Love taps

Whenever I rehandle an axe or hatchet, I clean and fit the parts up, slather them in slow cure epoxy, and let them cure for 24hrs. I like to do this in the winter when the wood is drier and smaller. The epoxy keeps the moisture out of the joint so the wood doesn't swell in the summer and shrink in the winter (like wooden furniture). I have never had a head loosen on a tool so treated. A bicycle inner tube stretched over a wooden handle lessens the wear under the head from misstrikes and provides an excellent grip.
 
Wedges are usually poplar...softwood wedges "mush" and hold very well. I have yet to have a wedge come loose on any of my axes (not that I make a living with them, just seasonal chopping and splitting) and they are all poplar I believe.
 
Ok, thanks SC. I'll use it. I have tossed those that came with the handle and made one from oak. It seemed to hold better, so, I was just asking if most used the one that came with it. So soft holds better. DM
 
David Martin said:
Ok, thanks SC. I'll use it. I have tossed those that came with the handle and made one from oak. It seemed to hold better, so, I was just asking if most used the one that came with it. So soft holds better. DM
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At least in my opinion. I know many members here have used hardwood wedges, but I seem to recall that most stories of wedges popping loose were hardwoods. I could be totally wrong, but that's the impression I have. I simply buy store-bought wedges from the hardware store every now and then as I feel they are better than the wedges that are usually attached to handles (especially from House, whose wedges are often too thin). I think the other reason people seem to like softwood wedges are they are easy to shape and they comform and compress to imperfections, likely adding to the holding properties.
 
So David what's happening with wood handles failing on you? Is it just them breaking, coming loose, or getting whittled down from being pinched in the splits, or something else? No judgment either, I am fully aware of the reality of pinched handles and overstrikes and how badly they hurt my soul after all the time I spent on the handle. Which is why I have stopped switching axes for fun and just have a single go to splitter, particularly for serious work, not so much my day-to-day splitting.
 
No, I take you well. A good question. Coming loose, not staying tight & dependable and over-strikes. Wiggling the axe out tends to loosen the head. Which Cost me down time and money. When I need a dependable tool thru the season.
Off season I have more time and could replace a handle. Not being so inconvenient. Getting it down to a once a year effort is much better but borderline. I don't think I can get it better than that. As I know This Oak is hard on tools during splitting... The benefits of having a wood handled axe are, reduced vibration, better strike accuracy and weight forward on the tool which helps in energy transfer. The down side to this is less dependable, cost and my time. I'll do this project and track the time and cost if for nothing else but to help me get the figures down to remind me of operating costs on heating our home. I'm not into the aesthetic look of a tool or acquiring an antique axe. I'm into production and seeing the wood in the barn. DM
 
Putting a bicycle inner tube on an axe handle (like a condom) is a thankless job. It is better to cut a section out of the tube where the valve is. Treat the remaining piece like bicycle handlebar tape. Wind it around the axe handle in a spiral fashion and tame the loose end with duct tape.
 
Be sure to use a tube from a flat tire to keep your overhead costs down.
 
Oh- tiguy you had your coffee this evening. I like your idea but we don't have a bicycle. So, I've been thinking. Perhaps visit the land fill or a garage sale. A Flea market. Some place where they would have a flat bicycle tire with a tube in it not too big around. I really wouldn't care if the Pretty wood was hidden as long as that handle lasted 2 years. DM
 
I didn't get on much this evening as I went out and split rounds for the last 2 hours by moon light as it's a full moon. All with my dependable double bit axe. Heck, I even missed my mark a time or so and the handle & head stayed intact. And we now have a big pile of split wood. I didn't mind working off supper. DM
 
David Martin said:
I didn't get on much this evening as I went out and split rounds for the last 2 hours by moon light as it's a full moon. All with my dependable double bit axe. Heck, I even missed my mark a time or so and the handle & head stayed intact. And we now have a big pile of split wood. I didn't mind working off supper. DM
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Up here they sell a slip on rubber protectors for both axes and mauls. Like $10. Im sure you could find them online. If not I am more than willing to mail you one. Splitting stubborn wood is hell on handles. You may want to try a thicker straight wooden handle for splitting.
 
Thanks Woodcraft. I'm going to look for those in my hardware stores. Something like that will really help. You gents are giving me some good tips. Thank you. DM
 
I think protectors just make things worse. They just make the haft fatter than the eye.

I haven't bust a haft splitting in over 10 years. I split about 2 cords per year. The key to not damaging a haft is not to strike the far side of the round, only the near side. Then if your haft is narrower than your eye you won't have any problems.
 
That's a good tip. I know I don't hesitate to strike the far side during splitting. So, walk around and strike. DM
 
David Martin said:
That's a good tip. I know I don't hesitate to strike the far side during splitting. So, walk around and strike. DM
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Oooh, over-strikes with a rigid metal handle has gotta be generating some 'negative vibes'. Your arms, wrists and fingers will thank you for swapping over to wood.
 
I just tried the new haft, inserting the head onto the haft and some concerns came up. Will this haft even fit this eye? DM
 
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