Looking for electro etch plans

Status
Not open for further replies.
I

indy

Joined
May 4, 2008
Messages
133
I spent the afternoon on google and following dead link after dead link for a DIY electro etch machine. Does anyone have an active link or some direction on how to build and use?

Thanks in advance!

*edit*

So of course 5 minutes later I find the plans. So quick edit, I know you run DC to etch and then AC to darken the etch. What voltage and amperage does each run?
 
Last edited:
12 volts works well. 24 volts will fry your stencils pretty fast. I believe the easiest way to "make" and etcher would be to get a small 12 volt, 2 to 5 amp battery charger. Add a dpdt switch to the chargers box and then tap on to the wires that go from the transformer to the rectifier. Then cut the wires going from the rectifier to the leads. The tapped on leads by the transformer would supply your AC and go to a set of the outside terminals on you dpdt sw. The wires coming from the rectifier that you cut need to go to the other outside terminals of the switch and the leads that go out to the clamps would then connect to the center terminals. Now you can switch from AC to DC. Built a 1/2" x 1" stainless pad with an insulated handle and and a lug to attach the negative lead from the charger to it after removing that leads clamp. Cover the pad with felt held on with a rubber band and you have an etcher. I made mine from scratch with the plans above. I believe you could save a lot of time and effort by starting with a charger.
 
Last edited:
The ones I build are 28v, 3a and I don't burn up stencils at all. I have one that has been used 14 or 15 times and still looks new. But I use Q-tips and not the felt pad. just use an alligator clip to hold the q-tip and dip it in your solution and quickly dab it on the stencil. no more than a sec or two at a time. let it cool off after you have gone over the whole stencil once. then repeat until your desired depth is done then do ac the same way except a little faster.
 
The method of using may well affect stencil life. I use a felt pad on a 1/2" x 1" stainless plate on the end of a nylon handle. I use a couple table spoons of salt and a couple table spoons of vinegar in a cup of distilled water as a wetting solution. I wet the felt in that then dab the excess off on a sponge. I then press and hold for a count of 5 release a second and do another press and count of 5, I repeat 10 times then set on AC and do that 5 times. I built mine with a transformer and can set it to 24 volts or 12. If I use this method and 24 v I fry the stencil in about 5 or 6 marks. If I use this method and 12 v I get a great deep mark and my stencils last for a long time. If I cut my time press time back and gave it more release time it would probably do OK with 24 volts. I am happy with the way I do it now though. Jim
 
I use 4 oz of vinegar and a tblspn of salt warmed up in microwave for about 20 sec., and thats it, I don't dab the excess off it helps keep the stencil cool, but this is with a q-tip and just dabing it.
 
Just get a 12 VDC 2.5 AMP power supply from radio shack, 2 alligator clips, some QTips and some salt water. Cut the connector off the power supply noting and marking which one is negative, install the alligator clips, buy some stencils from Ernie Grospitch who you can find on the forum and you are set to etch. I built the Chris Crawford etcher also, but it kept burning up stencils. The Radio Shack power supply is simple and easy to use. if you want more detail let me know.
 
Big Smitty said:
Just get a 12 VDC 2.5 AMP power supply from radio shack, 2 alligator clips, some QTips and some salt water. Cut the connector off the power supply noting and marking which one is negative, install the alligator clips, buy some stencils from Ernie Grospitch who you can find on the forum and you are set to etch. I built the Chris Crawford etcher also, but it kept burning up stencils. The Radio Shack power supply is simple and easy to use. if you want more detail let me know.
Click to expand...

Seems pretty straight-forward. How does one cut the stencils; or is that what you get from Ernie when you buy his stencils... give him the design and he cuts them?
 
http://www.chriscrawfordknives.com/CCK/Etcher_Tutorial/Default.asp

I have the schematic it is gonna take me a sec to dig it up in a link, I saved all of my stuff as the actual PDF's and not the links. I set up mine for AC/DC, and also 12/24v. It took me about two hours to get everything together. I have very little electrical knowhow and I did not find this over complicated. Little common sense goes a long way. I use TUStech stencils and electrolyte.

Here's the schematic PDF link.
http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/electro-etcher_circuit.pdf

If you do not want 12/24v switching I would just wire it for 12v so you do not cook stencils. Some say they do not cook em but why take that chance. All you need is a little patience to get what you want with 12v.
 
Last edited:
I wired the Crawford etcher up with a switch to change from 24V to 12V depending on what I wanted. I always use the 12V as I feel it makes less heat. DC to etch, AC to darken.

I also use the Q-tip method. It allows more gassing off, less heat build up, and more accuracy of etching. However, you have to make sure that you're dabbing the stencil evenly to get an even etch. I got my stencils form Ernie Grospitch (erniesknives .com).

For a wetting solution, I now use just 1 tablespoon of salt in one cup of warm water. I dip the Q-tip, and then dab the excess off the tip so that it doesn't swamp the stencil area in fluid. I used to use vinegar as well, but had some problems with rusting and discoloration. Salt water works just as well.

IMG_6832m.jpg


--nathan
 
69_knives said:
Seems pretty straight-forward. How does one cut the stencils; or is that what you get from Ernie when you buy his stencils... give him the design and he cuts them?
Click to expand...

When you get a stencil from Ernie that's what you got..... just cut the stencil out to size leaving room for electrician's tape to hold it FLAT against the blade, cover any areas where you even dream the marking pad may touch it :(

Ernie makes a great stencil and they last.
 
indy said:
Thanks for the info. Is the AC a full 110V, or has it been stepped down?
Click to expand...


The a/c output in the Crawford/Warner etcher tutorial is 25.2 volts @ 2 amps. The etcher works by transforming 110 volts a/c to either 25.2 volts a/c or 25.2 volts rectified d/c depending on switch position. Depending on the transformer you buy, your voltage and amperage may vary.

I built the etcher as per the tutorial and find it does burn the stencils fairly quickly. If I were to build another one, I would select a smaller transformer.

Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
 
The 110 goes into the transformer full power where it is stepped down. You use the stepped down power on both the ac and dc settings. 12VDC or 12VAC. Some use 24VAC and 24VDC/ I think 110VAC would give you an instant black spot on your blade and a brown one in your drawers
 
gixxer said:
http://www.chriscrawfordknives.com/CCK/Etcher_Tutorial/Default.asp

I have the schematic it is gonna take me a sec to dig it up in a link, I saved all of my stuff as the actual PDF's and not the links. I set up mine for AC/DC, and also 12/24v. It took me about two hours to get everything together. I have very little electrical knowhow and I did not find this over complicated. Little common sense goes a long way. I use TUStech stencils and electrolyte.

Here's the schematic PDF link.
http://www.knives.mlogiudice.com/knifeshop/etcher/electro-etcher_circuit.pdf

If you do not want 12/24v switching I would just wire it for 12v so you do not cook stencils. Some say they do not cook em but why take that chance. All you need is a little patience to get what you want with 12v.
Click to expand...


I bought a handfull of cheap clock radios for the tuners to make tuned antenna for SW, AM etc.. I wonder now, what the rectified DC voltage straight off the clock board would be... Hmm, maybe too low and even if it were high enough probably not enough amperage. The transformer may be useful though.
 
Thanks again, those numbers are exactly what I needed. Now just have to grab the multimeter and do some testing :) I'm going to see if I can do a quick mod on my electroplating system to get the AC voltage right.

Speaking of, would a copper plated blade be a bad idea? I know it might not be the most useful, but it might make a nice display piece.
 
Last edited:
indy said:
Speaking of, would a copper plated blade be a bad idea? I know it might not be the most useful, but it might make a nice display piece.
Click to expand...

I can't see it being much different functionally than any other coated blade, except that the copper would tarnish.
 
I like to use a variac as a transformer so you can dial in your voltage, and it doubles as a titanium anodizer.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top