Makers: Post pics of your knives.

Do you make the stands yourself? I want one like this.

The stands are easy to make. It's 2" black walnut cut out on a bandsaw, and the base is 1" black walnut. The knife slots can be routed carefully, or drilled and filed like cutting a guard on a knife.
 
The stands are easy to make. It's 2" black walnut cut out on a bandsaw, and the base is 1" black walnut. The knife slots can be routed carefully, or drilled and filed like cutting a guard on a knife.

What would you charge to make me one?
 
big chopper for bar-b-que. blade is 8" x 4"O1. pic lighted by incandescant light bulbs so everthing is shaded red.
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Cool... What's the grind or blade geometry? How high did you go on the hardness? From the pins it looks like only half tang not full tang? Is this supposed to cut through bone? Looks nice!
 
Cool... What's the grind or blade geometry? How high did you go on the hardness? From the pins it looks like only half tang not full tang? Is this supposed to cut through bone? Looks nice!

5 dps primary with 10dps secondary. Tempered at 400F, so hardness should be Rc61-62, a good place for O1. I used O1 because it was the only steel I had on hand that was big enough. Was 7 days from receipt of order to customer having knife. Half tang with two Corby bolts. It is for chopping cooked pork once it has been taken off the bone. Completed knife was just over one pound.
scott
 
5 dps primary with 10dps secondary. Tempered at 400F, so hardness should be Rc61-62, a good place for O1. I used O1 because it was the only steel I had on hand that was big enough. Was 7 days from receipt of order to customer having knife. Half tang with two Corby bolts. It is for chopping cooked pork once it has been taken off the bone. Completed knife was just over one pound.
scott

Thanks for answering my questions. Sounds like the customer will be quite happy with this knife for its intended purpose. Don't see a lot of custom kitchen cleavers, so this is cool!
 
Not finished yet but here is a suji that will be rehandled and a custom petty in w2 and buckeye burl. Ironwood and black/copper fittings. I may use a little thinner ironwood for an endcap not sure yet.
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Nice kitchen tools guys!

Here is my last one. White #2 and suminagashi.

Blade and wood have very similar pattern… totally accidentally and nice.

Hope you like it.






 
A small slicer/paring knife. 8 1/2" overall length, 3.95" cutting edge, 1 5/8" at widest point. Ultra thin blade, 0.45" at the spine, 0.005 edge, 0.02" 1/4" up, 0.03" 1/2" up. Blade is Starrett O1 at Rc62-63. book matched red oak scales with brass corby bolts, handle is 1" tall, 3/4" thick.

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scott
 
Here's a couple rougher pieces. The top is an old hickory, and it's been well used. The handle crumbled. I used a dyed curly maple bolster, and a Wenge handle. The bottom knife is a knife I made over 2years ago, and never finished. It's ground for a left hand user, and the customer decided to go with a bigger knife. I finished it, and gave it to a left handed friend of mine. Same guy who had me rehandle the top knife. I tried to do a mustard patina on it, but 15n20 resisted the etch. Handle is zebrano.

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[/url]IMG_0375 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Here is a couple I am almost finished with. These are not made to order, just some materials of my own choice :)
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This is what I've been working on these last couple of weeks. It's been a while since I've posted anything. I need better pics I know.

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Finished this skinner the other day.
.130" aeb-l, resin and stabilized cinnamon scales.
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Here's the last one I made for the kitchen:

Specs:
OAL: 12.5"
Blade: 7.5" Distally tapered, combined full flat and convex grinds, hand finished to 600 grit. Heel height 1.9", edge is 0.007" before sharpening. Sharpened to 17 DPS
Steel: 52100 carbon steel, heat treated by Peter's to RC61
Handle: Marbled Cocobolo, black paper micarta handle. Micarta and bronze liners and pins

 
Here's the last one I made for the kitchen:

Specs:
OAL: 12.5"
Blade: 7.5" Distally tapered, combined full flat and convex grinds, hand finished to 600 grit. Heel height 1.9", edge is 0.007" before sharpening. Sharpened to 17 DPS
Steel: 52100 carbon steel, heat treated by Peter's to RC61
Handle: Marbled Cocobolo, black paper micarta handle. Micarta and bronze liners and pins

That's beautiful! I'm always indecisive about plunge lines on my kitchen knives. I really like how yours seems like it just belongs there. Nice work!

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Finished this set today. Both are .070 aeb-l and box elder. I wish the two sets of scales would have been more similar but I'm pleased with how they came out.
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Thanks Josh, I'd say I'm doing more and more plungeless kitchen blades. When I do a plunge I usually shoot for the plunge to be about perpendicular to the spine or a little forward leaning from perpendicular.
 
First time using Damascus from Vegas Forge. It's their Spirograph pattern. It's great stuff! The handle is AZ Desert Ironwood burl and Walrus tusk.

 
First time using Damascus from Vegas Forge. It's their Spirograph pattern. It's great stuff! The handle is AZ Desert Ironwood burl and Walrus tusk.

Wow very nice. That's as classy as it gets.

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