Making the buffer safer

Most of the machinery in my shop(with the exception of my 2x72) is weaker than I am. Meaning, I can stop the motor or spin the drive belt under my own power. Mind you, my machinery is meager, compared to most of you guys but I like it that way. I spent 15years in the tool, die and mold industry, operating machines that could tear me from limb to limb in a blink of an eye. I've witnessed fingers being ripped clean off, broken arms, legs and one death from severe head trauma.

But as strong as I think I am... speed is the enemy. The sudden "snatch" from your hand will get you unless you white knuckle it the whole time. I saw a blacksmith get slapped in the face by a scrolled hook he was wire-wheeling. He was using a 1/4hp motor... something you could stop by grabbing the wheel with a gloved hand. Strength didn't mean squat. Someone mentioned mounting the piece to a wooden jig. That is smart. I also like Pat's guard that addresses the whip-around. I had a 2ft x 3ft high piece of 1/2" plywood that I used to lean up against my gut. It was more to protect my legs and man-hammer from sparks while hogging on the 2x72.
 
^ man hammer hahahahaha :p

I sharpen against a belt (under coolant), edge leading. Edge leading is only a matter of time before trouble. The blade is screwed to a metal bar that hangs from the ceiling with small chain. It gives me more control and some degree of safety when trouble happens
 
My buffing procedure. I don't buff blades, but I do buff handles, and hardware.
1. Lock the door. No one comes in unexpected.
2. Turn off the damn radio. You are going to have to concentrate for a couple of minutes. It hurts, I know.
3. Make sure you are using the right tool. If you are leaning into it to remove 400 grit scratches you are using the wrong tool. Go back to the grinder, or hand sanding.
4. Tighten the nut enough to keep the wheel from wobbling, but not so tight that you can't stop the wheel from turning. this is a buffer, not a grinder.
5. Use only the trailing radius of the wheel. Bottom 2/3's. If you have to buff at the 9 o'clock position be very aware!
6. Hard to explain, but use a very tight grip with a loose elbow. Any catches will swing away from you.
7. Ya gotta be friggin nuts to buff a blade.
 
MadBug said:
My buffing procedure. I don't buff blades, but I do buff handles, and hardware.
1. Lock the door. No one comes in unexpected.
2. Turn off the damn radio. You are going to have to concentrate for a couple of minutes. It hurts, I know.
3. Make sure you are using the right tool. If you are leaning into it to remove 400 grit scratches you are using the wrong tool. Go back to the grinder, or hand sanding.
4. Tighten the nut enough to keep the wheel from wobbling, but not so tight that you can't stop the wheel from turning. this is a buffer, not a grinder.
5. Use only the trailing radius of the wheel. Bottom 2/3's. If you have to buff at the 9 o'clock position be very aware!
6. Hard to explain, but use a very tight grip with a loose elbow. Any catches will swing away from you.
7. Ya gotta be friggin nuts to buff a blade.
Click to expand...

Good suggestions above.

I'll probably get slammed pretty hard for this, but I don't use a guard and don't prescribe using a guard on a buffer. Of course I haven't buffed knives as many times and for long as some of the people who have replied, but . . .

Still, you hear these incidents and it seems that each time most of the people were admittedly not paying absolute attention to the potential problem ahead and that they were also positioning themselves in "the line of fire".

Please don't consider the use chain-mail, get yourself out of the line of fire. :)

I make a strong conscious point to myself every time that I approach the buffer to not position myself such that a snagged blade will hit me in the torso or main appendages. I get very cautiously nervous each time. I stand as far to the side as feasible. At worst, my hand will get severely damaged if the blade swings a full 360 degrees around the grinder and impacts me there. I have not had this (yet). Hopefully this is due to absolute attention.

There is also a very bad potential result from guarding. Should the hand be taken into the guard with the knife, the result can easily be the same or worse. In the guard shown in this thread, there is nothing to say that Patrice's hand won't travel 2/3 of a rotation before he is able to let go if the work-piece. At 1800 rpm this is 0.02 seconds) In this case his hand is well-broken, at best . . . and I’d rather have my hand dragged through a 2/3 rotation in 0.02 seconds in free air, rather than having a metal-edged guard with major pinch points on the reverse side waiting for it in the end. . .

The benefits and downfalls of guarding are a continual debate in the machine tool business, and won’t be fully resolved here.

In the end, do your best to protect yourself and be careful, but be very aware of how guards can be worse than the alternative in many cases.
 
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Is it out of the question to stand off to the side and turn 90deg?(I guess it would be easier just to rotate the buffer 90deg on the table... lol) Aside from your hand, you would completely remove your body from the line of fire. I don't buff... so go easy on me.
 
Jason, good point about the lexan, I did not even think about that.

You all have very valid points guys. I am glad that this is encouraging discussion and that you are sharing your way to do it. All makes it a little bit safer if people will listen.

Logem, I hear what you are saying about getting a hand (glove or not) trapped there. I still think it is less of a possibility than a piece being thrown but it is good to be aware of the potential danger just the same. I guess here I am choosing the lesser of two evil and as bad as a maimed hand (or limb) is, this was done to protect against the most dangerous which is upper body/head traumatic injury.

Rick, while standing to the side would get you partially out of the way, you'd have to be buffing with your arms pretty extended to be completely out of the path wouldn't you?
 
A small update on this one.

Following somebody's recommendation (sorry, forgot who :o) I bought a varaible speed bench grinder from Lowe's. Not fully variable, only takes it down to 2000 rpm and although this is still plenty fast to hurt you bad, is still feels a lot better than 3450 rpm. Made an arbor extension for it and voila!

buffer_shield_final1.JPG


With the shield down

buffer_shield_final2.JPG


I think it's looks pretty good and will do what it is suppose to, God forbid something were to happen. Of course being careful is still my first line of defense.

Bought some LEXAN to maybe add some kind of face shield when I get time to work on it.

buffer_shield_final3.JPG


I'll update if I do. And while I was at it, I replace the acrylic face shield on the lathe with the same 3/32 thick Lexan.

buffer_shield_final4.JPG


Thanks for looking.
 
Those belt grinders with 80 grit belts can eat skin like a shark!
Grinding dust is very bad to breathe.
Sharpened knives can cut or stab you.
Hot steel can burn you.
A forge fire can burn your shop down.
A sleeve caught in a lathe chuck-well, you get the idea...
Come on guys! People have been polishing blades for hundreds of years. It's no more unsafe than any practice in the shop.
Just learn how to do it properly. There is no more reason to fear a buffer than any other power tool. It takes practice-just like grinding a blade. Once you have it figured out, you'll be amazed at how simple it really is.
 
And, to think-some of you think nothing about making knives with an angle grinder!:eek:
 
Sign over my shop door:
Everything in this shop is-
Too sharp
Too hot
Too heavy
Too loud
Too rough
 
Bill, you've said something to that effect before. This is to try and prevent accidents that still happen no matter how experienced or careful you are. Is trying to make our working environment safer such a bad thing? Lots of things can hurt us in the shop so we should forgo all safety devices and rely solely on our experience? I don't agree.

I promise I am not trying to go install one in your shop my friend. ;) Let it go.
 
Patrice-
As I have said before- rigid guards on buffers can get you hurt. I don't think you can even buy a commercial buffer with a guard. Now, I don't WANT to see you get hurt.
A very good solution is to use medium or hard felt wheels. These don't "grab" as much as looser wheels. They feel like grinding on a contact wheel.
 
I'd rather use the plasma cutter wearing sandals than buff anything other than round.
 
Thanks Bill, I know that you are doing this out of concern. I still think that the way I have it set up now with all the advices I got here, the guard would help prevent injury not cause it.

I will take a look at those felt wheels though. Anything that minimizes the risk is good. :thumbup: Thanks.
 
Felt wheels will also polish brighter than loose buffs.
 
I also use felt wheels, be aware they generate a bit more heat. But heat generation still mean improper and dangerous technique.
 
Why you do not just tie thick paracord to knife and the other end to something heavy on the floor?
 
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