Lets use those axes for what they were ment for.

Could be I have not split red oak. I have split white oak using a 3 1/2 lb. True Temper double bit with no problem and I noticed while loading it that it did not have the density that Emory Oak has. (Which I couldn't do on Emory oak.) Plus, the growth on those trees don't have much limb wood. Thus, no large limb anchors to deal with. Just my experience. DM
 
We have canyon live oak here. Those get pretty good size, and burn well. Lots of long lasting hot coals. Boy, they are hard to work. Almost impossible to split, and miserable to buck with an axe. A lot of twisty interlocked grain, even in the straight sections.

Maybe that's how your Emory oaks are. If so, and that's all you've got.......condolences!

White oak can be tough splitting around the crotches and so on, or if its partially seasoned sometimes it locks up a bit, but its decent overall.

We also have black oak, it's the easiest to work by far, and burns nice.
 
David Martin said:
Could be I have not split red oak. I have split white oak using a 3 1/2 lb. True Temper double bit with no problem and I noticed while loading it that it did not have the density that Emory Oak has. (Which I couldn't do on Emory oak.) Plus, the growth on those trees don't have much limb wood. Thus, no large limb anchors to deal with. Just my experience. DM
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Red's a lot stringier than white and I think a tad softer but it's almost up there with hickory for splitting. Emory sounds real tough. White i'd guess is the most brittle of the bunch.

While I wouldn't use it for long handles, red is comparable to hickory in the 32 and under category, just about 30% softer
 
David Martin said:
I am continually floored at how you guys split, limb and buck your trees with just a 3-3 1/2 lb. axe. That just would not work on my Emory oaks. DM
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I typically use only a 6lbs maul because I hate constantly pulling a stuck axe out of a round. A maul will most often either split or bounce off the wood. (I split red oak, maple, ash, and beach) And often when it bounces it still fractures the wood so the next swing will easily finish it off.

This wood was so frozen that the axe popped it apart just fine, it was nice to use a lighter tool. I’ve been on the hunt for 5 ish lbs rafting head. I think it may be a nice compromise between a normal full-sized axe and maul.
 
David Martin said:
I am continually floored at how you guys split, limb and buck your trees with just a 3-3 1/2 lb. axe. That just would not work on my Emory oaks. DM
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I don't split with a 3 or 4 lb axe hardly ever. Just on the chopping block to make smaller pieces out of already split firewood.

I have a 5 lb rafting axe and a 6 lb maul for that, hammers and wedges, and a hydraulic splitter I use sparingly. I don't like the extra handling of bringing it home unsplit, unloading, then splitting and stacking so I split the majority in the woods with hand tools. I'm not above a chainsaw sissy cut either. I'm a pretty good wood splitter and usually get it done just about as fast as hydraulics.

But there are times, with some wood, it's a job for the machine. At that point I'm glad it's an option. :)
 
David Martin said:
I am continually floored at how you guys split, limb and buck your trees with just a 3-3 1/2 lb. axe. That just would not work on my Emory oaks. DM
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Red oak grows pretty fast and does split well. I've never had an easier time than this year though using a 5# axe. I do switch to a 3-1/2# when splitting the smaller pieces. However splitting it once seasoned is a beast. I don't believe Emory oak grows here in downeast ME but i could be wrong. Haven't looked into it.
Have you ever made any handles from Emory oak DM? Or has anyone for that matter? I really do like red oak for handles. In my view the extra flexibility in the haft saves the eye wood a bit. Plus I really like the idea of using something grown locally that has a historical precedent. Same with white ash.
 
muleman77, I don't have a hydraulic wood splitter. I have access to one but I have to load the rounds and haul them over. So, I'm not above
using my chainsaw to make a cut in order to encourage it to split. I like splitting where I cut them and use my 5 lb. 10 oz. Council ax with wedges. A good splitting ax. If it's getting late I may leave them for another day. Thanks, DM
 
Maine20 said:
I typically use only a 6lbs maul because I hate constantly pulling a stuck axe out of a round. A maul will most often either split or bounce off the wood. (I split red oak, maple, ash, and beach) And often when it bounces it still fractures the wood so the next swing will easily finish it off.
This wood was so frozen that the axe popped it apart just fine, it was nice to use a lighter tool. I’ve been on the hunt for 5 ish lbs rafting head. I think it may be a nice compromise between a normal full-sized axe and maul.
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Try Council Tools. That's were I got mine. It's the flat head. DM
 
My MS250, Rough Rider, 4lb Plumb, and BAKER at work limbin' and trimmin' a dead tree that's been standing near the driveway for a year or two. My brother dropped it and started bucking it up with his 281 before it started having issues so he (and the saw) stopped and I took over. The MS250 runs like a champ and complemented my axes nicely .... until I hit a hidden rock in a fatwood stump I was bucking up this afternoon:mad:. Time to sharpen the chain:(.
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I had some fun today splitting cedar logs. A few years ago we built a new disc golf course here in Maple Valley. I played a big role in working with the City to get it approved and funded. And I spent many days leading work parties or working alone to get it built. It's become very popular and we've built an active club with many people participating with the upkeep and improvement of the course. A few weeks back we had a strong wind storm that snapped off a couple cedar trees near the 6th basket. At a work party last week I limbed and sectioned those windfalls. I cut them in long sections so we could use them for backstop posts and benches.

Today I went back and started splitting the sections.
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I brought wedges, sledges, axes and spuds. My long Warren cedar spud is fastest at peeling a line for the split. A few well-placed wedges gets the split started where I want it .
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Then I leapfrog the wedges down the trunk. The ones in back come loose as I drive the wedges in front.
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When western red cedar splits it leaves many crossed over fibers which need to be severed. You can't really get 'em with an axe because the axe falls parallel to them. So I reach in with a little Tajima saw and cut the crossovers.
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Soon it splits cleanly. Council 6 pound flat head on the left, Plumb 3-1/2 pound Michigan on the right.
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The big Council starts the quartering of the next post, splitting through the center of a knot. Hard to see in the photo but the split extends 5" beyond the axe, plenty of space for the first wedge.
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Soon the 13 foot section is quartered.
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Here I'm starting on an 18-inch by 8-foot long section that I'm halving to make benches. The bark spud is handy to start the peel but the cedar spud will do the bulk of the work fastest.
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Again a few well-placed wedges starts the split just where I want it.
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The it's time to start leapfrogging wedges again.
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Pairs of wedges open it up wide so it's easier to get in there to cut the crossovers.
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Sometimes I'll shove the sharp bark spud down in the split to sever the fibers. Then it pops right open.
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The 13-foot long posts will support a backstop to protect players on the 17th tee. It will look similar to this backstop we built on the 10th tee. Hard to see the wire in this photo.
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Here's a picture of a completed backstop on the 10th tee. My niece helped me build it. She's a good strong worker.
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And she's handy with an axe.
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Square_peg--The only thing I do different is that I start the split with a big steel socket wedge. I drive this steel socket wedge with a wood maul or a commander. After the split starts to open I leapfrog large wood gluts (wedges) just like you did with the steel wedges, also driving them with the maul or commander. If you only use a steel wedge at the start, which drops out quickly when you start with the wood gluts, you only have wood in the log. This allows you to use your axe, bark spud, cedar spud, etc. to sever the fibers with wild abandon and not worry about hitting steel wedges. Great job and very nice pictures.
 
My Grand Father built a barn and corn crib from cedar posts like those you worked. Some Very nice work!
I'm shocked you could drive your Council into a cedar limb anchor to facilitate a split. There is no way I could do
that on my Emory oak. My chopping is more brute force and this is more finesse. That's why you build with some woods and heat your home with others. Thanks for taking the time to give us all these pictures. DM
 
Here you go Axe men, another 1/2 cord, of oak, cut, loaded and ready for the drive home. You can tell my dog is excited about all this.
Today I carried my Wards Master Quality ax. It has a good blade profile for limb work and splitting but lacks enough weight to be
a decent splitter. Bucking and limbing would work better for it. Still, it is a 3 1/2 lb. ax which several post here that they use this class axe for splitting. (Maine20 and others) But I found this weight ax to Not work well on my oak wood. Even with the trees having been dead for 20 years.
It penetrates well but lacks enough lead in it's butt to drive deeper and finish the split. It required 3-4 chops to finish the split. Whereas my heavier Council ax could have opened these rounds in 1-2 chops. Different wood requires a heavier duty axe. DM
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