Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
R. W. :
Because that is the standard most will be familiar with.
Actually you have stated the opposite many times, for example that it clearly outperformed O1 in regards to edge retention on cardboard. You also support the idea that the durablity issues would also be expected with steel, implying there is no durabliity disadvantage to having a much lower charpy value and tensile strength.
your above quote :
again pushes the idea that it can easily handle work a steel knife can.
The amusing thing about this viewpoint is the irony regarding bias. Look at the above comments on the Model 10. For edge retention it was compared mainly to a SAK and a few other knives, no Busse*. It was compared to two Swamp Rats for other work, some of which it did significantly better than them, some of which it didn't, pretty much the same for any knife in any review.
[*I intend to use the Howling Rat for the carpet cutting and hemp rope eventually, it is just very boring after you have done it with a few knives]
I don't think anyone is debating the point that it will excell in those areas. The high corrosion resistance is actually mentioned in the review. If you want to provide a list of some of this properties with some actual materials information I will include that in the review.
Because I am Jerry Busse - duh.
On testing and pictures, I have done this on occasion, and mainly don't for a couple of reasons, first off all there are space issues, but second pictures can often overpower words. If I say for example the knife broke off 1/4" of tip while digging in woods, or show a video of the knife breaking while digging in woods, the latter can often give a much worse impression than the numbers. This is why in retrospect I would not have shown some of the break pictures I had in the reviews as often that is all people end up taking from it. Videos would be even worse in this respect I would think.
I so think videos are very valuable in some respects, Dan for example does excellent work in this regard. Check out his posts in the HI forum. Videos would really help to clarify technique and give meaning to descriptions like dig aggressively, or use a baton with heavy force, even if the force of impacts is estimated, which isn't difficult, a video would be a lot more helpful than noting 50 ft.lbs or whatever.
Actually what I said was that I could *kill* any maker I like (I am a CIA trained assassin, my primary focus was the elimination of columbian drug lords, however my cover was blown and now I am in hiding, Cliff Stamp is a very clever alias for my true name [Dave "Crazy Weasal" O'Reily]) and take over their identity.
I have already done this with several makers, Busse for one. Ever wonder how he got such a lovely wife? That is because I am him and I am far more physically appealing, all the images you see are just heavily photo shopped, at live shows that is just me in a busse body suit [it gets hell for hot in there which is why all the beer drinking].
You should try to be accurate with your quotes R.W. especially when you are promoting "scientific" methods.
Roadrunner :
I have tried many Cobalt variants, and no I don't have any now. This is one of the reasons I used the SAK as it was the most stainless blade I have. I think a real interesting comparison would be a 420HC blade with a quality heat treatment.
Wilson gets 54/55 HRC with 0.5% carbon, oil quench and deep cryogenics. This is a very corrosion resistant, and very tough stainless steel. That would be where I would go if I wanted high rust resistance in a using knife.
A number of makers have compared various Cobalt alloys to LM1. Carson, Simonich and Tichbourne have all made public statements. Based on what I have seen I would support them as being generally better. Talonite and Stellite 6K are a lot more ductile and not as fragile.
LM1 does seem to take an edge better than the Cobalt alloys, I remember burrs being a problem with them, however my sharpening skills have improved and I may just be seeing the influence of that.
Featherstone :
Clark is the one supporting this knife in writing as having no restrictions in use compared to a steel blade. He specifically claims that it can't be broken in hand, and can take aggressive digging in woods. He promotes the knife as as "one knife" only tool.
Back to the knife :
With the 22 degree fine ceramic edge bevel, the Model 10 was used to chop through a half a dozen pieces of 1x4 (there were not actually 1x4 just pieces of wood roughly that size). Most of the wood was clean, there were a couple of knots, one large and brittle. The wood was rather soft (no hard woods just stock lumber) so the pentration was high, about a half an inch or more. It easily chewed through the wood, however was as noted uncomfortable in a partial grip due to the slope of the end hook.
After the chopping the knife was used on some light vegetation, grasses and such it was still able to cut the heads off of individual stalks of grass (hay). When checked under magnification (x20) the chipping was evident as before but much reduced in magnitude, which you would expect given that the angle was increased. The chips were now mainly 1 mm to 1.5 mm at maximum in depth (so 0.05 to 0.075 mm not magnifiied). Based on this, I would estimate that with the origional microbevel of 22+ degrees you would need a better steroscope to even see them.
-Dave
Cliff, why are you compairing it to a steel knife?
Because that is the standard most will be familiar with.
If you had bothered to read ANY of my writings or interviews I have clearly stated that in most testing it does not compair to high quality steel blades.
Actually you have stated the opposite many times, for example that it clearly outperformed O1 in regards to edge retention on cardboard. You also support the idea that the durablity issues would also be expected with steel, implying there is no durabliity disadvantage to having a much lower charpy value and tensile strength.
your above quote :
Treat is as you would any other material ...
again pushes the idea that it can easily handle work a steel knife can.
Look how a Busse product outperformed another knife.
The amusing thing about this viewpoint is the irony regarding bias. Look at the above comments on the Model 10. For edge retention it was compared mainly to a SAK and a few other knives, no Busse*. It was compared to two Swamp Rats for other work, some of which it did significantly better than them, some of which it didn't, pretty much the same for any knife in any review.
[*I intend to use the Howling Rat for the carpet cutting and hemp rope eventually, it is just very boring after you have done it with a few knives]
How about sea spray testing, or acid exposure testing, or magnetic signature testing or any other number of aras that LM1 knives are designed to excell.
I don't think anyone is debating the point that it will excell in those areas. The high corrosion resistance is actually mentioned in the review. If you want to provide a list of some of this properties with some actual materials information I will include that in the review.
Why have we never seen photos of his tesing lab?
Because I am Jerry Busse - duh.
On testing and pictures, I have done this on occasion, and mainly don't for a couple of reasons, first off all there are space issues, but second pictures can often overpower words. If I say for example the knife broke off 1/4" of tip while digging in woods, or show a video of the knife breaking while digging in woods, the latter can often give a much worse impression than the numbers. This is why in retrospect I would not have shown some of the break pictures I had in the reviews as often that is all people end up taking from it. Videos would be even worse in this respect I would think.
I so think videos are very valuable in some respects, Dan for example does excellent work in this regard. Check out his posts in the HI forum. Videos would really help to clarify technique and give meaning to descriptions like dig aggressively, or use a baton with heavy force, even if the force of impacts is estimated, which isn't difficult, a video would be a lot more helpful than noting 50 ft.lbs or whatever.
Did you know that he was once quoted as saying that he could destroy any maker that he did not like?
Actually what I said was that I could *kill* any maker I like (I am a CIA trained assassin, my primary focus was the elimination of columbian drug lords, however my cover was blown and now I am in hiding, Cliff Stamp is a very clever alias for my true name [Dave "Crazy Weasal" O'Reily]) and take over their identity.
I have already done this with several makers, Busse for one. Ever wonder how he got such a lovely wife? That is because I am him and I am far more physically appealing, all the images you see are just heavily photo shopped, at live shows that is just me in a busse body suit [it gets hell for hot in there which is why all the beer drinking].
You should try to be accurate with your quotes R.W. especially when you are promoting "scientific" methods.
Roadrunner :
Maybe Cliff doesn't have any blades in those materials on hand...
I have tried many Cobalt variants, and no I don't have any now. This is one of the reasons I used the SAK as it was the most stainless blade I have. I think a real interesting comparison would be a 420HC blade with a quality heat treatment.
Wilson gets 54/55 HRC with 0.5% carbon, oil quench and deep cryogenics. This is a very corrosion resistant, and very tough stainless steel. That would be where I would go if I wanted high rust resistance in a using knife.
A number of makers have compared various Cobalt alloys to LM1. Carson, Simonich and Tichbourne have all made public statements. Based on what I have seen I would support them as being generally better. Talonite and Stellite 6K are a lot more ductile and not as fragile.
LM1 does seem to take an edge better than the Cobalt alloys, I remember burrs being a problem with them, however my sharpening skills have improved and I may just be seeing the influence of that.
Featherstone :
I will say this when I buy a knife I ask the maker on what he designed the knife to do and how it will function at certain task and what are its limits.
Clark is the one supporting this knife in writing as having no restrictions in use compared to a steel blade. He specifically claims that it can't be broken in hand, and can take aggressive digging in woods. He promotes the knife as as "one knife" only tool.
Back to the knife :
With the 22 degree fine ceramic edge bevel, the Model 10 was used to chop through a half a dozen pieces of 1x4 (there were not actually 1x4 just pieces of wood roughly that size). Most of the wood was clean, there were a couple of knots, one large and brittle. The wood was rather soft (no hard woods just stock lumber) so the pentration was high, about a half an inch or more. It easily chewed through the wood, however was as noted uncomfortable in a partial grip due to the slope of the end hook.
After the chopping the knife was used on some light vegetation, grasses and such it was still able to cut the heads off of individual stalks of grass (hay). When checked under magnification (x20) the chipping was evident as before but much reduced in magnitude, which you would expect given that the angle was increased. The chips were now mainly 1 mm to 1.5 mm at maximum in depth (so 0.05 to 0.075 mm not magnifiied). Based on this, I would estimate that with the origional microbevel of 22+ degrees you would need a better steroscope to even see them.
-Dave