M2 TRYOUT!

[Wild Willie]

Ok. You may need the 3/16" for shoes.

Yeah they're a bit short for for my work boots. I've since switched the brand I wear and the eyelets don't wear out as fast.

 

[000Robert]

Yeah they're a bit short for for my work boots. I've since switched the brand I wear and the eyelets don't wear out as fast.

I haven't messed with boots and shoes much, just one time. And I fixed their eyelet by hand. I can buy the inserts for my press that are made for setting eyelets in footwear, but I haven't bought them yet. Most people just through them away and buy new ones or go to a shop somewhere. Even people in my own family forget that I can fix electronics, firearms, leather stuff, and other stuff. They just sit the TV or whatever on the curb and buy a new one. And I probably could've fixed it for $10; and that's a liberal estimate...

 

[Crag the Brewer]

I may have to take you up on that, Willie. My eyelets from Stecksstore came in today, and they're too short. I thought that when they say 1/4" eyelets, that they are talking about the diameter, like everyone else. Alas, they meant the length.
And 1/4" in length is not long enough for two pieces of Kydex - Photos below.

How many 'good' eyelets do you have? I'll buy a hundred or two of them from you if you have plenty.

View attachment 1968094View attachment 1968096View attachment 1968097View attachment 1968098

I wonder if your die (tandy?) Is more prone to splitting?

I used to hammer mine, but I broke down and bought a press.


I believe last time I bought the eyelets was from DIY holster supply.
.322" tall.
I like .062" thick kydex for knife sheaths

 

[David Mary]

With eyelets that I purchase #8-9 is the length, 1/4" is the diameter.

 

[000Robert]

I wonder if your die (tandy?) Is more prone to splitting?

I used to hammer mine, but I broke down and bought a press.

I have an Italian Twist Press No. 3. It's practically brand new. I probably haven't set more than 30 eyelets with it so far because I rarely need to. The only time I need eyelets in leather sheaths and holsters is to attach a belt clip or for a lanyard hole. Recently I have been making leather sheaths with belt slots cut into the leather. And I just recently got into making kydex sheaths.
So even though I've owned the press for years, it's practically brand new. When I'm not using the press, I keep the inserts oiled up and in their own plastic baggies. So, there is no rust on any of them at all.

I believe last time I bought the eyelets was from DIY holster supply.
.322" tall.
I like .062" thick kydex for knife sheaths

Man, those are expensive and so is the shipping! Anyway, I just ordered 100 of them. If they work great and don't split, they will be worth it.

 

[000Robert]

Well, I found some time between the rain to go outside and take out my frustration on a piece of firewood. I think the wood is Oak because it was some tough stuff. I was going to town on it and my niece exclaimed, "Don't cut your fingers off!". I scraped my knuckle on my right index finger, but it's ok. I didn't baby the blade - I went to town on the wood for about 7 minutes!
Considering that I profiled the edge bevels to 10dps at 400 grit, I think that the steel did a pretty good job. The wood nicked up the edge apex some that can be seen good under magnification. I cut some magazine and printer paper. The blade tried to catch on the paper a little, but it still cut the paper well. At the top left of the cuts on the paper, you can see where I poked the point into the paper and cut it with the tip of the blade.

Edit: Also, I should add that it has been raining and storming here today. It was windy outside between the raining and the wind blew away most of the wood shavings. I should've swept them up together but I didn't think to do it. It was fixing to start raining again and I hurried back into the house mainly because I didn't want to get my camera wet.

Here's a bunch of photos starting with a pic of the blade before I started murdering the wood:

 

[000Robert]

Here's some photos. I'm not sure how many that I can put in each post. The tip wasn't very pointy to start with if I remember right. I should've took some before photos with my USB microscope, but I didn't. Considering how thin the blade is and that I profiled it to 10dps, I think that the steel held up pretty good. What do yall think?

 

[David Mary]

Wow Robert thank you for such a great test! Are you planning to sharpen back up? If so is there any chance we could see what the edge looks like under the scope after that too? If it's not too much to ask, you've already put a lot of work into this for us so far.

 

[000Robert]

Wow Robert thank you for such a great test! Are you planning to sharpen back up? If so is there any chance we could see what the edge looks like under the scope after that too? If it's not too much to ask, you've already put a lot of work into this for us so far.

Yeah sure. I was going to ask you about that. Do you think that I should up the profile to maybe 13 or 15dps, or keep it at 10dps? I'm not sure if I'm measuring it right or not but I'm only measuring about .0015" behind the edge bevel.
I'm sure the blade would murder some tomatoes and veggies! But I don't want to mess up the nice wrap that Timmy put on her.

 

[David Mary]

Don't hesitate to get the knife dirty and such. Paracord is resistant to the elements, and as long as you dry the knife off well with some air circulation we should not have serious corrosion problems on the steel.

As for edge acuteness, would you believe I always sharpen to 20° per side? The reason they cut well is because of how thin I grind behind the edge. I have found that thin behind the edge, with 20° per side seems to give a good combination of cutting ability and edge durability for the given steel and heat treatment. I would expect the knife do do almost as well on the oak after that as far as ease of cutting, but keep it significantly longer due to a more robust edge.

 

[David Mary]

I'm sure the blade would murder some tomatoes and veggies

Fill your boots eh!

 

[000Robert]

Don't hesitate to get the knife dirty and such. Paracord is resistant to the elements, and as long as you dry the knife off well with some air circulation we should not have serious corrosion problems on the steel.

As for edge acuteness, would you believe I always sharpen to 20° per side? The reason they cut well is because of how thin I grind behind the edge. I have found that thin behind the edge, with 20° per side seems to give a good combination of cutting ability and edge durability for the given steel and heat treatment. I would expect the knife do do almost as well on the oak after that as far as ease of cutting, but keep it significantly longer due to a more robust edge.

It looks like oak to me, but I'm not an expert. It is very hard wood; I can vouch for that! Ok, I'll reprofile it to 20dps and give it a go.

 

[000Robert]

It looks like oak to me, but I'm not an expert. It is very hard wood; I can vouch for that! Ok, I'll reprofile it to 20dps and give it a go.

Also, do you want me to grind the bevels down till the blade has a nice sharp point? And do you think I should stop at 400 grit? I was thinking about taking the next profile to 600 grit.

 

[David Mary]

Also, do you want me to grind the bevels down till the blade has a nice sharp point? And do you think I should stop at 400 grit? I was thinking about taking the next profile to 600 grit.

If you'd like to, by all means go ahead. Truly appreciate all the time you're putting into this!

 

[000Robert]

If you'd like to, by all means go ahead. Truly appreciate all the time you're putting into this!

Ok. My pleasure! Thanks for letting me try to destroy it.

 

[Crag the Brewer]

Adding to the steels performance......
I made a kitchen utility knife for a brewing buddy. He asked me for one.
I had wanted to try something, and he's a good experiment.

I basically gave him only a few rules.
No dishwasher
No throwing
No stabbing into the ground.


I warned him about rusting, and that he should maybe wipe it with food grade oil occasionally. He must of forgot, or didn't listen to me.

I saw him again after a couple weeks, using it constantly since.
Aside from saltwater environments, we can safely say M2 is good enough as far as corrosion resistance. I'd compare it to polished A2. Or better.

When I saw the knife, it was stewing in Apple and peach slop. Remaining in it more than a few hours. I asked about washing, and he normally air dries it. He was surprised by my curiosity and astonishment.
He just assumed kitchen knives don't rust.....
I mentioned Again, it could.


He's cleaned all sorts of meats and produce, including fish.
It just has some tiny amounts of purplish hue one expects from cooked meat, maybe fruit. Overall it looked pretty much like I gave him.

No reason for coatings, no reason for concern (for kitchen use)

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

Well, I found some time between the rain to go outside and take out my frustration on a piece of firewood. I think the wood is Oak because it was some tough stuff. I was going to town on it and my niece exclaimed, "Don't cut your fingers off!". I scraped my knuckle on my right index finger, but it's ok. I didn't baby the blade - I went to town on the wood for about 7 minutes!
Considering that I profiled the edge bevels to 10dps at 400 grit, I think that the steel did a pretty good job. The wood nicked up the edge apex some that can be seen good under magnification. I cut some magazine and printer paper. The blade tried to catch on the paper a little, but it still cut the paper well. At the top left of the cuts on the paper, you can see where I poked the point into the paper and cut it with the tip of the blade.

Edit: Also, I should add that it has been raining and storming here today. It was windy outside between the raining and the wind blew away most of the wood shavings. I should've swept them up together but I didn't think to do it. It was fixing to start raining again and I hurried back into the house mainly because I didn't want to get my camera wet.

Here's a bunch of photos starting with a pic of the blade before I started murdering the wood:

View attachment 1968535View attachment 1968536View attachment 1968537View attachment 1968538View attachment 1968539View attachment 1968540View attachment 1968542View attachment 1968543

that tip is super sharp

for me it EASILY caught in free hanging paper.

glad you got some work on other less forgiving material in.

I think this one would shine at 20dps btw.

 

[Crag the Brewer]

Ok. My pleasure! Thanks for letting me try to destroy it.

I hope once you get it sharp again, we can get a delta 3v cardboard cutoff?
Haha.

 

[tinfoil hat timmy]

I hope once you get it sharp again, we can get a delta 3v cardboard cutoff?
Haha.

you wont be able to cut through nails with it I dont think.

cheese? all day. lead? maybe. Nails? no.

 

[Crag the Brewer]

you wont be able to cut through nails with it I dont think.

cheese? all day. lead? maybe. Nails? no.

I specifically asked cardboard.