Love taps

David Martin said:
I measured the thickness of the Kelly double bit metal handle axe and it's 1" . No more at any place. The Hults Bruks is 1 5/16" at the middle of it's eye and mostly keeps this all the way to the hammer head. Will this make it a better splitter? Thanks, DM
Click to expand...

Yeah exactly. Of course there are a number of variables but I'm sure you can imagine that a more obtuse wedge will split much better than a more acute wedge ... at least to a point. My feeling with mauls is that they seem to be just a little too obtuse for my taste or the wood I split (but of course they can be profiled to taste). Splitting axes are somewhere in the middle - lighter weight, more acute than a maul, but heavier and more obtuse than a traditional felling axe. The bit and cheeks thickness matters too, as well as the weight. You can get yourself a 4 or 5lb axe which might appeal to you too. You can profile the edge itself more obtusely ... lots of different approaches that all might help. Axes are obviously pretty handy for splitting but generally speaking, they weren't intended for serious splitting and it's not unusual in the 3-1/2lb range to find pretty thin bit axes that are really strict cutting tools.
 
Yes, I think that's the difference between my Kelly and this Hults Bruk axe. My double bit Kelly is of the thinner profile. A good chopper and for limb work. Whereas the Burk looks to be better for splitting. Which is exactly what I needed as 80% of my axe work is splitting. I'll enjoy discovering the differences. DM
 
Here's a photo of the profile of the 2 axes, Kelly axe on my right and the Hults Bruk. The Hults looks to have a better splitting profile than the Kelly. DM
 
I got the handle all 'slathered' in and the epoxy is drying. Took me 3 hours not counting sanding and polishing on the Hults Bruk head. It needed it. I bought it from a neighbor and don't know how many years it sat around his shop. Plus, I have another hour and a half drive and shop time to get it. Not counting the first one being wrong. Now an over night wait for drying.
So, more than a half day and overnight wait and 20$. If it lasts this season I'll be happy. And I'm hoping it splits better than my Kelly. I've never owned 3 axes. DM
 
Ok, today I sharpen this axe up to 500 grit on a Norton India. It took this edge well. Then I went and split a large, heaping wheelbarrow load of oak with it. My thoughts:
1) I can swing it to a higher speed because it's lighter.
2) With most of the weight being forward this helps to drive it deeper.
3) It's polished and this has a play in deeper penetration and being able to work it out of the wood easier.
4) A wider axe so this helps to split open cracks better.
5) Minimal vibration. An item I was shocked about.
6) Less fatigue.
The down side is 4 1/2 hrs. work plus having to let it dry over night. And 20$ cost in materials. Should it last me 1 year-- just 2 seasons I'll count it breaking even.
Should it last over that I'll count it coming out ahead. DM
 
Last edited:
Ok. I hadn't used an axe with a wood handle in a long time so much of this seems new. I'll try to get along with it. This steel seems hard when grinding. Any thoughts on what Hults Bruk set the target for hardness? Thanks, DM
 
David Martin said:
Ok, today I sharpen this axe up to 500 grit on a Norton India. It took this edge well. Then I went and split a large, heaping wheelbarrow load of oak with it. My thoughts:
1) I can swing it to a higher speed because it's lighter.
2) With most of the weight being forward this helps to drive it deeper.
3) It's polished and this has a play in deeper penetration and being able to work it out of the wood easier.
4) A wider axe so this helps to split open cracks better.
5) Minimal vibration. An item I was shocked about.
6) Less fatigue.
The down side is 4 1/2 hrs. work plus having to let it dry over night. And 20$ cost in materials. Should it last me 1 year-- just 2 seasons I'll count it breaking even.
Should it last over that I'll count it coming out ahead. DM
Click to expand...

Note-worthy observation and one that shouldn't have come as a surprise. Your time and investment on this project will become paltry compared to the future benefits of minimizing carpal tunnel syndrome, ligament tears etc, etc.
 
300Six said:
Note-worthy observation and one that shouldn't have come as a surprise. Your time and investment on this project will become paltry compared to the future benefits of minimizing carpal tunnel syndrome, ligament tears etc, etc.
Click to expand...

Yup. This.
 
300Six said:
Note-worthy observation and one that shouldn't have come as a surprise. Your time and investment on this project will become paltry compared to the future benefits of minimizing carpal tunnel syndrome, ligament tears etc, etc.
Click to expand...

Agreed, very much so. Even about the weight-forward nature of this design and its benefits.
 
Now you're going to have to find some sort of base for doing your splitting. Going straight through a 'surprise' round into the dirt and stones with a keen edge ain't all that good. Where possible I like to use a flush-cut stump for this sort of activity.
 
David Martin said:
That's not possible. Perhaps laying a board flat under it. DM
Click to expand...

Just save your largest toughest round as a splitting block.

In northern climates is pays to protect your splitting block from the weather, rain, snow, freeze, etc. Place three bricks under your block to make a stable tripod base. This keeps bugs and worms from eating into the bottom of your block. Then cover it with a scrap or tin or sheet of plywood. A cinder block on top of your block and below the plywood lets the air and UV in and keeps the bugs out of the top of your block.

Protected like this a block will last for many years even here in the Pacific Northwet.

Let the rain get in the top of your block and freeze and that block will soon be toast.

Tough to split woods like Elm or London Plane make the best blocks. Black locust would be a good choice with its toughness plus rot resistance.
 
This gives me some ideas I can work on. I have a piece of tin and bricks. And I can save it in the barn out of the weather and sun. I'll look close with that in mind and cut one.
Right now I have everything split and enough wood in the dry to make it through Feburary. Thanks, DM
 
A long term splitting block makes sense if you are bringing the unsplit rounds to the area you will be seasoning them. Or if you have wood delivered. If you fell it. If you split it as it lay, then it is not really feasible. The whole point is to touch the wood as few times as possible from felled to the fire. And in a manner that will not cause injury. Splitting as it lay loading and driving it to the stack is easiest for me as well. I have several pictures of me of doing nothing short of abusing several axes this winter in sub freezing temperatures on frozen oak. Both splitting and bucking. Nary a chip, even when driven into the ground and ice. Of course chipping can and does happen, but if you dont sharpen your work and splitting axes to racing angles, it is not that easy to chip an edge.
Of course if you get wood delivered, the nasty round becomes the splitting block. And sometimes I even use one when I split where it lays if the ground is just nasty, but I do not go out of my way.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top