lot of GEC's. Nothing they've made is really what I would call "cutlery history". They're okay in my book to carry and use as I see fit, and they make such interesting and beautiful patterns!!!! I don't buy as many GEC's as I used to though. The lack of stainless options is the biggest sticking point, and the mechanical look of the majority of their jigging is starting to leave me luke warm. I will also admit that the more recent issues with lack of walk and talk also have me looking elsewhere. I feel like I'm almost done with GEC for now, as long as they keep heading in this same direction. But we'll see.

I agree with you on the jigging. For as secretive as GEC is regarding their process, they don't consistently produce desirable jigging. There are notable exceptions of course but when it comes to preferences, the jigging that a few of my Case knives have is aesthetically superior to most of what GEC puts out.

On the topic of walk-n-talk, how many of the more recent runs of GEC have you acquired, Buzz? I think you'd be pretty happy with how the 93s turned out in that regard. That said, I judge the action of GEC's knives on the consistency found on any given run. Some fall flat, others are just superb. In recent memory, the 78s and the 93s have been the absolute best, in my opinion. I've only found one of the recent runs to be unreasonable in terms of its difficulty and that would be the 46s. I have strong fingers and stout nails but even I found that knife to be unreasonably difficult. On the lighter side, the 43s, 82s, and 97s all come to mind in terms of having lighter actions than I care for.

Hard for me to say if it is a trend of sorts. I think it is simply how they want a specific run to be represented, perhaps they are seeing what appeals to the broader masses. I'd say they nailed it with the 93s.
 
I agree with you on the jigging. For as secretive as GEC is regarding their process, they don't consistently produce desirable jigging. There are notable exceptions of course but when it comes to preferences, the jigging that a few of my Case knives have is aesthetically superior to most of what GEC puts out.

I think that GEC has the superior dying method, but Case's jigging is definitely far better in most circumstances. I can fix a light dye job in many circumstances, but you can't fix boring jigging.

On the topic of walk-n-talk, how many of the more recent runs of GEC have you acquired, Buzz? I think you'd be pretty happy with how the 93s turned out in that regard. That said, I judge the action of GEC's knives on the consistency found on any given run. Some fall flat, others are just superb. In recent memory, the 78s and the 93s have been the absolute best, in my opinion. I've only found one of the recent runs to be unreasonable in terms of its difficulty and that would be the 46s. I have strong fingers and stout nails but even I found that knife to be unreasonably difficult. On the lighter side, the 43s, 82s, and 97s all come to mind in terms of having lighter actions than I care for.

Hard for me to say if it is a trend of sorts. I think it is simply how they want a specific run to be represented, perhaps they are seeing what appeals to the broader masses. I'd say they nailed it with the 93s.

I did get a #93 lambfoot, and it is indeed quick excellent in terms of walk and talk. A great knife all around.

For weak walk and talk, don't forget the Calf Roper and Bull Moose. Even many of the secondary blades on the last #77 run were a bit too weak. And it sounds like the #29's may have the same issue. I don't need a wicked hard pull by any means of the imagination, but I'm no longer willing to pay over a $100.00 for a knife with a blade pull of less than 5. That's just sloppy manufacturing at that price point.
 
For weak walk and talk, don't forget the Calf Roper and Bull Moose. Even many of the secondary blades on the last #77 run were a bit too weak. And it sounds like the #29's may have the same issue. I don't need a wicked hard pull by any means of the imagination, but I'm no longer willing to pay over a $100.00 for a knife with a blade pull of less than 5. That's just sloppy manufacturing at that price point.
I see no reason to struggle opening or closing a pocket knife. If “0” was barely staying closed, and “10” was smacking it with a board to make it move, then 5 would be as high as I would want and a 3 or 4 much better.

For me, the secondary blades on the calf roper are just too weak, maybe a one or one and a half. The main blade on my buffalo jack is probably a six in my world and that is almost too much. I keep it and I carry it because I love the pattern and believe it is one of GEC‘s best built folders.

All in all, my Stockyard Whittler is right where I want the blades to be.
 
I think that GEC has the superior dying method, but Case's jigging is definitely far better in most circumstances. I can fix a light dye job in many circumstances, but you can't fix boring jigging.

I couldn't agree more. I've long been turned off by Case's garish and uneven dyeing. There are always exceptions of course but sometimes you have to look pretty hard.

I've had my own issues with GEC's dyeing, they aren't infallible in that regard. I've come to expect variances in the dyeing of camel bone due to its nature but I shouldn't expect the same with cattle. I've expressed my disappointment before regarding an 85 that I got from the most recent run. For what was supposed to be Blood Red, it was a washed out strawberry color with lots of white and pink showing at the shoulders and edges. I am handy enough and can make alterations but there is something that turns me off to a knife when it doesn't meet my expectations of quality. I tend to move those knives along.

I did get a #93 lambfoot, and it is indeed quick excellent in terms of walk and talk. A great knife all around.

For weak walk and talk, don't forget the Calf Roper and Bull Moose. Even many of the secondary blades on the last #77 run were a bit too weak. And it sounds like the #29's may have the same issue. I don't need a wicked hard pull by any means of the imagination, but I'm no longer willing to pay over a $100.00 for a knife with a blade pull of less than 5. That's just sloppy manufacturing at that price point.

I did forget about those two. I never experienced the Bull Moose as it came in a configuration that doesn't appeal to me but I have had a couple of the Calf Ropers and though the main blade is satisfactory, the secondaries are quite lazy. I am giving myself a bit of a break right now in terms of purchasing new knives so I do not have a 29 incoming anytime soon. But I think I'd want the punch to at least be somewhat stout in terms of its action. It's a pity if it isn't.
 
I’d like to see a 66 with action in the 4-5 range on all blades but with a small punch or Wharncliffe rather than the Spey. Or just a run of current 66s without those weak secondaries.
 
For weak walk and talk, don't forget the Calf Roper and Bull Moose. Even many of the secondary blades on the last #77 run were a bit too weak. And it sounds like the #29's may have the same issue. I don't need a wicked hard pull by any means of the imagination, but I'm no longer willing to pay over a $100.00 for a knife with a blade pull of less than 5. That's just sloppy manufacturing at that price point.
I was originally disappointed by the pull and walk on the main of my #29 but after oiling and working it quite a bit it's settled into the 4-5 range. Let's call it 4.5.

I think the lighter pull is necessary for the main. There isn't much to grab ahold of- the nail nick is barely over the spine of the sheepsfoot secondary. Any firmer of a pull and you're losing thumbnail every time. In my opinion, it's totally necessary and could be seen as an exhibition of even greater workmanship.

Not much room to get a nail in there...
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The secondaries are both nice and snappy...I'd say a 6 and 7 for the sheep and punch, respectively.
 
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I was originally disappointed by the pull and walk on the main of my #29 but after oiling and working it quite a bit it's settled into the 4-5 range. Let's call it 4.5.

I think the lighter pull is necessary for the main. There isn't much to grab ahold of- the nail nick is barely over the spine of the sheepsfoot secondary. Any firmer of a pull and you're losing thumbnail every time. In my opinion, it's totally necessary and could be seen as an exhibition of even greater workmanship.

Not much room to get a nail in there...
jzAOpxn.jpg


The secondaries are both nice and snappy...I'd say a 6 and 7 for the sheep and punch, respectively.

Glad it settled in for you.

Its the lightest pull of any of my GECs, but not too light, I actually kinda like it. In fact enough that I'm still pondering a second one. They are perfect for this size knife imo.

I sent my 66 back because I had to physically push the secondaries closed and they were so light they barely locked. Point is I can recognize too light, and I still like my 29 a lot.
 
Glad it settled in for you.

Its the lightest pull of any of my GECs, but not too light, I actually kinda like it. In fact enough that I'm still pondering a second one. They are perfect for this size knife imo.

I sent my 66 back because I had to physically push the secondaries closed and they were so light they barely locked. Point is I can recognize too light, and I still like my 29 a lot.
As I have said before, the 29 blade pulls are just fine for me but, even though I think the 66 Calf Roper is one of my favorite patterns I just can’t deal with the super light secondaries actions.

I’m getting another 29 as soon as the one I want is available. I like them that much and with my history of losing favorite knives I actually need a back up.
 
I’ve heard rumblings of the #92’s pulls being “weak”- of course this is relative. With Eureka jacks on the horizon, can anyone comment on the pulls of GECs previous #92 runs?
 
The Tidioute Eurekas I have show a 6 master, 5 minor, as Jeff notes, extremely snappy with loud talk (when allowed :D) These are all steel versions, not brass but I don't know if that makes a difference? Perhaps, as the Talon-the single-blade cousin-shows a slightly lighter pull but no lack of snap and that is brass lined.

Thanks, Will
 
As I have said before, the 29 blade pulls are just fine for me but, even though I think the 66 Calf Roper is one of my favorite patterns I just can’t deal with the super light secondaries actions.

I’m getting another 29 as soon as the one I want is available. I like them that much and with my history of losing favorite knives I actually need a back up.
Is this an individual knife fault with the Calf Roper or are the secondaries supposed to be light all across the board ? Reason I ask is because I have a 66 and I am quite pleased with the pull of the secondaries. No they are not a hard pull as they will not chip a thumb nail on opening but they are not a real light pull either and they lock and snap into place. I guess I would feel differently if the secondaries would be for very hard use but I don't know of any traditional pocket knife that is designed for real hard use.That's what fixed blades are for.I like the extra fatness that the three blade knives give because they fill the hand a bit more for use.I have some thinner knives but because of their thinnest, they feel lacking in that respect.The 66 is about a perfect pattern in my eyes and it appears that maybe my secondaries have a little bit more pull effort then yours.
 
Exactly what I was going to ask. Is the problem with lazy secondaries only on the 2017 run? Or is it more of across the board issue?

I too am very happy with the snap on both blades on my #66, but mine is the slim version, where secondary blade rides on the same spring as the main blade.

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And being so surprisingly happy with this pattern, I was looking into acquiring also standard stockman version. But lazy secondaries would make me reconsider.
 
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On my sample size of 2 2017 Calf Ropers, the walk and talk on the secondary blades is just fine. Certainly not an "across the board" issue.

If I ever did get a GEC with lazy blades (which hasn't happened in dozens of GEC purchases) it would go right back to the dealer.
 
I had a couple of Calf Ropers from the first run (2011?) and I remember that all 3 blades had good snap. My 2017's have weaker secondary blades but I still find them satisfactory.
 
So the "knife sweat" thing happened again. I got a picture this time, though by the time I took it I had already started to wipe it down before stopping realizing I was being an idiot. This phenomena has happened 3 times now, all on cool humid nights while it sat on my night stand far from the open window while a fan draws outside air in through the house. Again, for those following at home, my theory is that cut burlap micarta wicks moisture out of the air due to the large exposed fibers. You'll see where I indicate with my finger that there is a glossy sheen of standing water. in the middle of the knife you'll see it's bone dry- that's where I wiped it down a little. Then on the bolster end you can see more shine where I missed some water.

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I would "pop" it with Fiebing's Navy Blue leather dye and let it roll will patina.
 
can anyone comment on the pulls of GECs previous #92 runs?
I've only owned a Talon (not a Jack), but the pull on the blade was a solid 5 and very snappy.
I've owned three #66s and they've all had soft pulls on the lamb and spey, but solid pull on the clip.
I had a #66 Jack and it had impressive pulls on both blades (should have kept that one).
 
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