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Looking for critiques and constructive criticism...new member. Made my first knife.

C

Cf3

Joined
Sep 2, 2025
Messages
35

Hello and hope all are doing well and enjoying good weather and many blessings.

Couldn't figure out how to post picture so put link to a youtube short of video of the knife...it's 8 inches total length. 5160, 3.5 inch blade. 4.5 inch handle. Convex grind. 22 shells for peened pins and jb weld as epoxy bed. The scales are american hop-hornbeam with a light pine stain. The spine and tang is 5.75mm. I know it's thick but wanted it durable incase get lost hunting and need it to button kindling and what not. Shaped it like a boning/ hunter's clip point style because lost my old field knife for dressing deer. Started with the basic tops skinat photo printed out and cut out and traces for general template and modified it fit my hand better. I also drew inspiration from the handle style of the street scalpal and thw point and quench sequence I used was inspired by the lions toothpick. Did a variation of a differential quench but instead of going from spine to edge I went tip to tang. I dipped it in oil blade first in a small amount of oil so it heated oil cause wanted a gentler hardening. Then I dipped the handle, then the blade again. Buried it for 2 minutes then hosed it off. Then double cycle tempered it at 380 degrees let cool and repeated. I had annealed it when tested airflow of forge before I built fire bowl properly. So shaped it cold threw reduction grinding filing etc. Then I also normalized a few times before quenched it incase the leafspring had any stress in it that didn't come out with annealing. For the annealing I just heated it and buried it with a few coals over night.

Decided to make the knife outa of leafspring steel so had something to heat treat and quench and temper when tried out forge built cause didn't want to run it simply to harden clay only

Thank you for your time
 

Hand practiced scales the night before on an old cleaver and I also took multiple attempts on the scales because first ones weren't flush n smooth enough and tried peeling nails like on cleaver and split the first set of scales on the hunting knife...I'd hammer em a Lil more round and sand sum more and tighten it back up...pushing a coned off 22 shell into a hollow one was much more better but wish had drilled big enough to do so before quenched it. Had to pull out a tooling bit from tap and dies to make em bigger.
 
I think it's a good first attempt. I don't know enough to comment on the construction methods. I do think that you were pretty creative with your materials (.22 shells!). In terms of personal preference I don't love the blade shape but if you do and it suits your needs that's all that matters. If you intend to sell knives someday I would think of other patterns though. Also I prefer sharp grind lines, everything here is very soft. I would work on not having those scratches along the edge.

Again, A nice first attempt, we will be able to say we knew you when...😀
 
DevinT said:
Looks like you have got the knife making bug.

Good luck on your journey.

It would be good if you could find someone in your area to mentor you.

Knife making can be expensive so be careful.

Hoss
Click to expand...
Also this.
 
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Welcome to Shop Talk.
Fill out your profile so we know where you live and a bit about you. There may be a maker nearby who can help you learn.

The knife is a good first knife. Congratulations!

As you said, it is very thick. A bit thinner would be better, try 4.75mm next time. Most field knives are between 3mm and 4mm thick at the spine. This make a knife that is strong and also cuts well.

The edge looks convex. That is common on a first knife. While that is a good type edge for rough use knives, it will create wedging on such a thick blade. It also could use more sanding to get a smoother finish.

Like Triton, I am not a fan of the shape of the handle or blade. While it looks cool, it is not robust. The narrow neck at the handle front is a place where it could break in rough use. The blade shape will not be good for batoning. For a field knife, a 3.5" blade with a 4.5" handle drop point hunter in 4.75mm steel will be a far more useful knife.

Your HT sounds good in theory, but the quench method is not good. A full quench is what you want. This fully hardens the steel by converting it to martensite. From there you temper twice, just as you did. After the blade is hardened and tempered, you can "draw" the temper with a torch to soften the spine and tang more that the bevel and edge.

For a good HT in a simple forge like yours:
Heat the blade evenly to a dull red color. Check frequently with a magnet until it does not stick anymore. Immediately quench in 4 liters (1 gallon) of oil. Canola or mineral oil will work. The oil should be warmed to 50-55°C (120-130°F). Plunge the blade straight in the oil and move up and down for 10 seconds. Keep the blade in the oil for 30 seconds more, then take out, wipe off , and temper as soon as possible.

I commend you on your ingenuity in making a forge and a knife from what you have on hand. Better equipment and tools will improve the results, but what you have is basically what I started with. Here is my first knife made in 1961. I used nails for rivets. (I need to take a better photo of it)

first%20knife (100x67).jpg
 
Welcome to the madness 😁

First knives are exciting and rewarding and disappointing all rolled in to one. I’ve seen better and worse and you should be proud to have one under your belt. It’s not as easy as you thought, right? 😏

If your intentions are to get “better” at making in general, I’ll give you advice that I wish that I had taken. Find a knife pattern that you like and try to make 5 of the same pattern. One at a time. Assess each one to find where it deviates in result from what you want and ask specific questions on how to improve that part. It’s much easier to get “better” when it’s not the “first time” every time on differing patterns. My 2 cents.

Most importantly , enjoy it!

Best,
John
 
https://flic.kr/p/2rrfD9G

https://flic.kr/p/2rrfFhi

https://flic.kr/p/2rrerXx

https://flic.kr/p/2rrerWW

Tried out the forge and anvil with sum cut off material and if rain stops would like to try heat treating how Stacey mentioned....really appreciate the input as it helps lessen steepness of learning curve. Few questions have in lieu of responses (appreciate all the responses greatly). Do u bring the blade as close to possible to finnished before heat treat and temper. I had left alot of extra material on first attempt when tried to heat treat it cause figured could still work it a bit afterward being mindful of heat generated by power sanding. Will prolly slowly bring it down to recommended mm..figure if have a pail of water and dip it frequently while a t the belt sander shouldn't be to hard knock off half mm each side of blade and make it sharper angled. As far as basic tools what do you guys recommend. I've got a drill press lined up because I've tried making straight razor scales before and imperfections in drilling by hand show up in end result something fierce. Have a small drill press stand attachment thing for drill and will try that for now cause I found a key for drill chuck so can change the bit. For this practice piece played with to get a feel for the material I'd like to make it a Lil folder. Figure will make a handle it folds into similar to a straight razor but will chisel out a full length spacer to curvature the blade instead of just a wedge on non pivoting side. The pics In this message or forged and rough shape. Figure will attempt to polish it after ht. Today would like to shape it up rest of way and make the scales if get it close as possible to finnished shape without over reducing it and calling it scrap. Original idea was to draw out the handle more but I split the end with sledge hammer so changed approach and decided to go with a folding pocket style handle. Is there a simple locking system can try to incorporate. Going to look closely at my Lil ceo pocket knife cause I do like the locking system on that...

I will defiantly try to make the same knife multiple times when get some consistent material. For now I'm going to focus on 5160 steel just to get a feel for the same steel for now...I'd like to make a katana for myself and a machete for a buddy. Found a piece of Ar500 steel in a field while walking my dog. It was a piece broke off a combine soybean head...the skid plate hit a rock and welds broke..

After researching the properties of the steel am leaning towards not wasting time with it. Is their a steel type that is more forgiving then others for beginners to learn with? I studied sculpture and foundry pour style stuff before and have tinkered with homemade forge before but most didn't work well. Im happy with this design...

Thanks again for your time and responses. Have got some extra time on my hands and limited resources at moment and live in a rural area and really digging this forum. Is good to talk to some people with shared interests. Hope you all have an awesome day and the weather is good your way.
 
https://flic.kr/p/2rri6uz

https://flic.kr/p/2rrgfAF

The water helps heat mitigation alot and figured since didn't exactly heat treat first one right might as well get aggressive with geometry of it since have extra material. Thanks again for the advice. Have three belts...a very used one, a brand new one, and the one on it that's pretty new as well. Was working in a glass shop and the owner my cousin decided to move to Cali so gave me the tools. It's a wet sander for glass but seems to work well on metal and wood.

https://flic.kr/p/2rrhrtP
 
https://flic.kr/p/2rrm9sC

Found a box of old projects and cordavan strop and strop wax and old razors was restoring...took a practice run on set of camel bone scales. Found some deer leg bone scales made few summers ago thinking can modify for this lil folder.
 
Got to a point would really appreciate a 2nd opinion on liquid bonding agent. Ive got clear non foaming gorilla glue and Grey jb weld on hand...don't want to use the jb weld and have over flow stain the bone..can't find the psi of gorilla glue in the manufacturer's specs....
The bones were prepared a few years ago. I soaked em in i believe it was ammonia in a tupaware container or maybe it was cosmetic grade hydrogen peroxide...can't exactly remember which cause was making a euro mount deer skull at time and had both on hand...pretty sure hydrogen peroxide was bleaching agent and ammonia was fat pulling agent so they don't yellow with age......
Im wondering if drilled some counter sink style holes into the aluminum (commercial store front grade aluminum) and the bones haveing majority of fat pulled from them and wiped everything down with acetone if gorilla glue would be sufficient as a sealant/ gap filler...the bones aren't glass flat and don't want to make them any thinner and sand more on sandpaper taped to glass. The aluminum is glass flat...minus a bend in part of scale for hopefully working lock mechanism. The rivet material I ordered years ago off of Maggard razors so it is pretty decent and have shaved with few years for years used it on and it seems to hold up well so have faith in the rivet system. Im wondering if clear gorilla non foaming will be sufficient or if should get a clear two part epoxy? The holes are straight and tight cause was able to use a glass hole cutting saw...it ran too fast for the steep but ripped threw the scale and bones double sided tape together like butter. Am going have to find another key for the other drill press stand thing had planned on using but was able to get good holes besides the extra one...I get too excited and rushed on that one....

https://flic.kr/p/2rrp6a8

https://flic.kr/p/2rrqT8d

https://flic.kr/p/2rrrreP

https://flic.kr/p/2rrpMfA
 
Cf3 said:
Got to a point would really appreciate a 2nd opinion on liquid bonding agent. Ive got clear non foaming gorilla glue and Grey jb weld on hand...don't want to use the jb weld and have over flow stain the bone..can't find the psi of gorilla glue in the manufacturer's specs....
The bones were prepared a few years ago. I soaked em in i believe it was ammonia in a tupaware container or maybe it was cosmetic grade hydrogen peroxide...can't exactly remember which cause was making a euro mount deer skull at time and had both on hand...pretty sure hydrogen peroxide was bleaching agent and ammonia was fat pulling agent so they don't yellow with age......
Im wondering if drilled some counter sink style holes into the aluminum (commercial store front grade aluminum) and the bones haveing majority of fat pulled from them and wiped everything down with acetone if gorilla glue would be sufficient as a sealant/ gap filler...the bones aren't glass flat and don't want to make them any thinner and sand more on sandpaper taped to glass. The aluminum is glass flat...minus a bend in part of scale for hopefully working lock mechanism. The rivet material I ordered years ago off of Maggard razors so it is pretty decent and have shaved with few years for years used it on and it seems to hold up well so have faith in the rivet system. Im wondering if clear gorilla non foaming will be sufficient or if should get a clear two part epoxy? The holes are straight and tight cause was able to use a glass hole cutting saw...it ran too fast for the steep but ripped threw the scale and bones double sided tape together like butter. Am going have to find another key for the other drill press stand thing had planned on using but was able to get good holes besides the extra one...I get too excited and rushed on that one....

https://flic.kr/p/2rrp6a8

https://flic.kr/p/2rrqT8d

https://flic.kr/p/2rrrreP

https://flic.kr/p/2rrpMfA
Click to expand...
Hey, and welcome to the forum! I use west systems G-flex two part epoxy. I started with the devcon brand which didn't work nearly as well for me and switched over.
I wouldn't recommend using gorilla glue or anything with much color to it, but whatever works for you!
The west systems G-flex epoxy is pretty expensive but I've never had a problem with it and will keep on using it. Also, I like to wait 2 full days for curing time instead of 24 hours. It gets much firmer.
Linus
 
Thank you Linus I will definitely put that in my notebook so remember it. Appreciate it alot. May not be able to get it on this one and will find a clear two part epoxy thats budget friendly for the time being but will def get it if get to point in time where it will really be needed...for moment am just tinkering to get a feel for things. The epoxy u mention would be for something that get sum nice steel and really get technical.
Carl
 
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