Logo Etching for INFI, need help please

I thought it was weird to but few tutorials I watched said put the POS on blade and neg on the swab, next time I'll try it the other way. Still worked very well took maybe 10 min with car battery and went slightly deeper then I wanted
 
Just looked at my setup and noticed that I had it backwards in my mind. :foot: Will go edit above posts... :eek:
 
Ok. So I've been looking at vids and reading here but still am nervous about etching for the first time. What to do?....What to do?.......to etch or not to etch....that is the question
 
I just ordered some stuff off Amazon and grabbed Citristrip as well. Probably going to start with a couple BG knives and I think there is too much lettering to bother with it on those. The only ones I would etch are the simple BUSSE/SWAMP RAT/SYKCO logos.
 
inkynate said:
I just ordered some stuff off Amazon and grabbed Citristrip as well. Probably going to start with a couple BG knives and I think there is too much lettering to bother with it on those. The only ones I would etch are the simple BUSSE/SWAMP RAT/SYKCO logos.
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Definitely worth taking the time to etch the battle grades. I think the main thing to remember is scrubbing the logo after it turns black. At that point, all of the oxidation has taken place, no more reaction happening. I just use a small, stainless, wire brush.
8c0a14115ff3b30f81ebaa2fe13855dd.jpg
 
That etching looks awesome!!! Did you use the Q-tip technique recommended in this thread?

For anyone who has stripped and used SR101 in the South.

What have your results been like? Experience a lot of rust, blade spotting? Does the blade require more TLC? Is it worth saving the SR101 and stripping or just switching to INFI and not worry about the hassle of the environment and SR101?
 
That etching looks great. I agree, you got to share on that one. Please. I too am curious about the questions above. That look pro grade.
 
That was with ferric chloride (PCB etchant). I used to use muriatic acid, but it seems to take longer. I really want to try the electrolytic method, guys seem to get great results with it. I just feel like I have more control over the process with an acid. I just blot it on with a q-tip, let it sit till it turns black (seems to vary a bit time wise), scrub it off with a wire brush in a bucket of water, and repeat. And when you think you're deep enough, do it a few more times. Scrubbing it with the brush will show you if you're undercutting the resist.
 
That etch looks almost factory done. Fine job there, really. Thanks for sharing. I got get some of this stuff.

jsnell said:
That was with ferric chloride (PCB etchant). I used to use muriatic acid, but it seems to take longer. I really want to try the electrolytic method, guys seem to get great results with it. I just feel like I have more control over the process with an acid. I just blot it on with a q-tip, let it sit till it turns black (seems to vary a bit time wise), scrub it off with a wire brush in a bucket of water, and repeat. And when you think you're deep enough, do it a few more times. Scrubbing it with the brush will show you if you're undercutting the resist.
Click to expand...
 
No problem. On a side note, Infi seems to take a little longer, which makes sense given that it's more corrosion resistant.
 
freehouse32 said:
That etching looks awesome!!! Did you use the Q-tip technique recommended in this thread?

For anyone who has stripped and used SR101 in the South.

What have your results been like? Experience a lot of rust, blade spotting? Does the blade require more TLC? Is it worth saving the SR101 and stripping or just switching to INFI and not worry about the hassle of the environment and SR101?
Click to expand...

No worries. As others have said, the myth of SR101 rusting is overblown. I think most of it is decab left on the blade. Take a little care when freshly stripped, use it and let it develop a patina, and you will be good to go. I live in Southern Illinois and have no problems.
 
jsnell said:
Definitely worth taking the time to etch the battle grades. I think the main thing to remember is scrubbing the logo after it turns black. At that point, all of the oxidation has taken place, no more reaction happening. I just use a small, stainless, wire brush.
8c0a14115ff3b30f81ebaa2fe13855dd.jpg
Click to expand...

Wow!! :eek:

I stand corrected. Thought it would come out blurry, but that looks awesome. May have to reconsider.
 
So I am about to attempt 9v etching for the first time. Using a KDSH for my first try then on to my CGBB13. Wish me luck and any helpful hints are appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
That etching posted by jsnell looks great. Good luck Zombi, I too have been thinking about etching one lol. I got everything I need, just have not got the courage up yet to do it. lol. I get anxiety when it comes to stuff like this. I know I will be so happy if it comes out good and I will so bummed if I mess it up. I ordered a bottle of the etchant now its all about just getting it done. I think I am going to do a trial blade first or just etch some plain steel. I need practice to make me feel better about etching a $350 to $500 blade. :distrust:
 
Whenever you think it's been etched enough.....etch it some more. The deeper you get it, the more leeway you have for whatever type of finish you want to put on it afterwars. On my DTBM I gave it a "good enogh" etch but once I got the coating off, the blade needed some sanding and I lost the logo.
 
Was wondering the same thing! Who cares if the Busse logo is present! I actually like them better Sterile! NO LOGO!!
CHEMMINS said:
Am I the only guy not worried about etching the blade before during or after stripping?
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