Long term project / test knife - bushfinger

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Dec 13, 2013
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Update 8/21/14 -- technology fail; test completed today, SD card corrupted. :mad: No pics. I'm a bit bummed about this but will probably be doing another test soon.

So every once in a while, I encounter a knife that (for me) presents an ideal opportunity for long-term hard use testing. As of recent, I have been rounding off my collection and finding my time more well spent using my fiddlebacks as opposed to sharking new ones (I still do relapse here and there ;)). In writing this, I had recently concluded a multi-knife trade (thanks Sam!!), where I received a very interesting emerald burlap blueback bushfinger (1/8" SFT), that was just screaming for a long-term write up. As many of you know, the bushfinger is hailed as one of Andy's most popular flagship models, and provides a wide range of flexibility in a nice 8.5" OAL profile. Over the coming months, I plan on posting several entries in this thread, summarizing various thoughts and experiences involving the bushfinger in a myriad of different bushcraft / survival / real-world-use scenarios! Feel free to post any questions or comments in the thread, and I will try my best to provide an answer or pic summary where applicable, otherwise, check back often for regular updates.

Cheers & Let the testing begin,

Will

The Subject:
De-Bluebacked Bushfinger - Sandblasted emerald burlap over natural canvas, with a white g10 pinstripe, 1/8" SFT convex 01 steel; "de-bluebacked" & 40° inclusive convex regrind courtesy of my WEPS (hey, I had to make it my own! :D)

Blade: 4"
Handle: 4.5"
OAL: 8.5"
Weight: 5.75oz
Balance point: @2nd set of pins (1.75" from top of scales)

Pics: Probably the last time she'll be shiny & clean for a while!
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I use a ultrafine scotchbrite and very light pressure. I've obtained a fair amount of practice in the process of restoring old knives.
 
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Cont. Of note that bluing was pretty deep, so the knife has a really cool satin finish that is just a shade darker than regular 01 that comes from the forge. I assume that it will patina normally, but TBD.
 
Great idea, and I'm really looking forward to your testing. Do you have an itinerary for testing or are you considering requests? One other question. Why 40°? I'm still waiting for my Fiddleback's to dull a little more before I re profile to 30°. I sharpen everything including hatchets to 30° or less. If the steel can't handle it it goes in the pile of unused knives. :D I fully expect the Fiddlebacks to handle 30° easily for what I do. Curious to hear your thoughts. :)
 
so .. just using a bit of devil's advocate here, but basically your long term project/test begins by modifying the Bushfinger from stock/how it was received new?
 
How on earth did you de-blueback it?

A long time ago when I was 16 or 17 years old, I inherited a .22LR rifle that had some rust spots on the barrel. I had the bright idea to use some naval jelly (rust remover) to get the rust spots off. The good news was that it worked. The bad news was that the bluing on the barrel was gone also. That was when I learned why they call it rust blue.

I am not encouraging anyone to try it and possibly mess up his knife, but I suspect that naval jelly would act similarly on the Blueblack finish. Again, don't risk your nice knife to try this.

Phil
 
so .. just using a bit of devil's advocate here, but basically your long term project/test begins by modifying the Bushfinger from stock/how it was received new?

Point well taken (a valid one at that); I guess for me, I was more caught up in the profile. The bluing is new for me, and my decision to remove it was aesthetic (I was also a little curious as well). Sharpening it was more to guarantee the edge (I.e Andy and crew hand sharpen, so sometimes there are minor irregularities) -- using the WEPS and an angle gauge just let me put a known / referencable edge angle on it.

None the less, a valid point Bud but I'm hoping it won't affect the tests control too much :thumbup:
 
Not to mention that Blueing is also highly toxic and if any residue was left behind on your food it could make you extremely sick! I've been looking at those and wondering, but I'm not keen on a knife that has been blued.
 
None the less, a valid point Bud but I'm hoping it won't affect the tests control too much :thumbup:

Yeah ... I would have been interested in how the stock edge performed in a cutting test (to dull) and then retested with the new profiled edge. The bluing removal .. I would have thought white vinegar would have been an easier technique.
 
Not to mention that Blueing is also highly toxic and if any residue was left behind on your food it could make you extremely sick! I've been looking at those and wondering, but I'm not keen on a knife that has been blued.

I thought Andy and Co, stated that these bluebacks were safe...?
 
Great idea, and I'm really looking forward to your testing. Do you have an itinerary for testing or are you considering requests? One other question. Why 40°? I'm still waiting for my Fiddleback's to dull a little more before I re profile to 30°. I sharpen everything including hatchets to 30° or less. If the steel can't handle it it goes in the pile of unused knives. :D I fully expect the Fiddlebacks to handle 30° easily for what I do. Curious to hear your thoughts. :)

So, for my intended purposes I figured that a little extra steel behind the edge (esp. on 1/8") might mitigate any sort of potential damage during harder use (still within reason for 1/8")
 
Not to mention that Blueing is also highly toxic and if any residue was left behind on your food it could make you extremely sick! I've been looking at those and wondering, but I'm not keen on a knife that has been blued.

Nope, Andy posted the MSDS for their gunblue (birchwood Casey?).. Post reaction, what's left behind is just oxidization.
 
Yeah ... I would have been interested in how the stock edge performed in a cutting test (to dull) and then retested with the new profiled edge. The bluing removal .. I would have thought white vinegar would have been an easier technique.


I have another 1/8" sft BF (stock) I can use as a control on this test, so we're good to go. I've got some new climbing rope coming in, so for the edge test , I wanted to do 50-100 1ft. Cuts , followed by phone book push cutting, followed by slicing soft media like a tomato or similar. Any other requests / thoughts or this test, let me know!
 
Ok, fair enough. I hadn't seen anything from Andy on it, remember I am really new around here lol. I just know, as a gunsmith that has done many many blue jobs, that most blue treatments are toxic. Some are not though, and I wanted to mention that but forgot to. What would have been really interesting to see is if you would have polished the blue off against the grain of the steel. It should have left some blueing in between the ridges and given you a dark look at certain angles or a plished look at other angles. Not sure though since I haven't tried it on O1 or a knife yet.
 
Any other requests / thoughts or this test, let me know!

Repeated cuts into a big piece of pig skin or some other consistent meat? Just an idea .. nothing more.
 
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