Makers: Post pics of your knives.

timos- said:
Horrible photo but here we have a 255mm gyuto in W2, bog oak, nickel silver and cocobolo, Full distal taper on this one...built entirely to customer spec.

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I really like this. :thumbup:
 
josh81 said:
Finished these two up this weekend. .070 Aeb-l, 4 1/2" blade and 9 " overall. One with ironwood and one with redwood burl with red G10 liners.
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Dayum Josh..Yer making them faster than I can respond to how awesome they are!
 
My latest. Medullary ray red oak and ebony handle on 52100 steel. True silver ingot spacer.

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just got my first knife from Murry carter here in portland. seems the perfect size I needed something between my Japanese paring knife and my Chinese cleaver. desert ironwood handle I spent more then I wanted as the other I wanted was 150 and this was 265 but I fell in love with it. since each one is unique and this may be the last kitchen knife I buy. I was going to go pick it up as work was slow because of the weather but they shipped it that day.


just got my first knife from Murry carter here in portland. seems the perfect size I needed something between my Japanese paring knife and my Chinese cleaver. desert ironwood handle I spent more then I wanted as the other I wanted was 150 and this was 265 but I fell in love with it. since each one is unique and this may be the last kitchen knife I buy. I was going to go pick it up as work was slow because of the weather but they shipped it that day.

 
This is the latest work I have on the bench. AEBL at 62, I shortened this one considerably due to some recent requests and comments.
It isn't a paring knife proper at 48 mm height. This is a thin convex grind and 2.5mm spine tapering to the tip.
I thought I would post this up to see what you guys might have to say about it.
It will be wearing an all ironwood handle with a thin fine silver ingot spacer when completed.
I think I could have tapered the spin down to the edge more vs. tapering the edge up to the spin so much.
This will give excellent clearance but the angle may be too much for some. (This may look a little exaggerated due to the camera angle in this pic).
I would really like to hear thoughts about this aspect too.

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It looks alot like a honesuki and I imagine it will be killer breaking down chicken, I think the height at the heel will be nice for board work too, this blade has some major versatility going for it. You may be right about the angle of the handle to edge, you have enough material there in the tang area to adjust this...but, that angle depends so much on the user, it will really be up to the person who uses it.
 
timos- said:
It looks alot like a honesuki and I imagine it will be killer breaking down chicken, I think the height at the heel will be nice for board work too, this blade has some major versatility going for it. You may be right about the angle of the handle to edge, you have enough material there in the tang area to adjust this...but, that angle depends so much on the user, it will really be up to the person who uses it.
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I appreciate your thoughts Tim. I am going to modify the tang to bring the angle down a bit and it will be much better.
 
Here's a knife and fork I did for a local business owner as a gift for her husband. It's W2, 0.095" behind the edge, 10dps. African Blackwood bolster with Claro Walnut Burl.

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[/url]IMG_0681 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]

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[/url]IMG_0578 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Willie that's a beautiful set! Just out of curiosity what kind of heat treat do you do on a fork like that?

Here's my first nakiri I finished up a couple days ago. Well my take on a nakiri I guess. 0.093" 52100 full flat grind to almost zero, ironwood burl, white g10 liners and copper pins.
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The fork is heat treated at 1460, like the knife, but I temper at 500f. There is a small amount of auto hamon, but I didn't do much to bring it out. I've done a few in W2, 1095, 15n20, and even 80crv2. Tempered to 58/59, you can lift a small turkey with the fork without bending or breaking. I use the same steel as the knife just so the colour and patina matches somewhat. Different steels etch and patina differently. W2 and 1095 aren't a perfect choice, but they work fine tempered down a bit.
 
Willie71 said:
The fork is heat treated at 1460, like the knife, but I temper at 500f. There is a small amount of auto hamon, but I didn't do much to bring it out. I've done a few in W2, 1095, 15n20, and even 80crv2. Tempered to 58/59, you can lift a small turkey with the fork without bending or breaking. I use the same steel as the knife just so the colour and patina matches somewhat. Different steels etch and patina differently. W2 and 1095 aren't a perfect choice, but they work fine tempered down a bit.
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Thanks for the reply. I'm going to put a set like that on my to do list. That list just keeps growing lol.

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new one here....2mm thick aebl blade with curly maple saya, buckeye burl, brass, g10, and some Dead Finish from Australia. You could call this either a long petty or a mini suji.
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steve.knight.792 said:
just got my first knife from Murry carter here in portland. seems the perfect size I needed something between my Japanese paring knife and my Chinese cleaver. desert ironwood handle I spent more then I wanted as the other I wanted was 150 and this was 265 but I fell in love with it. since each one is unique and this may be the last kitchen knife I buy. I was going to go pick it up as work was slow because of the weather but they shipped it that day.


just got my first knife from Murry carter here in portland. seems the perfect size I needed something between my Japanese paring knife and my Chinese cleaver. desert ironwood handle I spent more then I wanted as the other I wanted was 150 and this was 265 but I fell in love with it. since each one is unique and this may be the last kitchen knife I buy. I was going to go pick it up as work was slow because of the weather but they shipped it that day.

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There is a lot I like about this knife. Can you give the dimensions?
 
josh81 said:
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to put a set like that on my to do list. That list just keeps growing lol.

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Go with 1/8" to 3/16". 3/32 feels flimsy. I personally like 3/16". Run the tang to 80% the length of the handle, or do a through tang. There's more leverage on the forks than knives,
 
another crappy indoor pic ...I just keep finishing these things at night and need to ship them the next morning. Cant wait to get a half decent picture set up!

Anyway:

1095 and Ironwood....that 1095 sure gets screeeemin' sharp

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