Martin WSK style 1st attempt

HMartin

HMartin

Joined
May 1, 2007
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54
Thought I would post pics of our first try at a Beck WSK styled knife. It is 1095 carbon steel with a differential heat treat. The handle scales are black micarta, and the knife has been blued. We learned a lot on this knife, and will make a few changes if we do more. Mainly on the sawteeth. Would this style be better without teeth? Or do folks put them to use? I guess it could be an option. This knife is full sized, and I wonder if a slightly smaller and lighter version would useful, or would it lose something when reduced? Feedback from folks that use this style of knife would be great.

Thanks everyone,

Hank
 

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That looks great, real nice !

I think the saw teeth depends on how good they are, I have heard the ones on the TOPS WSK are pretty good and so can be used for notching wood when making traps etc.
I would have to use one before I could give a definative answer.
 
I was talking with Ed about A2 yesterday. Need to do a little experimenting with it as we have never used it. It is also more costly, so I don't know how that would play out.

Hank
 
Come on Hank..........hook a brother up :D It's me we're talking about. You make it, I'll test it and give you my honest feedback.......It is a win win situation ;)

cerberus
 
One of the failings of the RedScorpion6's saw is that it binds. If the saw can be made not to bind, then it would be an improvement over that version anyway.
 
I like the original size..maybe a bit more wieght in the front actually..a small one seems silly, as my 4" knife can handle the small work..I just want the axe to work for me..and a big wide axe can be used as a handle when using the draw knife. To get the 2 handed action. I like the saw..just for notches, but if it didnt have them...I wouldnt mind, alot of people claim they get in the way when batoning. Yours looks Awesome..shoot me a PM, if you dont want to list prices here. Gene
 
I have always liked your MA5 "Drevenak Attack".
I may order one some time this summer.
How long is your waiting list?
 
Depending on price..I want to be at the front of the line..Gene:D

Oh..are they flat grinds or convex? Gene
 
Hank, that came out beautiful. :thumbup:I'll take one. Also, I would like to see one made with A2 steel and Parrish style sawteeth (like below) Or even Randall's style teeth. And please keep them out of the edge grind like you done with that WSK. Some makers run the teeth to close to the point or to deep in cut ...the point is just waiting to break off with hard wilderness use. Are you going to produce it? and at what cost? That one looks real good!

Jules


8e26_3.jpg
 
Hey guys. Thanks for the response and feedback. I will get some detailed info out to you guys asap. As far as the grinds, this one is flat ground up front and the second section near the hilt is hollow ground. When it comes to final sharpening, I guess we could do a convex edge if that is what is wanted. We have not tried it, so I guess I better do a little experimenting before I make any promises.

Westllen, thanks for that photo. That is a great shot of those teeth. My brother, Ed, cut the teeth on this proto by hand with a file, and it was quite a project. We think we have a better system worked out, and will need to give it a try. We have been wanting to see a shot of the Parrish style teeth as we have heard they perform really well. Again, thanks.

Troop, thanks for the link. I will give him a call tomorrow.

Hank Martin
 
I think It looks freakin' great! I don't know that A2 would be a noticeable improvement. FYI, the saw teeth on the WSK design bind because they are only designed to penetrate about .5 inch deep for notching. Not for lumberjack work. Carry a pack saw.
The Flat No Saw version has been extremely popular. A lot of guys have requested some re-profiled versions with the Saw back removed and rounded the back spine.

BTW we tried the smaller version and noticed that the performance degraded to the point that it was simply a cool looking knife without real function. The way the design works is partially around the size that makes it work. I would rather stay with Fit, Form and Function. I don't care too much about the coolness in sacrificing the function.

Keep on keeping on, Mr Martin looks great. Can't wait to see the companion knife for it.
 
Very nice!! I say keep the saw though. They are great when they are done right.

shane
 
Thanks Aaron, great info. It's awesome to be in a vocation where folks are willing to help each other out!

I guess we should do some sort of companion blade. Need to do a little research on what would work best.

Hank
 
One other thing I find sawbacks useful for is cutting small branches (say, an inch or maybe two inches, max) in situations where bending and batonning aren't options. Classic example: I want to make a bow. For this, I want a piece of wood about the right size, with as few knots as possible. I'd love a sapling, but if I don't happen across one immediately, I may have to make do with a branch. These grow high in trees, so I have to climb. If I'm up in a tree, I can't very well hold on with one hand, hold the knife in another hand, and wield the baton with my third hand. For applications like that (and any others where you want to minimize splitting of the wood), I've found that the saw teeth on the back of an Air Force survival knife (or even a Navy Mk. 3) work passably well. Likewise for notching wood. As to the objection I've heard that saw teeth mess up one's baton, I've always wondered why anyone cared. ("Well, he died of exposure and hunger--but his BATON is only slightly bruised!")
 
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